A subsidiary of the Canadian Pacific Railway, the Kettle Valley Railway operated in the Thompson-Okanagan region of British Columbia, and provided a much needed rail link to the coast and Vancouver for the cities of Southern BC. The line initially opened in 1915, however portions of the railway were abandoned as early as 1961 due to washouts and a decline in traffic. All rail service stopped from Midway to Penticton, through the Okanagan and the famed Myra Canyon section of the line, in 1973, with the final segments of line falling into disuse in 1989. Today much of the railroad’s original route has been converted into a recreational trail, known as the Kettle Valley Rail Trail. With its relatively gentle grade, the line has become a hiker and cyclist haven.

Featuring 18 trestles and 2 tunnels that traverse the deep canyon, the Myra Canyon section of the Kettle Valley Railway not only one of the most impressive parts of this historic railway line, it’s also easily accessible from the city of Kelowna, BC – a major hub in the Okanagan region – making it an ideal daytrip for locals and visitors alike. The area was also designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 2002.

From downtown Kelowna, the Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park is a short 25 minute drive up into the surrounding hillside through rolling vineyards and past several amazing lookout points. The road is partially paved, while the last eight kilometers are grated dirt road and quite rugged. As such, a vehicle with a higher clearance is recommended (our SUV worked well). Although we did see many cars make the trip, slower driving is a must to ensure you don’t bottom out on some of the bigger potholes. As for signage, the road is clearly marked with blue signs directing visitors to the Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park and making navigation simple.

Upon arrival at Myra-Bellevue we had a decision to make, pull into the first park entrance (West) or deal with the dirt road for a few more kilometers to access the second entrance (East). We opted for the East entrance, only because I vaguely recalled a recommendation in my pre-trip research. This worked well as there are numerous wooden trestles immediately upon entering the trail from this end. The East parking lot is also quite large, making it the best bet for peak-season summer visitors. In the end either entrance will get you into the park, so it’s not something to really worry about too much. Don’t panic if you see the entrance signs and don’t know what to do, either option will get you to your goal.

With numerous trestles, tunnels, and some incredible views of Kelowna and the surrounding hillside, the park is incredibly scenic and there is always something to grab your attention. For me, the dry, desert sections of the trail felt like I was pedaling through the Wild West, and the wooden trestles only elevated this sensation.

In August 2003, lightning sparked a fire in the nearby mountainside. The fire grew rapidly in strength and size and engulfed many portions of the Kettle Valley Railway between Penticton and McCulloch Lake. When the fire was extinguished over a month later, 12 of the 18 trestles within Myra Canyon were lost, as well as countless homes in the area. The B.C provincial government announced that it would rebuild the damaged and destroyed trestles and bridges, a process that took the better part of a year and saw additional safety improvements undertaken as well. The trestles have since been completed and the trail is fully open to the public. Despite the reconstruction evidence of the fire is still visible, with many badly charred trees still standing, slowly being overtaken by new growth along the forest floor.

For some reason, prior to our visit, I was under the impression that the trail was 8km in length (16 km round trip) however after cycling for an hour or so we realized this portion of the Kettle Valley Railway stretches for 12km between the park’s East and West entrances, making for a 24 km round trip. Although quite a bit longer than we had bargained for, we were still able to finish the loop in two and a half hours of cycling – which includes more than a few interruptions to stop and take photos. I’d recommend that new visitors allow 3-4 hours to cycle the trail, and 6-7 to walk. However by no means do you have to complete the entire loop to have a great experience. Entering from the east, it’s possible to cover multiple trestles and the first of two tunnels in only a few kilometers, making it a good option for those under tight time constraints. Alternatively, using a shuttle service or a friend from the area, entering from one end and getting picked up at the other would eliminate the need to turn around and backtrack.

As the trail incorporates the same path the old railway lines once laid on, the ride (or hike) only consists of a 4% grade in the steepest sections, and this makes for a very pleasant bike ride. It also means that the trail is perfect for people of any biking level – we saw everyone from kids to seniors making the ride.

Regardless of how you plan to take on the Myra Canyon trail, the trestles and tunnels, combined with the stunning scenery, are incredibly unique and unlike anything else you’ll see in the world. As far as day trips go, this is one you won’t soon forget.

