Looking back at Pier Head from Albert Dock

In addition to having to live up to the expectations of cities past, Liverpool also has a reputation to maintain as a city of music, football, and culture. It’s exactly this triple-threat that attracts over 4.6 million tourists to the city each year – each one jonesing for a stroll down Matthew Street and a visit to the infamous Cavern Club, known for hosting a pre-Beatlemania John, Paul, George, and Ringo, as well as other distinguished acts including The Hollies, The Rolling Stones, The Kinks, Elton John, Queen, and the Who.

The iconic Cavern Club

Although the role Liverpool played in creating The Beatles should be reserved for debate by fans more hardcore than we, it’s difficult to claim that any present day city has bound itself to the Fab Four more so than present day Liverpool. Their likenesses are plastered all over the town – statues, posters, memorabilia of every kind. It’s impossible to go anywhere in downtown Liverpool without seeing those famous mop-heads.

A sculpture of John Lennon leans against the red brick walls of the rebuilt Cavern Club

Lennon’s Bar – one of many pubs named in honour of The Beatles

An apartment resembling a Yellow Submarine sits in the Pier Head neighbourhood awaiting its next Beatle-crazed guest

But Liverpool is much more than just the Beatles. Named a European Capital of Culture 2008, with the famous Pier Head Waterfront being a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2004, it is a city of contrasting architectural styles, wonderful culture and museums, and a spectacular waterfront.

Our walk along Liverpool’s iconic Pier Head begins at the Royal Liver Building, easily recognizable by its pair of clock towers topped with matching mythical Liver Bird sculptures. It is said that the bird at the front of the building is female and she looks out over the sea watching for the fishermen to return while the bird at the back of the building is male and he looks out over the city centre waiting for the pubs to open. While the story may be amusing, the birds are hard to miss and a must see during any stay in Liverpool.

The Liver Building with matching clock towers and Liver Bird sculptures

Together with the Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building, both well known for their ornate decoration both inside and out, they are collectively referred to as the three graces, a grouping of iconic buildings from the late 19th and early 20th century that have transformed the Liverpool waterfront.

Looking at it today, it’s hard to imagine that this section of waterfront was the George’s Dock throughout most of the 1800’s when it served as a roundup area for the city’s busy trans-Atlantic shipping industry. Moorings, docks, and ships have been replaced by open spaces,  modern art, and a couple amazing museums. This drastic change over the past century has largely contributed to the UNESCO World heritage Status of this part of town.

The Pier Head waterfront is a mix of architectural styles, building materials, and layers of Liverpool’s history

The Port of Liverpool Building is known for its ornate details both inside and out

A short walk from Pier’s head takes you past the amazing Museum of Liverpool, where any question you could ever think up is answered) to Albert Dock, probably our favourite place in the city. Another region where drastic restoration and repurposing has taken effect, this is the cultural heart of the city. The brick and iron buildings and warehouses have been transformed into some of the most interesting and innovative museums in all the UK – most notably the Maritime Museum and TATE Liverpool.

Perfectly restored ships line the interior of the dock as part of the Maritime Museum’s displays, fish and chip shops hawk the fresh catch of the day, and people mull around searching for the perfect Beatles trinket – this is the perfect place since the newly constructed Beatles museum is just around the corner.

We spent almost an entire day wandering around the waterfront of Liverpool – it’s just that fantastic. Walking among the old ships, exploring crazy art in TATE, and playing Beatles themed I Spy all contributed to the surprise Liverpool handed us.

A tall ship in the Albert Docks

Albert Dock and the Tate Museum

Liverpool is peppered with these Superlambanana sculptures

Once you’ve had enough walking around and can’t possibly bear another minute in a museum, the perfect place to head is Liverpool One – one of the UK’s premier shopping centres. With hundreds of shops and countless restaurants, this is the perfect place to pick up a bite to eat and a football scarf or jersey before heading to see some live music or a football match.

