The resulting city was amazing, as you would expect from some of the most important noble families in Catholic Europe, but undoubtedly the crowning jewel was St. John’s Co-Cathedral. Set in the best location in the city, and named after the inspiration for the order – St. John the Baptist – the cathedral has become the ultimate example of High Baroque architecture in the world.

The austere exterior of St. John’s Co-Cathedral

During our 10 months in Europe we’ve made our way into a lot of churches. A lot. Maybe this has left us a little jaded when it comes to tackling churches in a new city, but it really takes something new and exciting to draw us in and wow us.

So as we stood coughing up 6 Euro each to enter St. John’s Co-Cathedral there was a lot of pressure on the place. Not only did it have to compare to the likes of the Seville Cathedral, the Mezquita, or St. Peter’s Basilica, but it also had to justify the $16 we were spending to get in.

Minutes after parting with our hard earned cash, we stood in the Cathedral’s main chamber, our mouths agape. There is gold everywhere. Gold on the walls, gold on the alter, gold on the ceiling – walking into the Co-Cathedral one would swear they’d finally found the end of the rainbow. Perhaps instead, the Co-Cathedral more closely resembles a pirate’s treasure horde, complete with skull and crossbones, skeletal figures, optical illusions, and more gold.

The interior of the Co-Cathedral

The altar of the Cathedral

The Cathedral didn’t start out so lavishly decorated, and standing inside today, it is hard to imagine that originally the austere exterior of the Cathedral was only surpassed by the interior. That all changed with the arrival of Mattia Preti in 1661. The “Knight of Calabria” as he was known was a member of the order and a celebrated artist. In 5 years he transformed the interior with a series of stunning paintings on the barrel ceiling of the Cathedral depicting the life of St. John the Baptist. Intricate carvings were created right in the walls (rather than attached after being completed) of nearly the entire structure. Eight chapels representing each of the eight “langues” of the order were decorated in a seemingly competitive battle for God’s approval.

The detail-work in the Cathedral is stunning

On of the lavishly decorate chapels

Perhaps the most striking feature of the Cathedral, and the one that intrigued us the most was the floor. Covered with inlaid polychrome marble in a myriad of colours, the floor is actually over 400 tombstones of some of the most important and influential members of the order. The tombs depict the virtues and achievements of the Knights interred below, and many are decorated in morbid fashion with skull and crossbones, skeletons, and other dark imagery.

The tombstone-laden floor

An example of the inlaid polychrome marble tombstone that make up the floor of the Cathedral

We spent more than an hour exploring the Cathedral and listening to the free audio guide which outlined the history of both the structure and the order itself. We also made sure to check out the the Oratory, which houses two of Caravaggio’s most famous works (he was a knight as well), and the treasury, which contains tapestries from Rubens and Poussin.

Caravaggio’s “The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist“

While we dislike the idea of having to pay to enter any house of worship, the fact that this Cathedral is more a museum than a church these days, coupled with the difficulty in maintaining this masterpiece (there were literally people with fine paintbrushes dusting the intricately carved walls an inch at a time) means that we were more than happy to pay. The Cathedral is definitely worth the entry fee and is a marvel to see – a must-see if you are in Valletta!

What is the most impressive house of worship you have visited? How do you feel about paying to enter religious buildings? Let us know your thought and feelings in the comments.

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Modica with the Duomo di San Giorgio

Our initial intention was to stay in the most well-known city in the Valley, Ragusa. However, after finding little accommodation in our price range, we decided to stay in the nearby lesser-known town of Modica. This turned out to a fabulous decision as Modica is a near-perfect base for exploring the region – plus it is an amazing city in its own right!

A view down over the lower town, with the baroque Chiesa di San Pietro

People enjoying one of the myriad of fantastic views!

Feeling much smaller than its reported population of 55,000 people (owing to the fact that many live in “new Modica” just a short distance away), Modica’s old town is situated at the junction of two valleys and split into alta and bassa (upper and lower). As such, the city has only two main streets that run through the small valley bottom, while residential homes and even the city’s large cathedral are built up into the steep hillside. The city’s compactness coupled with the seemingly unending supply of narrow back alleys and secret staircases make the town a new adventure every day.

If you ask any local, they will tell you that Modica is known for two things – chocolate and churches – and this suited us just fine.

Often referred to as the “city of 100 churches” – despite our best efforts we could not confirm nor deny this, but it’s probably true – Modica has some stunning churches, many of which are built into the city, surrounded on all sides by traditional Sicilian stone houses and small shops and seeming to almost disappear into the background. In a city with so many churches, only a small handful really stand out – in particular the large Cathedral of St. George (San Giorgio).

