After exploring the images, maps, and video material on display, Travis and I met up with one of two young girls working in the gallery who had offered to provide us with some more information and context to the events that occurred in Srebrenica. With a hushed voice she began to talk about the disintegration of Yugoslavia, the creation of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina by referendum, and the attack on the newly formed republic by Bosnian Serb forces backed by the Serbian Government and the Yugoslav People’s Army with the intention of unifying and securing Serb territory within Bosnia.

Our guide explained that in April 1993, the United Nations entered the small town of Srebrenica, an area of high conflict in the east, with a small contingency of Canadian troops and declared the area a UN safe area “free form any armed attack or other hostile act”. A year later, the small group of Canadian forces were withdrawn and replaced with a larger infantry of Dutch soldiers. By July 1995 Srebrenica was surrounded by Serbian forces and lacking necessary supplies, rations, medicine, and weaponry. After finding little resistance in previous assaults, Serbian forces took the city while Dutch UN forces fired warning shots and flares over their heads. The UN Protection Forces never fired directly on any Serb units.

In the evening of July 11, 1995, between 20,000 and 25,000 Bosniak refugees from Srebrenica gathered in Potocari seeking protection within the UN compound there. While several thousand had already pressed inside the compound, thousands more spread through neighbouring factories and fields. Knowing that the men of military age would face death outside the compound, the Dutch claimed their base was full and on July 13th more than 5,000 Bosniak refugees from the compound were expelled.

In the events that followed, men and young boys were separated from women and the elderly, massacred, and carted away to be buried in mass graves.

As our guide talked about this senseless slaughter I found my attention elsewhere. For three years between 1992 and 1995, the United Nations, North America, and the rest of Europe chose not to intervene in the conflict in Bosnia, claiming that it was a civil war and they would not take sides. Not until the Markale massacre on August 28, 1995, nearly a month and a half after the events of Srebrenica and Potocari, did the West intervene when NATO launched a bombing campaign against Serbia. The campaign lasted 21 days and ultimately ended the conflict.

21 days of intervention by North America was all it took to end a bloody three-year long conflict in which roughly 100,000 people lost their lives and 2.2 million people were displaced from their homes.

The debates surrounding the general effectiveness and purpose of the UN and the circumstances as to when, if at all, one country should intervene in the affairs of another are muddy, complex, and not something I’m prepared to take a firm position on here. However the events of the Bosnian War do clearly illustrate the notion that opting to not to make a choice is a choice in itself. By deciding not to get involved in Bosnia the rest of the world, Canada included, sided with Serbia by default.

For most, investigatory boards established in the aftermath of this conflict concluded that the Canadians aren’t to blame for the events that unfolded in Srebrenica. After all, they had been removed for nearly a year before July 1995. However standing in the small, dark hallways of Gallery 11/07/95, surrounded by the names of those who were massacred in the Bosnian War, my notions of what it meant to be Canadian were challenged for the first time. Why didn’t I know Canadians had been dispatched into Srebrenica? More so, why hadn’t I learned about this conflict before? After five painstaking years tracing Jacques Cartier’s journey up the St. Lawrence for school projects I knew about the establishment of Canada, yet I knew very little about Canadian contributions to world history. Like a teenager first discovering her parents have flaws I struggled to accept the role my country played in this conflict as well as the fact that events of this magnitude had occurred during my lifetime.

At home July 1st is Canada Day, a celebration the anniversary of the enactment of the British North America Act of 1867, under which the British North American colonies of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and the Province of Canada united together into a single country named Canada under the British Empire. Generally recognized as Canada’s birthday, celebrations are held across the country each July 1^st complete with maritime air shows and firework displays, however this year my mind continues to drift back to our time in Bosnia.

As a carefree eight year old, July 1995 was spent sprawled out in the sunshine with my family, roasting hot dogs over a bonfire, my mouth likely dyed pink from a can of sugary cream soda. Meanwhile, halfway around the world in Bosnia, children the same age were hiding in UN camps, dodging bullets on their way to the market in downtown Sarajevo, and praying for someone to come help them.