And that’s exactly what we did. As our tradition dictates, we ended our final night of this trip with a meal at Nando’s – not exactly our typical scene but it’s tradition! With our bellies full, we headed off to a final football match. And that’s where everything went all screwy…but you’ll have to read about that in our next post!!

Looking out onto Pier Head from our hotel room as the rain falls and the sun sets

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Edinburgh’s stunning Royal Mile

The classic stone architecture one would expect with Edinburgh Castle in the background

As the third generation of my family born in Canada, I’ve never considered myself anything other than fully Canadian, and although the Duncan surname is still as Scottish as the day my great-grandfather Duncan immigrated from Scotland, I had never put much thought into my own genealogy (besides constructing a family tree in fifth grade). However strolling along Edinburgh’s cobblestone streets I couldn’t help but wonder about these ancestors for which I share a common bloodline. Who were they? What were their lives like? Did they too suffer from a nearly constant need for validation and prefer salty to sweet for their go-to movie theater snack?

Although I’m sure that the movie theater snacking dilemma is a relatively new struggle, delving into ones heritage, it feels impossible not to wonder what characteristics you share with the family members that came before. There is something deliciously enticing about discovering where you come from, of which I was far from immune.

Colourful storefronts add a cheerful feeling to the dark stone buildings

The view of Edinburgh Castle from the valley below

One of many vantage points in the city that offer spectacular views

One sunny afternoon, while walking through a cemetery at the foot of Edinburgh Castle, I stumbled onto a gravestone marked with the surname Duncan. Although I hadn’t been looking for it, the name jumped off the moss-covered slab and I couldn’t help but wonder if I’d found one of my own, with whom I perhaps shared a propensity for being near the water or a fondness for the smell of the Earth after a rainstorm.

Are you my ancestors?

More stunning views – looking out onto the city’s core

A storm rolling in while we look out over the city from the National Museum of Scotland

Walking around Edinburgh, marveling at the city around me, I felt myself began to swell with pride. Although not my hometown or birthplace, I immediately felt a deep connection with Edinburgh and I couldn’t help but gush with pride at how truly remarkable the city is. We’ve been fortunate to visit a lot of incredibly beautiful cities during our time in Europe, including many of the world’s most attractive and popular destinations (Copenhagen, Budapest, and Prague immediately come to mind) and after walking around Edinburgh for only a few hours we were already prepared to add it to this list.

It’s impossible to ignore Edinburgh’s beauty

One of the prettiest gravestones I’ve ever seen

Although I’m sure many visitors will find fault with certain aspects of the city. It is overly touristy (I can foresee the crowds being practically unbearable during the peak summer season) and as a result of all this tourism prices are ridiculously inflated, even compared to other parts of Scotland and the UK. Furthermore, the city isn’t known for it’s famous culinary scene like nearby Glasgow and can’t boast a mind-blowing cultural scene like Liverpool, another city we visited while in the UK. However I’m willing to accept these flaws as minor aspects of one hell of a great overall package – after all, that’s what you do when you fall in love with someone, something, or somewhere.

Until next time, Edinburgh

For me, Edinburgh felt in some ways like coming home after a long absence. After a few hours sleep and a good meal everything easily falls back into place and you can’t help but feel comfortable, a feeling that can be hard to replicate while traveling. Unfortunately our visit, like most, wasn’t nearly long enough. However leaving Edinburgh, I knew I was carrying a part of the city onwards with me, and now that we’ve returned home I have a little ember glowing on deep inside still wondering about my ancestors and their stories. While I may or may not share a bloodline with Anne Avery and Thomas Duncan from the tombstone I stumbled onto during our visit, I have roots in Edinburgh and I can’t wait to return one day and retrace them.

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It’s for good reason that I can’t shut-up -they are very cool! However, I started thinking that the people I’m talking to that haven’t had the chance to visit Malta may not completely understand what I’m talking about – or why I keep talking at such lengths about some silly balconies. Therefore, before moving on to discuss our adventures in Belfast and Northern Ireland, I’m going to take a moment to share a (primarily photo based) post with you featuring some of my favorite shots of Malta’s lovely covered balconies.