A great view of the town with the Duomo di San Giorgio the dominating feature

The Duomo di San Giorgio

With a majestic curving 250-step staircase leading up to it, the Duomo di San Giorgio is the epitome of Sicilian Baroque splendour, and quite possibly the most beautiful Cathedral we saw in Sicily. Rebuilt following the earthquake in 1693, it stands as a true marvel of engineering, built into the side of the ravine with roads and alleys weaving their way around its enormity. Inside, soft tones made it feel light and airy – a nice change from the hectic interiors found elsewhere in Italy.

After fully exploring the city, from lookout points high in the hills to the compact centre below, and it’s beautiful churches (at least the ones we could find) we were ready to shift gears – the perfect excuse to sample some of Modica’s famous chocolate.

Just some of the amazing flavours you can try!

Many chocolatiers also make amazing desserts – including cannoli

From the first bite we knew there was something different about this chocolate – it was definitely not Purdy’s*. Still made in the traditional Aztec method that was brought to Sicily during it rule under the Spanish, the chocolate is gritty and a definite surprise the first time you bite into it. This is due to the fact that no fats are added and the chocolate is never heated over 40 degrees Celcius. Because of this, the added sugar never dissolves and remains as granules. In fact, the only ingredients you will find in Modican Chocolate are the cocoa beans, sugar, and the flavouring being added.

Many of the best Modican Chocolatiers add ingredients found on the island or traditionally traded products, and thankfully they all seem to provide as many samples as you can handle! Some of our favourites included salt from the Trapani region, orange and lemon peel, chili and white pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg, and Marsala wine.

Perhaps the most unique aspect of the chocolate, and the one that the locals probably love the most, is the fact that it DOES NOT MELT. This is probably nice when it’s 40+ degrees in those summer months and you need a quick pick-me-up.

The brilliantly coloured shutters stand out in the maze of traditional Sicilian stone houses

Laundry hanging up to dry

It was definitely in Modica that our feelings and opinions on Sicily began to shift. While some minor annoyances still bothered us on occasion, we were definitely finding our stride in the Sicilian lifestyle.

Logisitics: Modica is served by buses only (for the most part) from many of the major centres around Sicily. The “old city” is really just one main street surrounded by countless alleys and sidestreets. It would be prudent to have some solid directions, or (like us) have your host meet you! Nearly everything you need can be found on the main street (Corso Umberto 1). The bus “station” can be found on the far “Ragusa” end of Corso Umberto.

Nothing beats a COMPLETE rainbow over town!

*Purdy’s is a Canadian Chocolatier based out of Victoria – if you are EVER in British Columbia you should pick some up!

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Be still my beating heart! A little friend we met along the way.

We were extremely excited about getting out and doing some hiking, and although the weather didn’t always feel like cooperating (such are the perils of traveling in the off-season), we still managed to spend three of our five days trekking gracefully and not-so-gracefully through this unique terrain.

Goreme Open Air Museum

While not technically a hiking area, we would be remiss if we didn’t mention the Goreme Open Air Museum. At it’s core, the museum is simply a fenced off portion featuring the best preserved of the 11th to 13th century cave churches. Many of the churches still feature stunning frescoes and exquisitely preserved wall carvings inside.

One of the cave churches showing the carvings around the entrance

The colourful frescoes inside

We had heard a few negative reviews about the site – mainly having to do with the small area, lack of toilets, and the fairly steep entry fee (15 TL). As we were there on a weekday in the off-season, many of these were non-issues for us. There was one tour bus in the parking and probably only 50 people in the whole site.

Another one of the cave churches

Red and Rose Valley

Probably our favorite hiking trail winds its way through the appropriately named Red and Rose Valleys. Containing countless ancient cave homes for the intrepid adventurer to explore, and set in a valley with colours reminiscent of the US Southwest, this region is a hiker’s dream.

The amazing rock formations in the valley

Cave homes to explore

We spent almost an entire day exploring this area. There are some general paths marked by a combination of trail markers and spray paint, but our enjoyment came from the freedom to explore wherever looked interesting to us. Plus, we made a canine friend in Goreme that decided we were worthy companions and joined us for our entire trip!

The view towards Uchisar Castle from Red Valley

The Red and Rose Valley hike traditionally starts near the Open Air Museum and ends at the nearby city of Cavusin. However, on our particular afternoon, some of the most ominous rain clouds we’ve ever seen started to thunder their way down the valley towards us and we decided to stop about 1km short of Cavusin and follow the main highway back to Goreme, just barely avoiding the impending storm by a few minutes!