Having now explored Bosnia and Gallery 11/08/95 I’ll likely never approach a summer holiday at Shuswap Lake with the same pre-travel mindset I had just a year before, and I find myself in awe of the impact travel has had on areas of my life and mind I never expected. Sitting in the sun, rattling off the last few lines of this article with a cool beer by my side I also wonder how many people around the world find themselves in similar situations to those in Srebrenica twenty years ago. With the passage of time nothing appears to stay the same, yet in some ways nothing ever really changes.

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Having now spent more than 6 weeks in all but two of the former countries that made up Yugoslavia (sorry Macedonia and Kosovo!), we felt is was high time we articulated our favorite experiences from this often overlooked region of the world. While not as popular as Southeast Asia or Central America, the entire Balkan region provides diverse history and culture at a fraction of the cost of Western Europe (we averaged $94/day total for 2 people, and we didn’t scrimp on comfort or meals out).

So without further ado, here is our list of the most unforgettable experiences we had in the Balkan region (in no particular order):

Witnessing the spectacular views from Dubrovnik’s Old Town Walls

Hiking the Old Town Walls is perhaps the quintessential Dubrovnik experience. The same structures that once provided protection for the city now provide visitors with some of the most amazing views around. Get there early to avoid the crowds!

Surviving the Eternal Derby in Belgrade

Attending (and surviving) the Eternal Derby between Red Star and Partizan in Belgrade was probably one of the most thrilling things we’ve ever done while traveling. From the noise to the flares to the fires in the stands, this was not your mother’s North American sporting event.

Hearing the call to prayer for the first time in Sarajevo

Sarajevo (and most of Bosnia for that matter) is an exotic departure from the rest of Europe. Coming from British Columbia, where Muslims constitute less than 2% of the population, hearing the call to prayer from our open window in Sarajevo for the first time was  a surreal experience – and one we will not soon forget.

Hiking through Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice has it all, crystal clear turquoise lakes teeming with fish, countless waterfalls, beautiful wooden walkways and bridges, and hundreds of kilometers of hiking trails. It is truly one of the most beautiful national parks we’ve ever been to – and we live in British Columbia!

Stuffing ourselves with fresh seafood on the Adriatic Coast

One of the best things about traveling through the Adriatic towns in Montenegro, Croatia, and Slovenia was the abundance and affordability of seafood. Fresh fish and squids are available nearly everywhere along the coast, and you can easily get more than you can eat for less than $10.

Getting lost in Sarajevo’s Baščaršija

Sarajevo’s old Ottoman market (or Baščaršija) is unlike any other market you are likely to see in Europe. Built in the 15th century, the marketplaces contains a maze of wooden shops selling everything from traditional Turkish coffee pots to tourist souvenirs. Be sure to fill your water up at the fountain in the courtyard of the 16th century Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque.

Exploring Lake Bled and the Vintgar Gorge

From the moment we put Slovenia into our plans we knew that Lake Bled was going to be a must-see place – and it didn’t disappoint. However, what we didn’t expect was to find one of the most beautiful little parks we’ve ever set foot in, the Vintgar Gorge.

Discovering Ancient Cities along the Bay of Kotor

The UNESCO-listed Natural and Culturo-Historical Region of Kotor is one of the most dramatic locations in all of the Balkans. A place with something for everyone, this region of Montenegro has everything from hiking and kayaking to walled cities and island churches. If that wasn’t enough, the bay is breathtakingly beautiful.

Kayaking the crystal blue waters of the Adriatic

A spur of the moment email to a young tour company based out of Split, Croatia ended up providing us with one of the most fun adventures we had in the whole region. Spending a day  seeing the city from the sea is a completely different experience, and one we would wholeheartedly recommend.