While exploring Malta, I tried to control my urge to photograph every enclosed balcony we came across – with nearly every house featuring a balcony it’s impossible to stop and inspect each one.

In addition to being unique and charming, I love that the balconies are all painted different colours. While the homes in Malta are predominately built of creamy coloured limestone, the wooden doors, shutters, and balconies are given a coat of shiny paint – making each home a unique reflection of its owner. While  forest green appeared to be the most common colour, Travis was partial to a bright sky-blue balcony near our hostel. I on the other hand couldn’t possibly choose a favorite!

Being so abundant in Malta, one would think that the enclosed balcony has an interesting history; however, an internet search turned up little helpful information. For an interesting read about the balconies, their history, and more colourful photos, check out this informative post by Sherry Ott of Otts World. After much searching, she was able to unearth some interesting anecdotes about these Maltese Balconies.

Do you have any theories into what these balconies were used for? Have you ever come across something similar on your travels?  Let us know in the comments!

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The resulting city was amazing, as you would expect from some of the most important noble families in Catholic Europe, but undoubtedly the crowning jewel was St. John’s Co-Cathedral. Set in the best location in the city, and named after the inspiration for the order – St. John the Baptist – the cathedral has become the ultimate example of High Baroque architecture in the world.

The austere exterior of St. John’s Co-Cathedral

During our 10 months in Europe we’ve made our way into a lot of churches. A lot. Maybe this has left us a little jaded when it comes to tackling churches in a new city, but it really takes something new and exciting to draw us in and wow us.

So as we stood coughing up 6 Euro each to enter St. John’s Co-Cathedral there was a lot of pressure on the place. Not only did it have to compare to the likes of the Seville Cathedral, the Mezquita, or St. Peter’s Basilica, but it also had to justify the $16 we were spending to get in.

Minutes after parting with our hard earned cash, we stood in the Cathedral’s main chamber, our mouths agape. There is gold everywhere. Gold on the walls, gold on the alter, gold on the ceiling – walking into the Co-Cathedral one would swear they’d finally found the end of the rainbow. Perhaps instead, the Co-Cathedral more closely resembles a pirate’s treasure horde, complete with skull and crossbones, skeletal figures, optical illusions, and more gold.

The interior of the Co-Cathedral

The altar of the Cathedral

The Cathedral didn’t start out so lavishly decorated, and standing inside today, it is hard to imagine that originally the austere exterior of the Cathedral was only surpassed by the interior. That all changed with the arrival of Mattia Preti in 1661. The “Knight of Calabria” as he was known was a member of the order and a celebrated artist. In 5 years he transformed the interior with a series of stunning paintings on the barrel ceiling of the Cathedral depicting the life of St. John the Baptist. Intricate carvings were created right in the walls (rather than attached after being completed) of nearly the entire structure. Eight chapels representing each of the eight “langues” of the order were decorated in a seemingly competitive battle for God’s approval.

The detail-work in the Cathedral is stunning

On of the lavishly decorate chapels

Perhaps the most striking feature of the Cathedral, and the one that intrigued us the most was the floor. Covered with inlaid polychrome marble in a myriad of colours, the floor is actually over 400 tombstones of some of the most important and influential members of the order. The tombs depict the virtues and achievements of the Knights interred below, and many are decorated in morbid fashion with skull and crossbones, skeletons, and other dark imagery.

The tombstone-laden floor

An example of the inlaid polychrome marble tombstone that make up the floor of the Cathedral

We spent more than an hour exploring the Cathedral and listening to the free audio guide which outlined the history of both the structure and the order itself. We also made sure to check out the the Oratory, which houses two of Caravaggio’s most famous works (he was a knight as well), and the treasury, which contains tapestries from Rubens and Poussin.