The origin of the names, Red and Rose Valley, comes from the amazing colour of the cliffs

Love Valley

Oh Love Valley, the place where inappropriate travel photos come to life. Best known for its, um, “phallic” shaped columns – this is one of the most unique places to hike in the world. That is, if you don’t almost kill yourselves trying to get there (more on that in a later post, but let’s just say you should stick to the roads and paths and not take a shortcut over the ridges).

Love Valley – you can probably guess where the name came from!

Located just a short walk from Goreme, Love Valley is just one in a series of wonderful hiking valleys. Other than the hot air balloon pictures, this valley is probably the most common sight in a Google image search for Cappadocia.

The phallic columns of Love Valley

We spent about half a day exploring Love Valley and the surrounding area – taking funny photos and giggling all the while. It is definitely a place that will bring out your inner child. The hiking in this series of valleys is straightforward and very easy going.

Love valley makes for an easy and interesting hike

Funny pictures are an inevitability!

Around Goreme

If you don’t fancy committing to a longer day, or you aren’t sure the weather is going to hold for long enough, there are some absolutely amazing hikes to do simply by walking to the edges of Goreme. Hiking in the hills, or in one of the nearby valleys (Pigeon, Zemi, etc), can provide you with memories you will never forget. Plus, you can just wander back to town for a tea or some gozleme (aka Turkish Pancakes) whenever you want!

A rainbow just outside Goreme

 No matter how long you are in the region, hiking is one of the things you should make time to do. The landscapes in Cappadocia are truly one-of-a-kind and the hiking is generally straightforward and not very strenuous. As with most hiking, we would not recommend going it alone (especially if you are a female), and always ask your hosts about the areas you are heading to before taking off – many have wonderful insights and are extremely helpful. We also recommend not straying too far from hiking trails and be aware of stray dogs (the vast majority are friendly, but you can never be too sure!). 

Logistics: Hiking is one of the best FREE things to do in Cappadocia. The only place with an entrance fee is the Goreme Open Air Museum (15TL per person). Sometimes the best way to get to a hiking region may be taking a dolmus (i.e. dolmus up and hike back). Just ask your hosts or at the bus station and someone will point you in the right direction!

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A common form of transport in the more rural parts of this region

As you would expect in a bustling city like Brasov, easy and frequent public transport abounds and makes getting to some of the surrounding gems very easy. We met up with our friends Talon and Tigger from 1dad1kid and, after they took time out to give us a great intro to the sights and tastes of the city, set off to see a couple of Romania’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Peles Castle

Castelul Peleș is one of the most visited sites in all of Romania, and one of the most beautiful castles in all of Europe. Built by King Carol I in the beautiful mountain town of Sinaia, the castle is set in an absolutely stunning location. Set in a small clearing in a forest, the castle feels like a true retreat from the hustle and bustle of nearby Brasov or Bucharest.

The castle (it’s really a palace – it’s just called a castle) is truly a work of art. Although we were unable to go inside as it is closed in November, we were absolutely stunned by the exterior of the building. Inaugurated in 1883 and built in a neo-rennaisance style, the exterior is a combination of ornate woodwork and beautifully sculpted stone. To top it all off, an exquisitely maintained garden complete with an an amazing number of statues greets visitors in front of the castle. If that’s not enough for you, right next door is Pelisor Castle (again, not really a castle, but more of a royal chateau), another gorgeous building complete with coloured tile roof.

We took the train from Brasov – probably the easiest option. Prices and times differ depending on the type of train (from 53 mins and 22 RON for an ICN train to 71 mins and 10 RON on a Regio train), and the ride is very scenic. There are a number of other interesting buildings and parks in Sinaia, more than enough to keep you busy for the day. For more info on the Peles Castle, you can check out their website.

 Prejmer Fortified Church

Fortified churches can be found throughout both Romania and the rest of Eastern Europe, but one of the best preserved examples can be found just 16 kilometers from Brasov in the small city of Prejmer. This particular fortified church, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was originally built by the Teutonic Knights in the early 13th  and is a true engineering marvel.

With walls reaching 40 feet in height and 10 feet in thickness, and enough food and accommodation to proved the villagers safe refuge for weeks, the site is truly amazing to experience. Attacked over 50 times and only overrun once, the fortified church provided safety for the villagers in a  very tumultuous period. At the center is the Early Gothic Church of the Holy Cross, built in the traditional shape of a cross. The church itself is very simple inside, but a stunning triptych behind the altar dating back to 1450 is still present.

It was an interesting experience to poke our heads in the different rooms built into the walls and imagine families huddled up inside while the church was under attack.