Learning about the history of Yugoslavia throughout the region

One of the things that we found most prevalent among the incredibly friendly people we met throughout the Balkans was their openness in talking about the wars and the breakup of Yugoslavia. From tour guides to our hosts to people we met in trains, everyone was willing to share their stories of the war times with us – and we were more than happy to listen and learn about such an important subject (and one we knew relatively little about before visiting!).

So there you have it…our favorites from the Balkan region. Have you ever been to any of these countries? What did we miss?

Sharing this post over at Chasing the Donkey – check out all the submissions for some great travel inspiration!

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The view down over the old town of Pocitelj from the tower.

After a brisk thirty minute bus ride, the town came into view and our eyes were immediately drawn up – the impressive fortifications and citadel stood ominously over the city. Although laying partially in ruins these days, we got the feeling that the citadel and walls once stood watch over an important and thriving town. While the origins of the town remain mysterious, it has been surmised that the town was established some time around the late 14th century.

Over the last 7 centuries, the town has served as a strategically important fortified town and an important administrative and trading outpost for the Bosnian, Ottoman, Hungarian, and Venetian Empires. Today it is recognized as a centre of both great cultural importance and great concern as many of its buildings are starting to crumble as people move into the “new town” just down the road. This has resulted in the town being named on UNESCO’s 100 Most Endangered Sites. It’s bid for World Heritage Status is viewed as a possible saving grace for the city and will hopefully stave off any more destruction to the city’s historical features.

The view up to the keep and the town’s fortifications

Much of the wall remains intact to this day

Walking around the city feels like taking a step back in time, immediately Perast, Montenegro came to mind as we climbed upwards into the town and it’s numerous rock walls. Vendors selling freshly opened pomegranates and figs, and artisans hawking handmade crafts lined the main street, a small cobblestone pathway  about a hundred meters long, and many locals could be seen hanging laundry or making their way down to the mosque.

A pomegranate hangs in front of the 16th century Mosque

A basketball court sits just above the city walls

Hiking around the city is an extremely enjoyable way to spend a lazy afternoon. The winding stone streets are enchanting, and we were immediately taken with this tiny town. Locals waved from the yards or balconies and pointed us down the best paths as we wandered by. We felt very welcome – a feeling that was becoming familiar in Bosnia. A short climb took us up to the donjon tower (aka the keep), one of a few scattered pieces of the town’s fortifications still almost wholly intact. From here it’s possible to see both the new town, located on a flat region near the riverbank, as well as the entire old town with it’s graying tiled roofs and flashes of bright red pomegranates sparkling in the sun.

The stone walkways of the town

The view over the new town and the Neretva River

As far as daytrips from Mostar go, it is impossible to find a more quaint destination, and considering its proximity it would be a shame to pass on Pocitelj. If you’re planning a visit of your own, we’d recommend arriving mid-morning to avoid climbing in the heat. It’s also a good idea to bring water and a picnic lunch as there are only a handful of restaurants in town and many seemed to be closed during our visit in the shoulder season.

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Stari Most – the Old Bridge

Reading up on the city, everyone is eager to talk about “the bridge” (no, not the TV show). Since the 16th century visitors have stood in awe of this Ottoman masterpiece, a true engineering marvel in its day. Presently the Old Bridge (now a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the old town) covers everything from postcards to magnets to t-shirts to watercolour paintings by local artists – in fact, we were hard-pressed to find any souvenir that didn’t have an image of the bridge on it. The story of its history, tragic destruction, and reconstruction even has its own museum. However, after four days in the area we realized that Mostar is much more than the Stari Most Bridge, even if its other parts are a bit rough around the edges.

A man pauses to admire the Neretva below the Old Bridge

Minarets and mosques dominate the skyline of the old town

How long are you here for? Four days! You can see the bridge and the nice streets in two hours – maybe you should leave early.