Caravaggio’s “The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist“

While we dislike the idea of having to pay to enter any house of worship, the fact that this Cathedral is more a museum than a church these days, coupled with the difficulty in maintaining this masterpiece (there were literally people with fine paintbrushes dusting the intricately carved walls an inch at a time) means that we were more than happy to pay. The Cathedral is definitely worth the entry fee and is a marvel to see – a must-see if you are in Valletta!

What is the most impressive house of worship you have visited? How do you feel about paying to enter religious buildings? Let us know your thought and feelings in the comments.

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If Malta is the perfect example of a small country that packs a whole lot into its tiny frame, then Valletta is its perfect capital. Ranking as the third smallest capital in Europe (can you name the two that are smaller?), Valletta somehow manages to fit 7000 people, more than 25 churches, and countless monuments in an area less than a square kilometer.

The view towards Sliema from Valletta

It is exactly this small and compact nature that makes it possible to pass from bustling squares to quiet backstreets in just a minutes’ walk, and makes Valletta the perfect spot to spend a day or two during any stay in Malta. In addition to a slower pace, exploring the capital’s cobbled side streets allows visitors to appreciate daily life in the capital as well as play Eye Spy with the thousands of colourful covered balconies that dot the peninsula.

A pigeon takes a well-deserved break from doing nothing and eating all day

The city itself is not actually that old compared to many in Malta – it dates back to only 1566 – “modern” for Malta.  After the defeat of the Ottomans in the Siege of Malta, the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem (also known as the Knights Hospitaller) decided that they needed to build a new, strong, impenetrable capital. The decision was made to build Valletta on a small peninsula adjacent to the Grand Harbour of Malta.

We began our day by taking the frequent ferry service from Sliema to Valletta. Cheaper than the countless harbour cruises on offer, the ferry service offers some pretty good views from the water and is a quick and efficient way to avoid the ever-present traffic around the capital. You can also take the ferry across the Grand Harbour to the three cities.

The view towards Valletta from the Sliema ferry

Hanging out in the Upper Barakka Gardens

The ferry let us off in the quiet residential area of the city. The narrow streets in this part of the city were laid out in a grid patter to allow much-appreciated breezes the chance to cool down the blistering heat of the summer. In this part of the city small, family-run shops dominate the street-level, while up above hundreds of traditional Maltese covered balconies just out of the stone facades.

Just a few of the thousands of Maltese balconies in Valletta

Just a short walk from the quiet backstreets took us to Triq ir-Republika (Republic Street) – the bustling main shopping and eating street of the city. With fancy shops, cafes, and fast food – it seems a world apart. It was also in this area of the city that we found the majority of of our favorite sites.

Perhaps the most impressive of Valletta’s myriad of sites St. John’s Co-Cathedral – so impressive in fact, that we decided it deserves its own post. It truly is a glorious example of a cathedral just dripping with baroque splendor – and a stark contrast to its austere exterior.

The magnificent Baroque interior of St. John’s Co-Cathedral

Remnants of the Knights Hospitaller legacy can be found all over Valletta – the most obvious of which are the massive walls and defense systems that surround the city and make it seemingly impenetrable. From Fort St. Elmo, where in 1565 the Knights held off the invading Ottomans for 28 days (none of the Knights survived) until reinforcements could arrive; to the Upper Barakka Gardens, one of the most beautiful locations in the city with sweeping views and a cannon salute every day; to the stunning Magisterial Palace of the Grandmaster, where the Office of the President and House of Representatives are located today.

All of these attributes make Valletta truly feel like a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can’t help but feel like you are in a truly unique place.

Have you ever traveled to Valletta or any other places in Malta? Let us know your thoughts and feelings in the comments below!

Logistics: To get to Valletta you can take the ferry service from Sliema or the “Three Cities” – fares are 1.50 one way or 2.80 return. You can also take the bus service from anywhere on the island. Buses drop off at the city gates near the Upper Barakka Gardens and the main shopping area. 