The Gothic Church within the fortified walls

The easiest option to get to Prejmer is via train. Both state-run and independent trains run to Prejmer and tickets cost about 7 RON. The ride takes approximately 20 minutes. From the station take a right and head down the main street – a 10 minute walk will take you to the church.

Rasnov Citadel

Perhaps the most well-known daytrip from Brasov is a trip to Rasnov Citadel. Located just 16km from Brasov, Rasnov is a rapidly growing small town with a number of sites. The most obvious and well-know of these is Rasnov Citadel. Perched high up on the mountaintop, the Citadel is an imposing site. Originally constructed in the early 13th century, the Citadel has provided sanctuary for many different generations of people from the vicinity and was conquered only once (ironically by the same person, Gabriel Bathory, that conquered Prejmer).

It is a long hike up to the actual Citadel itself, made a bit easier by a tractor-pulled train that takes you a bit of the way. The Citadel is actually in fairly good shape considering its age, and much reconstruction has taken place. Many buildings are intact and it’s great fun to walk (and climb) around the site. The views from the top are breathtaking, especially at sunset!

Again, we took the train to Rasnov. This is the easiest option as the bus doesn’t leave from Brasov’s main station. THe train is run by an independent train company and the schedule can be found here. Tickets cost 4 RON and the ride takes just over 20 minutes. The ticket counter immediately on your left as you enter the Brasov station is the one you want to go to!

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The Eiffel Tower, our first stop

Hotel National des Invalides

Sunset on the River Seine

Over those days we wandered around the magnificent architecture of the Louvre, through the beautiful Tuileries Garden, past the Grande Roue de Paris (aka the giant ferris wheel), across the Place de la Concorde, and along the bustling Champs-Elysees with its enormous Christmas market.

The Louvre by day…

… by evening…

… and by night!

In addition to the major sites, we thoroughly enjoyed wandering through some of Paris’ most charming neighbourhoods like Le Marais and Montmartre with their great Basilicas of Notre Dame and Sacre Coeur towering above their surroundings.

A glimpse of the bell towers of Notre Dame

Details of the cathedral, up close

The gothic interior

La Basilique du Sacre Coeur.

We also made sure to enjoy some of the local – and not so local – fare while in Paris, including macaroons, falafels and spicy Sri Lankan curries!

Expensive macaroons in a store window

Our cheap macaroons from McCafe

 

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7:00 am – Sunrise over the sleeping gondolas

St. Mark’s Square, before the tourists awake

8:00 am – As the sun paints everything golden

A sun-kissed St. Mark’s Basilica

9:45 am – Fish at the daily Rialto Market

A group of gondolas awaiting their passengers

Santa Maria della Salute Church

11:15 am – The busy Rialto Bridge

1:15 pm – One of many hidden side streets

St. Mark’s clock tower overlooks the square

3:00 pm – Boats taking an afternoon siesta

5:30 pm – The sun begins to set

7:45 pm – Gondolas return home for the night

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St. Mark’s Square – beautiful and DRY when we were there!

Luckily we missed this fun (via)

Luckily the rain stayed away, the tides didn’t breech the canal walls, and we had sunny bright blue skies for the duration of our three days in the floating city. Making the most of the sunshine, possibly some of the last we would have for awhile, we spent hours getting lost down narrow streets and exploring as much of the city as possible. However, wrapped up in romantic daydreams and weather concerns there was something I hadn’t accounted for in our visit to Venice – the prices.

The canals

Being one of the top tourist destinations in the world, fifty thousand visitors (on average) flock to Venice per day looking for an injection of arts, culture, and extravagance. However the majority (let’s say 99%) are clearly not on a backpacker’s budget, or any budget, as evident by the abundance of high end hotels, swanky restaurants, and tourists carting around multiple Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Missoni shopping bags.

Many of the old buildings and palaces are now hotels

Sunset in Venice – the stuff of Romance

Although we were able to avoid the luxury designer stores (they likely wouldn’t have let us in with our backpaker attire anyway) we found the prices for everyday goods as inflated as the hotel rooms and gondola rides, and naively experienced some serious sticker shock when faced with risotto for eighteen dollars per person. However it turns out that residents are also struggling to keep up with these rising prices and are deserting the city at a rate of 2000 people per year. It’s estimated that by 2064, the city will essentially be a ghost town without any permanent residents – a sinking Disneyland of sorts.

Doge’s Palace – once the most powerful seat in the Republic

In the few grocery stores that still haunt the island we found some deals – one Euro beer, buns and mortadella for a few euros, and quality dark chocolate for a fair price, all the components of a balanced diet; however, looking for affordable restaurants or internet access revealed itself to be completely futile.

