A subsidiary of the Canadian Pacific Railway, the Kettle Valley Railway operated in the Thompson-Okanagan region of British Columbia, and provided a much needed rail link to the coast and Vancouver for the cities of Southern BC. The line initially opened in 1915, however portions of the railway were abandoned as early as 1961 due to washouts and a decline in traffic. All rail service stopped from Midway to Penticton, through the Okanagan and the famed Myra Canyon section of the line, in 1973, with the final segments of line falling into disuse in 1989. Today much of the railroad’s original route has been converted into a recreational trail, known as the Kettle Valley Rail Trail. With its relatively gentle grade, the line has become a hiker and cyclist haven.

Featuring 18 trestles and 2 tunnels that traverse the deep canyon, the Myra Canyon section of the Kettle Valley Railway not only one of the most impressive parts of this historic railway line, it’s also easily accessible from the city of Kelowna, BC – a major hub in the Okanagan region – making it an ideal daytrip for locals and visitors alike. The area was also designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 2002.

From downtown Kelowna, the Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park is a short 25 minute drive up into the surrounding hillside through rolling vineyards and past several amazing lookout points. The road is partially paved, while the last eight kilometers are grated dirt road and quite rugged. As such, a vehicle with a higher clearance is recommended (our SUV worked well). Although we did see many cars make the trip, slower driving is a must to ensure you don’t bottom out on some of the bigger potholes. As for signage, the road is clearly marked with blue signs directing visitors to the Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park and making navigation simple.

Upon arrival at Myra-Bellevue we had a decision to make, pull into the first park entrance (West) or deal with the dirt road for a few more kilometers to access the second entrance (East). We opted for the East entrance, only because I vaguely recalled a recommendation in my pre-trip research. This worked well as there are numerous wooden trestles immediately upon entering the trail from this end. The East parking lot is also quite large, making it the best bet for peak-season summer visitors. In the end either entrance will get you into the park, so it’s not something to really worry about too much. Don’t panic if you see the entrance signs and don’t know what to do, either option will get you to your goal.

With numerous trestles, tunnels, and some incredible views of Kelowna and the surrounding hillside, the park is incredibly scenic and there is always something to grab your attention. For me, the dry, desert sections of the trail felt like I was pedaling through the Wild West, and the wooden trestles only elevated this sensation.

In August 2003, lightning sparked a fire in the nearby mountainside. The fire grew rapidly in strength and size and engulfed many portions of the Kettle Valley Railway between Penticton and McCulloch Lake. When the fire was extinguished over a month later, 12 of the 18 trestles within Myra Canyon were lost, as well as countless homes in the area. The B.C provincial government announced that it would rebuild the damaged and destroyed trestles and bridges, a process that took the better part of a year and saw additional safety improvements undertaken as well. The trestles have since been completed and the trail is fully open to the public. Despite the reconstruction evidence of the fire is still visible, with many badly charred trees still standing, slowly being overtaken by new growth along the forest floor.

For some reason, prior to our visit, I was under the impression that the trail was 8km in length (16 km round trip) however after cycling for an hour or so we realized this portion of the Kettle Valley Railway stretches for 12km between the park’s East and West entrances, making for a 24 km round trip. Although quite a bit longer than we had bargained for, we were still able to finish the loop in two and a half hours of cycling – which includes more than a few interruptions to stop and take photos. I’d recommend that new visitors allow 3-4 hours to cycle the trail, and 6-7 to walk. However by no means do you have to complete the entire loop to have a great experience. Entering from the east, it’s possible to cover multiple trestles and the first of two tunnels in only a few kilometers, making it a good option for those under tight time constraints. Alternatively, using a shuttle service or a friend from the area, entering from one end and getting picked up at the other would eliminate the need to turn around and backtrack.

As the trail incorporates the same path the old railway lines once laid on, the ride (or hike) only consists of a 4% grade in the steepest sections, and this makes for a very pleasant bike ride. It also means that the trail is perfect for people of any biking level – we saw everyone from kids to seniors making the ride.