                                                    – Cranky American Lady at the Bus Station in Mostar

These were the first words we heard in Mostar, from a peach of a lady sitting in the bus station. Perhaps her demeanor should be excused, as she didn’t realize that the clocks fell back an hour the night before. Our fears were quickly dissuaded by our amazing host Mia when she picked us up from the bus station to take us to her place. She assured us that there was lots to see and do, both in Mostar and in the surrounding area.

Even some of the street art is about the bridge!

Much like Sarajevo, Mostar is in a state of repair. Nearly twenty years after the end of the Bosnian War, many buildings still show the scars inflicted by bullets and mortars, and a surprising percentage of large buildings still stand completely abandoned, left for Mother Nature to reclaim. We were struck with a familiar sobering feeling when we saw pictures of the Old Bridge (which collapsed after being struck by 60 mortars) and the destroyed Orthodox Cathedrals. We even walked the old front line along Bulevar Revolucije, which in 1993 separated the Croat- and Bosnian-controlled sides of the city by just 5 meters.

The Bulevar Revolucije (aka the former front-line)

One of the former sniper towers – it used to be a bank as far as we could discern.

Perhaps the most surreal experience came when we decided to explore some of the abandoned “snipe towers” that line the old front-line. Climbing up the crumbling staircases over shattered glass (definitely a “Pat wouldn’t like this” moment), we stood in the exact locations that snipers would have picked off enemy soldiers and citizens just 20 years ago. We even found a surprisingly high number of shell casings still leftover, just waiting to be cleaned up one day.

The abandoned expanse of the sniper tower floors

Graffiti now covers the inside of the abandoned sniper towers.

One of the shell casings we found buried in the rubble

I don’t want anyone to read this and think there is nothing beautiful in the city, In fact, it is perhaps one of the most beautiful cities in all of the Balkans. Set in a stunning valley with the dazzling turquoise Neretva River running through it, the city still exudes charm like it’s going out of style. The winding streets of the Ottoman old town lead to parks, mosques, and some of the best examples of Ottoman houses in all of the Balkans.

The Ottoman era old town

Upon leaving the city, we contemplated whether allocating 4 days to Mostar was the right choice. Sure, you could see most of the city in a couple hours like the lady in the bus station said – but why would you want to? We spent hours relaxing in the sun, exploring different parts of the city, eating burek and cevapi, and taking Mostar in. Who knows, in 10 years Mostar may be at the point where travelers reminisce about when “Mostar had a truly authentic feel” and wasn’t just another destination overrun by tourists.

Have you ever been to Mostar? What did you think of the city? Let us know in the comments below!

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The view from the crumbling ruins of a Turkish Fort. The abandoned building in the middle (to the left of the tall minaret) is a former army barracks that was targeted and destroyed by Serbian forces during the Siege of Sarajevo.

Sarajevo has far too many cemeteries, a constant reminder of the very real impact of the war. It is heartbreaking to see them scattered along the hills that surround the city, even more difficult is the realization that many of these people died defending their city less than 20 years ago.

Inside the courtyard of one of Sarajevo’s many Mosques sits a fountain with this incredibly ornate ceiling. The secret places and hidden beauty you can find within Sarajevo is incredible.

The game of chess seems to play an important role in Sarajevo’s social scene. These men can be found playing in the square morning, noon, and night. Although only two men play each other at a time, that doesn’t stop the onlookers from taking sides and passionately offering advice. Our guide (Neno) told us they even play when its -30 and there’s 4 feet of snow in the winter.

The Orthodox Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos is located opposite the chess players in a large square.

The Eternal Flame sits on Tito Street in honour of those who worked together to liberate the area during the Second World War

The Bascarsija is a meeting place for locals within the historic Turkish district. Here it can be seen at night…

… as well as by daylight

As it turns out, we couldn’t resist adding our two cents in the form of captions – at least we resisted the urge to write whole paragraphs. Our time in Sarajevo was both eye opening, as we learned about the city’s complex history and the horrors of life during the Siege of Sarajevo, but also intriguing as we delved into a culture very much different than any we’ve ever experienced.