Logistics: As a provincial park, entrance to Myra-Bellevue is free. Bike rentals are available at the East entrance. The park has a few pit-style outhouse toilets as well as a number of benches scattered along the trail which are great for a rest or picnic lunch. Due to the park’s high elevation, the temperature here tends to be a few degrees cooler than in the city, therefore dressing in layers is recommended.  Visitors should pack plenty of water as it’s easy to get dehydrated while hiking or biking. The best time to visit the park is during the warm summer months from midway through June until September. To keep up to date on closures and events in the park visit the BC Parks website. 

The post Cycling Myra Canyon appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

Clearing skies at the picturesque Cliffs of Moher

Rising over 120 meters above the Atlantic Ocean, the cliffs are a world-famous attraction drawing in nearly one million visitors a year and are part of The Burren Geopark UNESCO natural protected area. Which is really just travel-speak for “these cliffs are mind-blowingly beautiful and deservedly one of Ireland’s best attractions”.

Seeing as our visit was part of a day tour, we enjoyed a relaxing drive through the acclaimed regions of Ballyvaughan and the Burren, which are comprised of martian landscapes, rugged shoreline, and over 6000 years of history.

We also managed to squeeze in a couple stops before reaching the cliffs. We began with a stop in the small seaside village of Kinvara to see the amazing Dunguaire Castle. Perched spectacularly on the water’s edge, the castle dates back to the 16th century and is thought to be the most photographed castle in Ireland.

Admiring the Irish countryside

Traditional thatched roof houses in The Burren region

Dunguaire Castle on a clear winter morning

Our next stop was the 13th century Corcomroe Abbey, a crumbling Cistercian monastery that is nearly as photogenic as the hairy cows and sheep that wander its grounds. After getting our fill of photos, we made a quick stop for an Irish coffee (to warm up) before setting off in search of some neolithic history.

With human habitation dating back more than 6000 years, the Burren is rich with interesting archaeological sites. As we were making good time, we decided to make two stops before lunch, the first of which was Cahermore Ring Fort. In all, the Burren contains more than 400 of these circular remains, with Cahermore being one of the oldest and best preserved. Dating back to approximately 500 AD, the fort provided protection from the elements and wildlife (there were even bears back then!). It was an absolutely amazing site to walk through.

Corcomroe Abbey is hauntingly beautiful

Cahermore Ring Fort, a 3000 year old residence

The Poulnabrone dolmen, a neolithic burial tomb

Our final stop before lunch was perhaps the most intriguing. The Poulnabrone dolmen is a neolithic portal tomb that dates back to somewhere between 4200 and 2900 BCE. I always struggle to fully grasp how old a site is. Unlike other forms of measurement, time is so very difficult to put into context and looking at anything older than a couple hundred years in comparison to the meager amount of time’s I’ve circumvented the sun doesn’t really register. Therefore, when standing alongside a neolithic burial tomb that was built well over 5,000 years ago (or roughly 192 of my own lifetimes) it was difficult to wrap my head around life during this time.

Luckily, with just a few clicks and choice words online I was able to add at least a bit of context to our day. During the period in which the Neolithic temple and circle were built:

• the first bluestones at Stonehenge begin to be raised (3000 BC);
• the Mayan calendar starts on August 11, 3114 BC (the same calendar that had everyone worried the world would end in 2012);
• construction of the Ggantija megalithic temple complex begins on the island of Gozo, Malta (3600 BC);
• the first neolithic settlers arrive in the island of Thira (Santorini), Greece (4000 BC).

And while the wheel had already been invented, and the Mesopotamian civilization was flourishing along the Nile, the Neolithic remains in Ireland are part of a handful of still-intact sites scattered across Europe, the Middle East, and Asia that can still be explored today.

Dark clouds moving in? We must be in Ireland!

Cutting and moving these stones would have been back breaking work

However as impressively old as these Neolithic sites are, in the end they couldn’t stand up to the Cliffs of Moher – which also happen to contain evidence of 300 million year-old river channels cutting through their rocky foundations, making the cliffs 60,000 times older than the Neolithic tombs and eleven and a half million times older than myself (also known as too old for this method to provide any form of context).

While Ireland is brimming with charming towns painted in rich hues and lush rolling hills crisscrossed by endless miles of short stone walls, a visit to Ireland feels incomplete until you’ve taken in the stunning Cliffs of Moher.

The Cliffs in all their glory – from sea to sky!