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Modica with the Duomo di San Giorgio

Our initial intention was to stay in the most well-known city in the Valley, Ragusa. However, after finding little accommodation in our price range, we decided to stay in the nearby lesser-known town of Modica. This turned out to a fabulous decision as Modica is a near-perfect base for exploring the region – plus it is an amazing city in its own right!

A view down over the lower town, with the baroque Chiesa di San Pietro

People enjoying one of the myriad of fantastic views!

Feeling much smaller than its reported population of 55,000 people (owing to the fact that many live in “new Modica” just a short distance away), Modica’s old town is situated at the junction of two valleys and split into alta and bassa (upper and lower). As such, the city has only two main streets that run through the small valley bottom, while residential homes and even the city’s large cathedral are built up into the steep hillside. The city’s compactness coupled with the seemingly unending supply of narrow back alleys and secret staircases make the town a new adventure every day.

If you ask any local, they will tell you that Modica is known for two things – chocolate and churches – and this suited us just fine.

Often referred to as the “city of 100 churches” – despite our best efforts we could not confirm nor deny this, but it’s probably true – Modica has some stunning churches, many of which are built into the city, surrounded on all sides by traditional Sicilian stone houses and small shops and seeming to almost disappear into the background. In a city with so many churches, only a small handful really stand out – in particular the large Cathedral of St. George (San Giorgio).

A great view of the town with the Duomo di San Giorgio the dominating feature

The Duomo di San Giorgio

With a majestic curving 250-step staircase leading up to it, the Duomo di San Giorgio is the epitome of Sicilian Baroque splendour, and quite possibly the most beautiful Cathedral we saw in Sicily. Rebuilt following the earthquake in 1693, it stands as a true marvel of engineering, built into the side of the ravine with roads and alleys weaving their way around its enormity. Inside, soft tones made it feel light and airy – a nice change from the hectic interiors found elsewhere in Italy.

After fully exploring the city, from lookout points high in the hills to the compact centre below, and it’s beautiful churches (at least the ones we could find) we were ready to shift gears – the perfect excuse to sample some of Modica’s famous chocolate.

Just some of the amazing flavours you can try!

Many chocolatiers also make amazing desserts – including cannoli

From the first bite we knew there was something different about this chocolate – it was definitely not Purdy’s*. Still made in the traditional Aztec method that was brought to Sicily during it rule under the Spanish, the chocolate is gritty and a definite surprise the first time you bite into it. This is due to the fact that no fats are added and the chocolate is never heated over 40 degrees Celcius. Because of this, the added sugar never dissolves and remains as granules. In fact, the only ingredients you will find in Modican Chocolate are the cocoa beans, sugar, and the flavouring being added.

Many of the best Modican Chocolatiers add ingredients found on the island or traditionally traded products, and thankfully they all seem to provide as many samples as you can handle! Some of our favourites included salt from the Trapani region, orange and lemon peel, chili and white pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg, and Marsala wine.

Perhaps the most unique aspect of the chocolate, and the one that the locals probably love the most, is the fact that it DOES NOT MELT. This is probably nice when it’s 40+ degrees in those summer months and you need a quick pick-me-up.

The brilliantly coloured shutters stand out in the maze of traditional Sicilian stone houses

Laundry hanging up to dry

It was definitely in Modica that our feelings and opinions on Sicily began to shift. While some minor annoyances still bothered us on occasion, we were definitely finding our stride in the Sicilian lifestyle.

Logisitics: Modica is served by buses only (for the most part) from many of the major centres around Sicily. The “old city” is really just one main street surrounded by countless alleys and sidestreets. It would be prudent to have some solid directions, or (like us) have your host meet you! Nearly everything you need can be found on the main street (Corso Umberto 1). The bus “station” can be found on the far “Ragusa” end of Corso Umberto.

Nothing beats a COMPLETE rainbow over town!