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The original Sarajevo Olympics sign at the main station in town

The Olympics logo can still be spotted all over town

Unfortunately, as is the case in much of Bosnia and Herzegovina, getting anywhere outside the historic centre can be challenging. As public transport is limited we weren’t able to find any service to the site, or even transport part way that would allow us to hike into the bobsled track. Adding to my frustration, we found a day tour that included the bobsled track, however it was not offered during our visit in the off-season. In the end, the only transportation option we were left with was a taxi ride to the top. Unwilling to give up, we managed to find a map online that included most of the city’s streets and the bobsled site (easiest if you search for Trebević). Armed with an electronic copy of the map on our tablet and with camera in hand, we set out from our hotel on foot, unsure if we’d be successful at reaching the track or not.

A home high up on Trebević

Sheep grazing in a pasture near the track

Sarajevo is situated in a deep valley, so we assumed the hike would be challenging but it turned out to be more difficult that we ever could have imagined. In addition to the steep terrain, the winding streets were confusing to navigate, street signs are nowhere to be found, and our map didn’t differentiate between main and secondary streets (or even walking paths). We spent more than a few minutes standing at intersections trying to decipher which one to choose. On a couple of these occasions friendly local ladies popped their heads out of a window or over the railing of their balconies to point the way. Although the language gap made it difficult to confirm their directions, we assumed they were used to seeing confused tourists, and in the end our trust in them paid off.

An abandoned building nearby with a “monsieur chat” tag on it

After about an hour and a half of walking we finally spotted a couple of abandoned buildings in a small clearing (one with a Monsieur Chat tag on it), and just minutes later we saw the bobsled track through the trees. High fives ensued. We emerged at the bottom of the bobsled track and after exploring the foundations of a couple destroyed buildings we climbed onto the track and proceeded to walk up it for a few hundred meters.

We made it…to the bottom!

A long straight section to the finish line

Colourful graffiti covers the track

In addition to being covered with bright graffiti, the bobsled track shows its scars from years of fighting. During the siege, the track was used as cover by the Bosnian Serb Army. Sniper points were drilled into the sides of the track, and the reinforced concrete provided excellent cover. Today it’s incredible to walk along the track picturing the site both during it’s glory in 1984 and its use as a tool of war just nine years later.

Us having fun “sledding” down the track.

One of the sniper vantage points drilled into the track walls

Here is a youtube video showing the bobsled track in use during the Olympics in 1984.

Logistics: For those wanting to visit the bobsled track, we highly recommend finding some form of transportation to the top, be it rental car, taxi, or with a guided tour. Although it’s possible to hike to the track, the round trip journey was pretty draining physically, it took us about 4 hours overall, and there is no guarantee you won’t get turned around on the narrow streets that crisscross the hillside. If you do decide to hike, leave early before it gets too hot out and pack lots and lots of water. A picnic for the top isn’t a bad idea either. It’s also good to note that the hill has been cleared of virtually all of its landmines – but it is still good practice to stay to well worn paths and roads and avoid straying too far into the forest.

The abandoned buildings make for a great (but dangerous) viewpoint!

The view from the top over Sarajevo

For a great view, there is an abandoned astronomical observatory tower nearby – you can see it from the bobsled track. Be careful, as it is starting to fall apart and there are no railings. Here is a website with some of the history of the Observatory.

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The view from our window

When traveling through Europe, especially when traveling slowly and over short distances like we have been on this trip, it can become difficult to distinguish city from city. Memories of buildings and museums start to blend together, and your outlook on travel can become jaded. This was not going to be a problem in Sarajevo.

Just one of the countless narrow streets of Baščaršija

Sarajevo is an all out assault on the senses from morning until night. Dodging traffic, sampling Bosnian Cevapi and Burek, hunting for treasures in antique markets, and photographing bombed out buildings – everything in Sarajevo seemed to be an adventure of epic proportions.