Regardless of how you plan to take on the Myra Canyon trail, the trestles and tunnels, combined with the stunning scenery, are incredibly unique and unlike anything else you’ll see in the world. As far as day trips go, this is one you won’t soon forget.

Logistics: As a provincial park, entrance to Myra-Bellevue is free. Bike rentals are available at the East entrance. The park has a few pit-style outhouse toilets as well as a number of benches scattered along the trail which are great for a rest or picnic lunch. Due to the park’s high elevation, the temperature here tends to be a few degrees cooler than in the city, therefore dressing in layers is recommended.  Visitors should pack plenty of water as it’s easy to get dehydrated while hiking or biking. The best time to visit the park is during the warm summer months from midway through June until September. To keep up to date on closures and events in the park visit the BC Parks website. 

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Be still my beating heart! A little friend we met along the way.

We were extremely excited about getting out and doing some hiking, and although the weather didn’t always feel like cooperating (such are the perils of traveling in the off-season), we still managed to spend three of our five days trekking gracefully and not-so-gracefully through this unique terrain.

Goreme Open Air Museum

While not technically a hiking area, we would be remiss if we didn’t mention the Goreme Open Air Museum. At it’s core, the museum is simply a fenced off portion featuring the best preserved of the 11th to 13th century cave churches. Many of the churches still feature stunning frescoes and exquisitely preserved wall carvings inside.

One of the cave churches showing the carvings around the entrance

The colourful frescoes inside

We had heard a few negative reviews about the site – mainly having to do with the small area, lack of toilets, and the fairly steep entry fee (15 TL). As we were there on a weekday in the off-season, many of these were non-issues for us. There was one tour bus in the parking and probably only 50 people in the whole site.

Another one of the cave churches

Red and Rose Valley

Probably our favorite hiking trail winds its way through the appropriately named Red and Rose Valleys. Containing countless ancient cave homes for the intrepid adventurer to explore, and set in a valley with colours reminiscent of the US Southwest, this region is a hiker’s dream.

The amazing rock formations in the valley

Cave homes to explore

We spent almost an entire day exploring this area. There are some general paths marked by a combination of trail markers and spray paint, but our enjoyment came from the freedom to explore wherever looked interesting to us. Plus, we made a canine friend in Goreme that decided we were worthy companions and joined us for our entire trip!

The view towards Uchisar Castle from Red Valley

The Red and Rose Valley hike traditionally starts near the Open Air Museum and ends at the nearby city of Cavusin. However, on our particular afternoon, some of the most ominous rain clouds we’ve ever seen started to thunder their way down the valley towards us and we decided to stop about 1km short of Cavusin and follow the main highway back to Goreme, just barely avoiding the impending storm by a few minutes!

The origin of the names, Red and Rose Valley, comes from the amazing colour of the cliffs

Love Valley

Oh Love Valley, the place where inappropriate travel photos come to life. Best known for its, um, “phallic” shaped columns – this is one of the most unique places to hike in the world. That is, if you don’t almost kill yourselves trying to get there (more on that in a later post, but let’s just say you should stick to the roads and paths and not take a shortcut over the ridges).

Love Valley – you can probably guess where the name came from!

Located just a short walk from Goreme, Love Valley is just one in a series of wonderful hiking valleys. Other than the hot air balloon pictures, this valley is probably the most common sight in a Google image search for Cappadocia.

The phallic columns of Love Valley

We spent about half a day exploring Love Valley and the surrounding area – taking funny photos and giggling all the while. It is definitely a place that will bring out your inner child. The hiking in this series of valleys is straightforward and very easy going.

Love valley makes for an easy and interesting hike

Funny pictures are an inevitability!

Around Goreme

If you don’t fancy committing to a longer day, or you aren’t sure the weather is going to hold for long enough, there are some absolutely amazing hikes to do simply by walking to the edges of Goreme. Hiking in the hills, or in one of the nearby valleys (Pigeon, Zemi, etc), can provide you with memories you will never forget. Plus, you can just wander back to town for a tea or some gozleme (aka Turkish Pancakes) whenever you want!