*Purdy’s is a Canadian Chocolatier based out of Victoria – if you are EVER in British Columbia you should pick some up!

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One of two entrances to Prague’s famous Charles Bridge

Christmas Market and beautiful surroundings

The beloved Astronomical Clock

We’ve been fortunate to visit some visually breathtaking European cities during our travels – Budapest, Paris, and Vienna immediately come to mind – and Prague is no exception. Easily up there with the best in Europe, the stunning architecture, riverside locale, and romantic ambiance make Prague a world-class stunner. Not to mention the wonderful Christmas spirit enveloping the city during late December.

A beautiful church in Prague’s Old Town Square

Entrance to the Charles Bridge with Prague Castle in the background

A guard on duty at Prague Castle

We have read many accounts of travel bloggers and photographers who, taken aback by Prague’s beauty, leave only to find their camera’s memory card filled with shot after shot of buildings. Having now been there ourselves, we can relate. Walking through Prague’s medieval core is like a lesson in history and architecture. From Renaissance and Gothic to Romanesque, Neoclassical, and Art Nouveau, Prague offers a wonderful glimpse into nearly one thousand years of the city’s architectural evolution.

A local Absinthe shop

Charles Bridge at sunset

Beautiful spires and a winding street

For me, the rainbow of sherbet-hued facades will be something I won’t soon forget, while the countless spires that litter the skyline make every panorama worthy of a stop. I didn’t really understand just how far-reaching the historical core of the city is until we took in an aerial view  from Prague Castle.

A small square decorated for Christmas

Prague Castle at Night from the Charles Bridge

Aerial view from Prague Castle

Full of history and century-old facades, Prague is also surprisingly modern with a wonderful transportation system, plenty of great restaurants and shopping, and easy access to some of the best beer in Europe (although that last point may be well contested depending who you talk to). We also picked up on a slightly Eastern-European vibe*, most evident in the styles and dress of the locals, that makes Prague feel slightly exotic and less discovered than other parts of Central or Western Europe.

Charles Bridge at sunrise on Christmas Day

Charles Bridge at night

Beautiful winding street in the historic centre

All together, Prague is a wonderful city, one of our favorite big cities to date, and extremely worthy of a visit!

*To the people of the Czech Republic, we know your country is in “Central” not “Eastern” Europe. Our host made sure to remind us of this upon our arrival.

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The Basilica Cistern

Built in the 6th century by Emperor Justinian, the Basilica Cistern is just one of the hundreds of Cisterns located deep below the streets of Istanbul. Measuring over 100,000 square feet in size, this cathedral-sized cistern provided water for the structures on the “First Hill” (the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, etc.) of Constantinople and then Istanbul.

The huge columns of the Basilica Cistern

But this is no ordinary holding tank.  With Corinthian and Ionic marble and granite columns (which seem to have been brought from all corners of the Roman Empire) and beautiful firebrick arches along the ceiling, the structure is an amazing place to behold.  Curiously, two of the columns contain huge sculptures of Medusa (even more curiously they are aligned upside-down and sideways). Today, elegant red lighting and huge fish swimming in the 3 foot deep water just add to the mysterious feeling of the building.

We really enjoyed exploring the Basilica Cistern thanks to it’s calm atmosphere. With large suspended walkways, visitors can move around at their own pace and have lots of room (although I’m not sure how busy it may be during peak tourist season). While the site itself is tucked underground, away from the noise of the busy streets ahead. If a few moments of seclusion aren’t your thing, there are also fish that live in the few feet of water covering the cistern’s floor.

Walking paths weave through the Cistern

Reflections in the water on the cistern’s floor just add to the experience

Logistics: The Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici in Turkish) is located just 500 meters from the Hagia Sophia. It is open every day and costs 10TL. If you’re a photographer, it also presents the unique opportunity to set up a tripod, something that’s not always allowed in major attractions (or that’s what we’ve experienced anyways).