Quintessentially Irish, the rugged rock cliffs rise in a dramatic fashion from the deep blue water below, while and the crashing waves send wisps of mist up and over the cliff face and into the faces of the unsuspecting visitors above. Complete with a charming castle, officially called O’Brien’s Tower and built in 1835 to impress female visitors, and stunning vistas, the Cliffs of Moher are picturesque and incredibly romantic, especially at sunset.

In the harsh sunlight the Cliffs appear to stretch on forever

O’Brien’s Tower, impressing the fairer sex since 1835

The Cliffs of Moher at sunset are the epitome of romantic – minus the rain and bone chilling wind

We spent nearly two and a half hours wandering along the cliffs – marveling at the power of the waves crashing and the wind gusting. Even at the top, nearly 200 meters above the crashing waters below we could feel the sea mist against our face and smell the salty sea below.

If you haven’t had the privileged of visiting the cliffs in person, you may have marveled at their beauty without even knowing it as they have made appearances in several blockbuster films – most notably The Princess Bride and Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince. However, even if you’ve snuggled in with a bowl of popcorn to enjoy one of these movies, we’d still highly recommend a visit to the cliffs to take in their majesty in person.

Logistics: Although far from the regular tour-bus type, after finding some success with something similar in Gozo, Malta, and realizing there was little way for us to reach Ireland’s more secluded sites without renting a car (and driving on the wrong left side of the road), we decided to hop aboard and explore both the Giant’s Causeway (from Belfast) and the Cliffs of Moher a few days later (from Galway).

The post A History Lesson at the Cliffs of Moher appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

As most of our travel occurs in the (far) off season, when locals in the countries we visit are leaving for warmer weather and customs agents greet us with confused looks as we try to enter their country, we have faced plenty of less-than-perfect days. Days with poor visibility, unbearable humidity, and torrential downpours are just part and parcel of making your way around the world. If we made it a habit to wait for perfect weather we’d still be sitting in Iceland waiting for a clear and rain-free day. None of the bad weather we’d encountered on our previous travels could have prepared us for what we experienced during our visit to the British Isles this February.

A few years ago, with the invention of Pinterest, and the resulting end of my social-life, I first stumbled onto a picture of the Giant’s Causeway. One of Northern Ireland’s most beloved treasures, the Causeway is a natural formation of hexagonal basalt columns that form what appears like stepping stones from the steep shoreline cliffs into the sea. While the formation of these unique rock columns is attributed to volcanic activity in the area 50 to 60 million years ago, at the time all I knew was that it looked beautiful and I needed to see it for myself.

After years of dreaming about visiting Ireland and the Giant’s Causeway, Travis and I found ourselves aboard a discounted flight to Belfast, and my dreams of visiting the causeway began to come together. Unfortunately, there was one aspect of our visit that we couldn’t account for – the weather.

Spoiler Alert! It rained during our visit – a lot

As we were visiting during winter it only makes sense that the weather at the causeway would be less than desirable; however as we set out from Belfast the sun was peaking out from behind a few scattered clouds and we crossed our fingers that the rain would hold. A couple hours later we found ourselves staggering across the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, a stones throw from the causeway, with only a few scattered clouds. We spent about 30 minutes hiking along the cliffs near the bridge and even had time to make the nerve-wracking 20 meter walk across the bridge itself. Set nearly 100 feet above the crashing waves below, salmon fisherman used the bridge, which only had one rope railing at the time, to transport their daily catches back to the mainland for over 350 years.

By the time we reached the Giant’s Causeway, just a brief 30 minutes after leaving Carrick-a-Rede, the wind had picked up and fat raindrops were beginning to fall. What happened next nearly blew us away – literally. Harsh winds made it increasingly difficult to stand atop the hexagonal rock columns of the causeway, enormous waves over ten feet high smashed against the shore, and heavy rainfall soaked the poor visitors fully exposed on the rocky shoreline – including us!

The rain was so severe that my camera struggled to focus at times, and after clearing the water from my lens I raised it up to only have more drops collect before I could even snap a shot. Needless to say we didn’t return home with many photos, and the ones we did manage to take are covered with blurred water marks.

Although our visit to the causeway was a bit disappointing, after waiting so long to visit it was saddening we couldn’t really explore the stones and venture out further towards the sea, in the end we were still able to see this beautiful site and fulfill another of our travel dreams.

Here’s a little snippet of our stormy day at the causeway.