A rainbow just outside Goreme

 No matter how long you are in the region, hiking is one of the things you should make time to do. The landscapes in Cappadocia are truly one-of-a-kind and the hiking is generally straightforward and not very strenuous. As with most hiking, we would not recommend going it alone (especially if you are a female), and always ask your hosts about the areas you are heading to before taking off – many have wonderful insights and are extremely helpful. We also recommend not straying too far from hiking trails and be aware of stray dogs (the vast majority are friendly, but you can never be too sure!). 

Logistics: Hiking is one of the best FREE things to do in Cappadocia. The only place with an entrance fee is the Goreme Open Air Museum (15TL per person). Sometimes the best way to get to a hiking region may be taking a dolmus (i.e. dolmus up and hike back). Just ask your hosts or at the bus station and someone will point you in the right direction!

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There are not enough hours in the day or adjectives in the English language to explain our first ride in a hot air balloon. It is by far one of my favorite travel moments.  Having hiked through Cappadocia’s famous valleys only the day before, up close to the mind bending rock formations and cave homes, the hot air balloon offered an extremely special and unique perspective of these same sights. Floating silently overhead – just a tiny speck in the air – the world unfolded before us and it was breathtaking.

5:30 AM – Normally a time only reserved for sleep talking and (accidental) blanket stealing, our day got off to an early start as we were picked up from our guesthouse just after 5:30am. With so much anticipation for this experience, we hadn’t actually slept much the night before.

5:56 AM – After making the rounds to pick up the other participants that would join our balloon tour, we arrived at the main office. With a quick swipe of our credit card, there was no turning back and we grabbed a cup of tea to warm up while we waited to depart.

6:01 AM – It is finally time to get the show on the road! We board our designated minibus and make the short journey through Goreme to a field just outside of town. We can see a dozen of partially inflated balloons!

6:10 AM – Watching the balloons inflate via huge intermittent bursts of flame is VERY cool.

6:13 AM – Our balloon pilot introduces himself as Mike and instructs us to climb into the basket. Divided into quarters, four people climb awkwardly into each section, making us a group of 16. Climbing into the basket wasn’t as difficult as I thought – getting out would later prove to be a different story.

6:15 AM – From our position inside the basket, we can see other balloons rising overhead and cannot wait to join them!

6:17 AM – Mike runs through the basic safety information, including how to brace for a hard landing. We both think of our parents, glad they are busily going about their lives halfway around the world, unaware of what we are currently doing. As it turns out, safety tip #1 is to stay in the basket, who’d of thought?

6:20 AM – Our balloon gently lifts off the ground, only a few inches at first but we are officially flying!

6:30 AM – We join the other balloons suspended over Goreme. Everywhere we look more and more balloons are taking off to join us. Mike explains that due to poor weather over the past two days, many balloon trips were delayed until today. As a result, peak-season numbers of balloons will be flying this morning!

6:35 AM – I have already taken what feels like a hundred pictures.

6:45 AM – We make our way over Cappadocia’s Open Air Museum and are treated to seeing this site, admission free, from the sky.

6:55 AM – Travis gently reminds me to put the camera down for a minute and enjoy the moment. The view all around us is breathtaking.

7:10 AM – Our balloon is lifting higher and higher into the air.

7:15 AM – Over two kilometers above the ground below, we can make out some the small towns in this region, including Goreme, Ortahisar, and Uchisar.

7:20 AM – Dropping in altitude, we make our way over the small town of Ortahisar. It’s impossible to miss the town’s  90m high rock fortress.

7:25 AM – While not the classic definition of beautiful, surrounded by small rock-cut homes, narrow streets, and dozens of hovering balloons, the fortress is completely mesmerizing.

7:30 AM – A game of tag has begun between our balloon, still floating through the sky, and the trucks below, trying to anticipate where we will land.

7:32 AM – The trucks crisscross dirt roads and farmland to get into position for our landing. Mike informs us that, as the winds have just picked up, we will need to get into position for a hard landing.

7:33 AM – We brace for landing as our balloon touches down in a field. Although a bit jerky, the basket doesn’t tip over and the landing is a success!

7:34 AM – A company truck and trailer pull alongside our balloon and we are directed to stay inside the basket. With a burst of hot air, Mike gently lifts the balloon onto the trailer while employees of the balloon company guide it into position – much easier than manually lifting the basket onto the trailer!