The Topkapi Palace

For over 400 years, this stunning palace was the home of the Ottoman Sultans, and today it stands as one of Istanbul’s most amazing sights. After it’s initial construction in 1459, the palace was continuously expanded and renovated for centuries, and survived both an earthquake in 1509 and a fire in 1655. At it’s peak, the palace contained a hospital, bakeries, mosques, and a mint. As a structure, it more closely resembles the Alhambra of Granada, with its complex of smaller buildings intermixed with gardens and ponds, than more traditional “palaces” like Versailles or Schonbrunn. Topkapi felt like a place of relaxation rather than a display of overt opulence.

The Topkapi Palace is decorated with beautiful stone and tile-work

The exteriors are just as lovely as the interiors

Following the end of the Ottoman Empire in 1923, the palace was transformed in a museum. Today, the palace complex is comprised of four main courtyards and many smaller buildings, many of which are open for viewing. The museum’s collection on display includes many Ottoman treasures, Islamic calligraphic manuscripts, robes, weapons, and jewelry. Perhaps the most stunning part of the palace is the handmade colourful tiles that cover most of the structures found there.

A luxurious reading room, one of Calli’s favorite spots in the Palace

High arches and gilded details of the Palace

During our week in Istanbul, the Topkapi Palace was the busiest tourist attraction we visited – likely due to the gorgeous sunny weather on that particular Saturday. While the architecture and decor is beautiful both inside and out of the palace, the large gardens make this site particularly special. It’s worth waiting for a nice day to visit (if you can) simply to spend some extra time perched on a bench overlooking the city below.

Logistics: The palace is located “behind” the Hagia Sophia – you can’t miss it. Entrance is 25 TL (plus 15 TL if you want to visit the Harem), and it is closed Tuesdays.

Gulhane Park

Formerly the outer gardens of the Topkapi Palace, this beautiful green space is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of Sultanahmet. There’s not much to do here but relax on a bench and enjoy the cool shade of the trees.

The park borders Topkapi Palace

Suleymaniye Mosque

Larger and older than the Blue Mosque, this is one of the most dominating features of the Sultanahmet skyline. Built in the 16th century, the mosque has a beautiful courtyard and cemetery. Given its proximity to the Grand Bazaar, it receives surprisingly few visitors.

The massive Suleymaniye Mosque at dusk

Eminonu

The main port of Sultanahmet, Eminonu is one of the busiest centres of the city and provides a great opportunity for people watching. In addition to watching people fish, shop, and rush  to board the frequent ferries, visitors can explore the nearby Egyptian Bazaar and Yeni Mosque. Or maybe visit the interesting stores selling everything from belt buckles to cabinet knobs around the Rustem Pasha Mosque (one of the prettiest in the city). One of our favorite things to do in this area was simply walk across the Galata Bridge to Karakoy. Made of two levels, this bridge has numerous seafood restaurants on it’s lower level where patrons can enjoy the catch of the day and countless fisherman spend the day hauling whatever they can catch from the top deck.

The Yeni Mosque at Eminonu from the Galata Bridge

Fishermen take advantage of the annual Black Sea Anchovy run

If the last few posts about sightseeing and shopping in Sultanahmet hasn’t filled up your itinerary yet, be sure to stay tuned for our tips on what to see in some of Istanbul’s unique neighbourhoods.

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Before Brasov, we’d only interacted with Talon and his son Tigger (of 1 Dad, 1 Kid) online. However, knowing we would be in Romania at the same time, we decided to meet up in Brasov and have them “introduce” us to the city, their home base for the last few weeks. Four hours later, we’d explored every nook and cranny of the Old Town, including both the Saxon and Romanian quarters and some of the city’s most notable attractions.

It may be the Romania’s seventh largest city, but Brasov’s historic centre is a world unto itself, with narrow winding streets, ornate architecture, and people going about their business as they have for hundreds of years. Although we had already spent a week in Romania, we continued to be surprised by how beautiful Brasov’s old town is, at times it was hard to believe we weren’t in parts of Poland or Germany.