A selection of Cezve (traditional coffee pots) for sale in the bazaar

We began our visit in the same way we do in most cities – with a free walking tour. Our guide, the charismatic Neno (not Nemo, that is a fish), grew up during the war and mixed tales of his life during these trying times with interesting historical anecdotes. Some of the highlights included visiting the Markale Market (the sight of the biggest single attack during the siege), walking over the Latin Bridge (and the corner where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was shot – he wasn’t shot on the bridge!), meandering through Baščaršija (the old 15th century Turkish Bazaar), and witnessing hundred of Muslim men and women make their way to the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque to pray after the call to prayer.

The Markale Market

The Latin Bridge – Franz Ferdinand was shot at the corner of the Museum

In addition to our walking tour, we also took a tour out to the Tunnel Museum at the Sarajevo Airport. At over 800m long, the tunnel, which began in an ordinary house and burrows its way under the International Airport, was the only connection the people of Sarajevo had with the outside world. As the city was completely surrounded by Serbian forces, the Tunnel of Hope was the only way to get food, weapons, medicine, and anything else the people needed in the city during the nearly 4-year siege.

The house where the Tunnel of Hope began

Travis in the Tunnel…you have to crouch slightly for it’s entire length

Perhaps one of the most beautiful and heartbreaking experiences we had was or visit to Gallery 11/07/95. Set up as a tribute to the genocide that happened in the small town of Srebrenica, the gallery displays black-and-white photos and a video of the people who suffered and survived the largest mass killing since WWII (where over 8,000 Bosniak Muslims were systematically executed over 3 days). Our experience was made all the much more meaningful by us accepting one of the employee’s offer to guide us around. The photos were thought-provoking and heartbreaking – definitely a worthwhile experience.

The beautiful Gallery 11/07/95 (via)

Sarajevo provided an eye-opening experience for us. Having grown up in a place where the thought of war and suffering is so foreign as to seem impossible, it was extremely moving experience to be in a place where the tangible evidence of a war that ended less than 20 years ago still remains. Bullet-holes and destroyed buildings are as common as the white headstones that blanket the hills honouring the fallen heroes.

One of the cemeteries to the defenders of Sarajevo

And yet the people of Sarajevo keep persevering. Everyone we met greeted us with a warm smile – pointing us in the right direction when we were lost, giving us free strudels for breakfast, and going out of their way to make our visit to Sarajevo the best if could be.

Have you ever been to Sarajevo? What did you think about the city?

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With so many interesting subjects all around, including a traditional Tibetan Monk using a Samsung tablet on a street corner, and an adorable little boy playing an accordion even bigger than he was, I felt extremely frustrated that I couldn’t capture these wonderfully candid moments. Also, I know for a fact the little musicians mother was lurking in the shadows (likely holding his shoes) just waiting for me to take a photo so she could stalk me for blocks begging for payment in return – a mistake I was adamant not to make.

Fortunately I found some solace at night, and while everyone was busy meeting friends for dinner or attending evening prayer, I could disappear into the background somewhat. As a result, I was able to snap this photo through a small window in the wall surrounding a Mosque.

Catching a glimpse of the man on the right as we passed the Mosque, I recognized his hand gestures as a type of prayer I’d seen earlier at a cemetery we had visited. Without time to let Travis in on the plan, I quickly ducked against the wall, composed my shot, and took the photo while silently feeling guilty for taking advantage of such a personal moment.

I actually wasn’t too pleased with this photo at first. Due to the low light the man was very underexposed, and while the background was well lit and clear it wasn’t supposed to be the main focus of my shot. Unfortunately, there was no time to take another shot as the moment was over; however after getting it onto the computer and converting to black and white, I was really pleased with what came out. I’m going to take this as a lesson to never delete anything from my camera without taking a look at it on the computer first.