7:35 AM – It’s time to “disembasket”; however, climbing out is much more awkward than climbing in.

7:36 AM – As graceless as we may have looked getting out of the basket, we didn’t fall and are counting that as a win.

7:38 AM – Cake is passed and champagne opened as we celebrate our successful flight! Mike hands out certificates of completion as the balloon is packed away.

7:47 AM – As the adrenalin pumping through our bodies slows, fatigue hits and we realize it isn’t even eight o’clock in the morning yet. We load into a minibus and head for our warm beds in Goreme.

7:59 AM – Being the first to be picked up in the morning finally pays off, and we are the first to be dropped back off!

8:00 AM – We crawl under the covers in our warm cave room – breakfast won’t be served for another 30 minutes!

Clearly each and every moment of our hot-air balloon adventure was wonderful, but we hope this provides a bit of insight into our adventure as it unfolded. While riding in a hot-air balloon anywhere would be amazing, Cappadocia’s surreal landscapes really added to our experience, making it all the more unique. Although this experience was expensive, especially for a couple of cheap budget-conscious travelers like ourselves, in the end it was more than worth it.

Logistics: Dozens of hot-air balloon operators are based in Cappadocia. Although your accommodation will likely recommend one or two operators that they work with, we suggest doing some research before signing up. In the end, we rode with Butterfly Balloons in part due to a recommendation from our hotel, as well as their glowing reviews online, good safety record, and small basket sizes (as they focus on individual bookings rather than large tour groups). Although a few dollars can be saved between operators, we wanted to ensure our trip would be memorable and were therefore willing to pay for a quality experience.    

A hot air balloon ride had been on our bucket list for a long time…is it on yours? Let us know in the comments!

The post The Ride of our Lives appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

Having now spent more than 6 weeks in all but two of the former countries that made up Yugoslavia (sorry Macedonia and Kosovo!), we felt is was high time we articulated our favorite experiences from this often overlooked region of the world. While not as popular as Southeast Asia or Central America, the entire Balkan region provides diverse history and culture at a fraction of the cost of Western Europe (we averaged $94/day total for 2 people, and we didn’t scrimp on comfort or meals out).

So without further ado, here is our list of the most unforgettable experiences we had in the Balkan region (in no particular order):

Witnessing the spectacular views from Dubrovnik’s Old Town Walls

Hiking the Old Town Walls is perhaps the quintessential Dubrovnik experience. The same structures that once provided protection for the city now provide visitors with some of the most amazing views around. Get there early to avoid the crowds!

Surviving the Eternal Derby in Belgrade

Attending (and surviving) the Eternal Derby between Red Star and Partizan in Belgrade was probably one of the most thrilling things we’ve ever done while traveling. From the noise to the flares to the fires in the stands, this was not your mother’s North American sporting event.

Hearing the call to prayer for the first time in Sarajevo

Sarajevo (and most of Bosnia for that matter) is an exotic departure from the rest of Europe. Coming from British Columbia, where Muslims constitute less than 2% of the population, hearing the call to prayer from our open window in Sarajevo for the first time was  a surreal experience – and one we will not soon forget.

Hiking through Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice has it all, crystal clear turquoise lakes teeming with fish, countless waterfalls, beautiful wooden walkways and bridges, and hundreds of kilometers of hiking trails. It is truly one of the most beautiful national parks we’ve ever been to – and we live in British Columbia!

Stuffing ourselves with fresh seafood on the Adriatic Coast

One of the best things about traveling through the Adriatic towns in Montenegro, Croatia, and Slovenia was the abundance and affordability of seafood. Fresh fish and squids are available nearly everywhere along the coast, and you can easily get more than you can eat for less than $10.

Getting lost in Sarajevo’s Baščaršija

Sarajevo’s old Ottoman market (or Baščaršija) is unlike any other market you are likely to see in Europe. Built in the 15th century, the marketplaces contains a maze of wooden shops selling everything from traditional Turkish coffee pots to tourist souvenirs. Be sure to fill your water up at the fountain in the courtyard of the 16th century Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque.