Logistics: Reaching the causeway without a car is nearly impossible and as we didn’t want to drive on the left side of the road, we opted to join a bus tour with Paddywagon Tours. The tour includes a stop at Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge.

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The ferry between Malta and Gozo

Unfortunately the day we chose for our daytrip to Gozo was gloomy and cold, a striking contrast to the brilliant balmy temperatures of the three days previous. With the poor weather overhead and fatigue setting in we decided to try something new and jump aboard a hop-on, hop-off bus to tour the island – an abrupt departure from our usual travel style.

Xewkija Rotunda Church dominates the skyline of Gozo

Prior to Gozo, I didn’t really get bus tours – hop on/off tours in particular. It seems that every city we’ve visited, large or small, has been overtaken by the obnoxious red double-decker buses, filled with people awkwardly straining to snap photographs or looking completely bored. Worse still, these stupid buses always seem to find a way into my photographs, usually smack dab in front of the site or monument I’m trying to capture. With these thoughts in mind, I had my trepidations about hopping aboard something I had developed such a distaste for.

So why did we even entertain the idea?

As it turns out, we are always up for a new experience, and after looking up the Gozo bus schedule (it was a Sunday, which meant reduced winter frequencies) we decided the hop on/off bus would be a great way to save time, and would ultimately be an easier transportation system for our overworked brains to sort out. However what sealed the deal was the reduced off-season price we were offered which worked out to half of the regular rate. We knew we wouldn’t find a better chance to try the hop on/off system.

The National Shrine of the Blessed Virgin of Ta’Pinu – a Maltese pilgrimage site

For such a small island, only 67 square kilometers, Gozo still has a long list of sites to take in, including one of the oldest temples in the entire world – even older than the Pyramids or Stonehenge. In the summertime, Gozo is a popular daytrip destination for people visiting or living in Malta, in the off-season it’s much quieter, and on a Sunday in January it’s basically a ghost-town. This suited us just fine!

Our first stop of the day was the capital city of Victoria – also called Rabat – which can be somewhat confusing as Rabat is also the name of the former capital city of mainland Malta. For a capital, the city is quite small with little to see aside from the enormous Citadella and Cathedral of Assumption. The Citadella is more like a fortified town, and offers amazing views over the city and much of the island. After exploring the walls and alleyways of the Citadella (mass was currently underway inside) it was time to hop back aboard the bus – and just in time too as the rain picked up.

The view over Rabat (Victoria) from the Citadella

After Victoria, we made our way to the Azure Window, a spectacular naturally occurring rock formation that has been used in filming the HBO series Game of Thrones. This amazing natural arch set in Dwerja Bay measures nearly 75 feet tall and is absolutely breathtaking. However, each year it disintegrates more and more, and it will one day collapse – so get there to see it soon! Despite its popularity, the “window” is not the only attraction in the area – the nearby inland sea and blue hole are popular diving sites – it is pretty impressive and would likely only be more so on a sunny day. Travis also had fun examining and taking photos of a rare medicinal plant that only grows on the nearby “fungus rock”. It was said that the Knights Hospitaller guarded this plant so fiercely that anyone caught stealing it was subject to execution!

The world famous Azure Window

Dwerja Bay and the Fungus Rock

Before wrapping up our tour of Gozo we made one final stop and stepped back in time at the UNESCO Heritage site of Ggantija. Officially referred to as a Neolithic Megalithic temple complex, Ggantija’s temples date back to 3600-2500BC and are the earliest of a series of megalithic temples in Malta; At more than 5,500 years old, they are not only older than the pyramids of Egypt but also currently the world’s second oldest man-made religious structures (after  Gobekli Tepe in Turkey).

Ggantija’s 20 foot high outer walls – built more than 5500 years ago!

Although some of the temple complex has collapsed, a large part of it still remains intact, and it is mind boggling to think of these huge stones being pushed, pulled, and forced into place. The side-by-side temples forma clover shape, and at their highest the temples measure in at nearly 20 feet. Even more impressive might be the large perfectly circular holes that were cut through four of the large stone slabs to hold wooden beams. By hand. Over 5,000 years ago.