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Headache in tow, Travis and I made our way to the airport, a forty-five minute bus trip from the Old Town of Ljubljana, and although we were sad to leave the beauty of Slovenia, we were also excited to be moving on to Sarajevo. Cranky, famished, with wet shoes and stinky feet, I couldn’t wait to arrive at the fantasy-land that is large international airports. Full of shops, restaurants, and if you’re lucky, free wi-fi, there are worse places to spend a few hours. However as it turns out, the Slovenian airport is less of a metropolitan adventure land than a shabby throwback to Yugoslavia. No, no, it’s ok that I said that, because our airport at home is equally as shameful; although it only serves 80,000 or so citizens and flies to such exotic locales as Fort St. John, Smithers, and Calgary, so no one is really up in arms over the lack of dining choices.

The tiny airport in our hometown of Kamloops (via)

Luckily, the ever present Duty Free Shop came to my rescue, and a bulk bag of peanut m&m’s became both breakfast and lunch (peanuts for protein). Thank goodness for humankind’s incessant need to purchase oversized quantities of cheap cigarettes and liquor before leaving a country, or I may have starved to death.

As it turns out, the Slovenian airport’s main concern may not be fancy dining and shopping at all, but simply getting planes off the ground, as nearly every departure was delayed by ten to fifteen minutes. Later, we discovered the bottleneck causing this turmoil, as our gate opened a mere fifteen minutes before our scheduled departure time. Fortunately, the plane was small and comfortable, and less than 45 minutes later we were landing in Sarajevo.

Bullet holes are an all-to-common sight in Sarajevo

Disembarking from the plane, we cleared customs in record time to find our bags already on the turnstile awaiting us. Although I didn’t see any luxury stores or sparkling restaurants in the airport, it’s already impressed me with it’s stunning efficiency (honestly, it was less than 15 minutes from walking out of the plane to standing outside the front doors of the airport). As a city still on the mend, there is currently no (reliable) public bus serving the airport, and although Travis and I could have likely found the tram station, a ten minute walk away, we decided to bite the bullet and treat ourselves to a relaxing cab ride to our accommodation.

Driving through Sarajevo, we immediately realized we weren’t in Kansas anymore – everything feels so different and more exotic than the parts of Europe we’ve visited before. The city is definitely growing and modernizing, as evident by a few large glass skyscrapers that dot the “new” town; however, crumbling communist era buildings riddled with bullet holes are still more common and immediately bring to mind the country’s recent bloody history.

The building next door (aka the Town Hall) – not too shabby!

After paying our driver and hiking up the three flights of stairs to our home for the next six days, we anxiously looked around – small place, seems quiet, likely no room for noisy travel groups. And, upon seeing our room, spacious with fluffy pillows, individual comforters, and a view of the historical Turkish district, we didn’t quite know what to do first, fall into bed or throw open the windows and breath in Sarajevo. From our windows, Travis and I peered out into this exciting new world, tapping the other to point out a mosque or partially demolished building. Although we tried to seem nonchalant, I’m sure we failed miserably.

The view from our apartment!

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The Old Town and Old Bridge of Mostar

Being that we were unsure about what there was to do and see in this fairly unknown country, we have decided to give ourselves just under two weeks – split evenly between the hubs of Sarajevo and Mostar. We hope this will give us enough time to venture out into the smaller towns and villages and give us an authentic taste of what Bosnia and Herzegovina has to offer.

What are we most excited about seeing and doing in Bosnia and Herzegovina?

For Calli, it’s going to be all about bridges in BiH – more specifically the Old Bridge in Mostar (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), and the Latin Bridge in Sarajevo (the location of the start of WWI). For Travis, he is most excited about exploring the high-elevation village of Lukomir and witnessing the mixed heritage and culture of Sarajevo.

The traditional Bosniak village of Lukomir.

Have you ever been to Bosnia and Herzegovina? What did you like most?

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