Exploring Lake Bled and the Vintgar Gorge

From the moment we put Slovenia into our plans we knew that Lake Bled was going to be a must-see place – and it didn’t disappoint. However, what we didn’t expect was to find one of the most beautiful little parks we’ve ever set foot in, the Vintgar Gorge.

Discovering Ancient Cities along the Bay of Kotor

The UNESCO-listed Natural and Culturo-Historical Region of Kotor is one of the most dramatic locations in all of the Balkans. A place with something for everyone, this region of Montenegro has everything from hiking and kayaking to walled cities and island churches. If that wasn’t enough, the bay is breathtakingly beautiful.

Kayaking the crystal blue waters of the Adriatic

A spur of the moment email to a young tour company based out of Split, Croatia ended up providing us with one of the most fun adventures we had in the whole region. Spending a day  seeing the city from the sea is a completely different experience, and one we would wholeheartedly recommend.

Learning about the history of Yugoslavia throughout the region

One of the things that we found most prevalent among the incredibly friendly people we met throughout the Balkans was their openness in talking about the wars and the breakup of Yugoslavia. From tour guides to our hosts to people we met in trains, everyone was willing to share their stories of the war times with us – and we were more than happy to listen and learn about such an important subject (and one we knew relatively little about before visiting!).

So there you have it…our favorites from the Balkan region. Have you ever been to any of these countries? What did we miss?

Sharing this post over at Chasing the Donkey – check out all the submissions for some great travel inspiration!

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A forgotten vodka bottle overlooking the central courtyard

Vines beginning to take back the buildings

What was once a gymnasium

Paint peeling staircase

 

Three buildings in total make up the site, each featuring the remains of the lovely architecture characteristic of the time-period, and it’s still easy to see beauty in the dusty, water stained, hallways. The buildings also offer wonderful photo opportunities, and I found myself caught off guard by the beauty and feelings of loneliness around each corner. After 500 photos and 5 exhausting hours of exploring and shooting, it was time to leave for home and get some well-deserved rest.

Colour is still evident in this staircase

Lovely shadows

One of many empty hallways

This door somehow made its was to the attic

The tours are all reasonably priced at around forty euros, depending on the site, and although the company website are currently available only in German, the guides did share their plans to branch out and offer more options moving forward (and are very helpful via email). However, being able to get onto the site alone was enough reason for me to sign up, and if I ever get the chance to visit Berlin again I’ll be sure to fit in another Go2Know tour )or two!).

Tall Roman-esque pillars

An eerie shower room

Large, open theater space

A breaker box, although there is no longer electricity serving the buildings

*Note, the photos are all right off my camera and haven’t been touched up yet. I’ll let you know once I get a chance to post a final album to Flickr.

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The morning of our kayaking adventure we waited on our apartment front steps placing bets on what kind of vehicle would pull up to greet us, laughing at how silly three people would look piling onto a scooter. The car was unmistakable with a couple kayaks tied to the roof and we quickly realized we were the only tour participants for the day – a private guide for three and a half hours? The “steep” price just became a great deal!

As we paddled around Marjan hill, a protected park offering lovely scenic views, our guide Mario pointed out many of the buildings along the shore including a marine biology research centre and one of many summer homes of previous Yugoslavian president Josip Tito. A wealth of information, Mario shared some fun facts about the tourism industry and the stone quarry utilized to build the White House. After a few hours we got our first glimpse of the Old Town from the harbor; although it was a bit busy with cruise ship passengers being ferried to shore, Mario was patient and waited to guide us across during a lull in the traffic (and after our arms had a little rest).

After three and a half hours of paddling we were happy to spot Drazen and his little car on the shore* – our ride home after a long morning. We took a moment to swim before getting changed into dry clothes and piling into the car as the first inklings set in of how sore we would be the next day.

*We may or may not have paddled past a nude beach of sorts during our trip, or perhaps it was just a coincidence that so many naked men were tanning themselves on the rocky shore. Either way we took in a bit more “scenery” than we paid for…

Have you ever traveled to Split? What was your favorite thing to do?

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