The glittering mosaics of St. Mark’s Cathedral

While it might be overrun with tourists and extremely expensive, there’s no denying the beauty of the city. There’s a reason it has earned a spot among lists of the most romantic and beautiful cities on Earth. The narrow streets and canals, especially at night, are magical to wander around, and the Piazza San Marco is the ultimate reminder of the power and opulence that the Most Serene Republic of Venice enjoyed for over 800 years. In the end, three days probably wasn’t enough to see all the sites that we wanted to, but was about all that our budget could endure.

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Amalfi and the coastal road

The city of Amalfi

The facade of the Amalfi Cathedral

Original frescoes in the Cloister of Paradise

Painted ceilings in the Crypt of St. Andrew

The interior of the “new” Basilica

The Romanesque Belltower

The tour group singing in the Crypt of St. Andrew

The understated Duomo of Ravello

The 13th century Villa Rufolo

Vineyards in Ravello

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Our favorite off-the-beaten-path attractions in Rome

Centrale Montemartini

Part of the Capitoline Museums, this exhibition is housed in a former thermoelectric plant (Rome’s first electrical plant), creating a spectacular juxtaposition of industrial architecture and classical sculpture. Although originally intended to act as a temporary home to hundreds of Roman sculptures, it now hosts a permanent exhibition as well as regularly rotating exhibitions and events. While museums aren’t usually my first choice to fill a day, this one is spectacular and so empty you’ll likely have the place to yourself. Better still, the entire museum can easily be covered in an hour or two and the setup provides for some wonderful photo opportunities.

Pale sculpture placed in front of the building’s industrial infrastructure

A large turbine in the museum

The building is visually stunning on its own

A fractured sculpture is now housed before a large piece of black and copper machinery

Logistics: Admission to the Montemartini Museum is 6.50 Euro/person (combination tickets available with other Capitoline Museums). To get here take the metro to Piramide or Garbatella station, the museum is just a short walk away (address on the museum website)

San Clemente Basilica

On its own the Basilica of San Clemente, dating back to the 11th century, would be a worthy stop, with it’s byzantine mosaics, gilded alter, and intricately tiled floor. However, like everything in Rome it’s built on top of something else; San Clemente not only houses a 4th century basilica underneath its foundation but also a house and temple from the 1st century further down and remains below that dating back to the 2nd century BC. Excavations of the basilica, house (with flowing spring water), and temple are largely complete and open to visitors. Just blocks from the Colosseum, it’s incredible this site isn’t overrun with tourists.

Beautiful mosaic work in the current Basilica

Original frescoes in the 4th century Basilica

The 4th Century Basilica excavation

Logistics: Admission to St. Clement Basilica is 5 Euro/person. Located just off of Piazza San Clemente, 5 minute walk from the Colosseum. For more information visit the basilica’s website.

The Capuchin Crypts

Gaining in popularity after appearing in Rick Steeve’s 2012 guide to Rome, the entrance fee appears to have increased, however at 6 Euros/person it’s still a great deal and includes access to a fully refurbished museum on the history of the Capuchin Monks. As for the crypts, they are by far the most bizarre thing we’ve ever seen. Comprised of six small rooms located underneath the church, the crypt contains the remains of four thousand bodies – believed to be Capuchin Monks – arranged in intricate patterns along the walls, ceiling, and floor. Completely creepy, the history of the crypts is also extremely interesting and the location, in the heart of Via Veneto and La Dolce Vita, can’t be beat.

The number of skulls and bones is off putting

I tried not to breathe the air, doing so just felt wrong

In some areas the bones are simply stacked as though there were nowhere else to put them

Logistics: Admission to the Cripta Capuccini is 6 Euro/person. Barberini is the closest metro stop, however easily accessible by foot as well and the area is well suited to a nice stroll. The church has a website but it appears to be offered in only Italian.

Now you know how we escaped the tourist trail for a few hours in Rome and hopefully have a new site (or three) to check out on your next visit. One of the wonderful things about a city like Rome, with so much history and culture, is that hidden attractions like these are everywhere, waiting to be discovered, and with a little research travelers can find their own way to get off the beaten path.

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Greek antiquities and sculpture in the Vatican Museum

Gorgeous paintings and detail

Domed ceiling in the museum

Mosaics cover the floors in the museum

Ancient Egyptian sculpture

Roman bronze statue

Fresco in the one of the Raphael Rooms

Bernini’s masterpiece – St. Peter’s Square

Nuns at the Papal Address

The rosary for Nonna at the Papal Address

The Papal Address

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