Brasov county is one of the most highly visited areas in Romania, and the city makes for a wonderful base to explore the surrounding area through daytrips either by train or bus. We made three such excursions on the train during our five days in the region, and left feeling we’d barely scratched the surface of all there is to see.

Another great person who made our time in Brasov both memorable and comfortable is Rinda, the proprietor of Rinda’s Rooms, our accommodation for five days in the city. The room was so warm and inviting, complete with a private bath and beds equipped with heating pads, that we didn’t want to leave. Rinda’s cheerful and welcoming approach to sharing her home with two strangers made Brasov feel like home.

Stunning architecture, old city charm, incredibly friendly people – but what about the food? In Brasov, there are enough culinary treats to keep you indoors and away from sightseeing for the duration of your visit. Notably, we had an incredible meal at Sergiana’s, lovingly referred to as “Pork Heaven” by many travelers. They bring you free pork upon being seated, and the ribs are so moist and succulent the thought of them brings a tear to my eye. For less indulgent, yet equally tasty meals (that reminded us of Travis’ Nona’s cooking), we hit up Brasovia, a small cafeteria style restaurant on the main drag that serves up authentic Romanian dishes lovingly prepared by a gaggle of grandmothers in the back kitchen. They even took the time to teach Travis some Romanian words for the items he ordered.Unfortunately, as is the case with every new place we visit, the time eventually came to move on. Knowing that we were moving towards Turkey may have made things a bit easier, but Brasov is one of those places we hope to return to one day.

*There are bears in Brasov, but we didn’t see any. We don’t know about beets (or Battlestar Galactica).

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Piata Mica (the Small Square)

A typical street in Sibiu’s Old Town

A preserved section of the old town walls

Slightly more than 6 hours after we’d left Timisoara, our train finally pulled in the trains station at Sibiu – generally regarded as one of the most beautiful cities in Romania. Exhausted and half-expecting to spend the rest of the evening crashing in our room, we made the short walk to our lovely guesthouse. En route, however, we were immediately taken by the charm of the city and knew we just had to start exploring then.

A view over Sibiu

The sunsets were beautiful!

Stairs up into the Inner Old Town

Having been named European Capital of Culture just 6 years ago, Sibiu is perhaps not a completely fair representation of Transylvania as many buildings and walkways have been recently renovated; However, the city would still evoke old European beauty even if this were not the case.

Setting up the Christmas market in Piata Mare

A young boy enjoying the unseasonably warm weather

The city’s long entwinement with German culture is evident all over the city. Once called Hermannstadt the city is still one of the most “German influenced” in all of Romania. Even today, the city remains full of great examples of Baroque and Renaissance architecture and large open squares. Of particular note are the buildings on Piata Mare (the Big Square) – all of which are amazinlgy restored protected monuments dating from between the 13th and 20th centuries. Coupled with the surrounding snow-capped mountains, and we felt like we were wandering through a German or Austrian ski town rather than a city in the heart of Transylvania.

Piata Mare is one of the most beautiful in all of Romania

The old Orthodox Church

Perhaps the thing that impressed and intrigued us the most was the seemingly boundless old town. We thought that perhaps this was because Romanian architecture is so much different than what you get used to in Europe that “normal” buildings seem more extraordinary to visitors like us than they do to locals (we got the same kind of feeling in Sarajevo). However even as we reached the edges of the traditional Old Town we could see small charming homes sprawling into the distance, with far fewer towering hotels and apartment buildings than in many other Romanian cities we’ve seen.

Some of the houses in the neighbourhood we stayed in

One of the unrestored, yet beautiful buildings outside the core of the city

Beautiful doors – drawing Calli in since 2012

Hanging the star for the Christmas market

Having since visited Sighisoara and Brasov, Sibiu’s charm is hard to forget, making it a must visit if you are ever in Transylvania.

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