The structure is strengthened by scaffolding as they determine the best way to stabilize the temples

My personal favorite part of exploring Ggantija was trying to make out the graffiti names and initials carved into the stones. Apparently, during the 1800’s it was “hip” and “cool” for tourists (yes, there were tourists here in the 1800s) to leave their mark at the sites they visited, in this case by carving into the ancient stones. Although no one would ever consider doing something so damaging today, it’s actually pretty interesting today to be able to see this historical record of early visitors to the site.

“Graffiti” from the first tourists

After packing a lot of sightseeing into one day, we were ready to board the ferry back to Malta. Tired and worn out, we were also really impressed with the quality of attractions on offer in Gozo. For my money, a trip to Malta isn’t complete without a visit to Gozo. At the very least it will offer a change of pace from the big island.

The Gozitan countryside is stunning

Churches, shrines, and religious statues dominate every corner of the island

Logistics:  You can reach the Malta ferry terminal (Cirkewwa) via bus 41/42 from Valletta or bus 222 from Sliema. The ferry costs 4.65 Euro return (which you pay before getting on your return trip in Gozo). A day pass on the public bus in Gozo costs 2.60 Euro. The sightseeing bus we took cost us 15 Euro total (this is half the price that it normally goes for – due in part to our humming and hawing and in part to it being a gloomy day with about 15 independent tourists on our entire ferry!).

One of the best features of the hop on/off buses is their open-air, double-decker design which allows visitors a unique perspective of the surrounding city. Ironically, due to the poor weather during our visit to Gozo, this was one feature we weren’t able to take full advantage of. However, being stubborn to the core, we braved the elements atop the bus whenever possible and faked enjoyment while raindrops pelted our faces. While I’m still not completely sold on hop on/off tours, for difficult to navigate cities or those with poor public transit it may serve a purpose. However there are definitely better, more in-depth, and cheaper ways to explore a destination. 

Have you ever gone on one of these tours? Did you like it? Hate it? Let us know about times you did something out of character on your travels in the comments!

The post Gozo – A Busy Day on a Small Island appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

When we boarded the bus from Valletta we weren’t sure if the little town of less than 4,000 people would live up to what we had seen (Pinterest does have a way of building places up). Would the boats be out even in winter? Would places be open for lunch so we could get a taste of the famous seafood? These questions were swirling around our head right until we got off the bus. With one turn of the corner all our questions were answered.

A beautiful door that caught our attention on the way into town

A big smile grew on Calli’s face, and I knew the day was going to be great. The boats were out and just as beautiful as we imagined, the restaurants on the promenade were setting out menu-boards and putting down tablecloths, and two kite-boarders were even braving the wind and waves!

Colouful Maltese fishing boats bobbing in the rough seas

The perfect promenade that runs all the way around the bay.

Smaller boats lined up along the promenade

Although there isn’t a ton to see or do in Marsaxloxx, what is available was enough to keep us occupied for more than a few hours. After pausing to take a few dozen pictures of the colourful boats bobbing in the harbour, we walked along the promenade- the wind whipping at our faces and salty sea-spray in the air. May local fisherman were out painting and making repairs on their beautiful boats.

Two fisherman making repairs to their boats

One of the boats out of the water for repairs

The stars of the city are undoubtedly these Maltese fishing boats – known locally as Luzzus. Their design is very unique, dating back to Phoenician times, and consists of high, pointed tips at both ends, bright colours, and a pair of eyes painted on the bow. This design has survived for so long because it is very stable even in rough seas.

Once we’d thoroughly seen the harbour, we turned our attention to selecting a place to sample the catch of the day. Today, Marsaxloxx is overflowing with fresh seafood restaurants; however, this wasn’t always the case. To cope with the influx of tourists visiting on daytrips, a plethora of new seafood restaurants have popped up along the harbour – many of which are owned and operated by the families of local fishermen.

One of the creative sign-boards we saw on the promenade

Another view of the bay

We chose a small family-run place and settled in for some of the fresh and local fare. For less than $20 we managed to get fresh fish, squids, shrimps, and some chips – they were all amazing! With our bellies full, we set back out to get a few more photos before hopping back onto the bus for the ride back to Valletta.

 Logistics: Marsaxlokk can be reached from Valletta via bus 81 or 85. There is a ton of restaurants all along the promenade and on the backstreets. Sundays are particularly popular as there is a fish market in the bay where you can purchase fresh seafood from the fisherman and get local restaurants to cook up your score for you! 

Sharing over at the Sunday Traveler this week!

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The fact that Sicily is home to Greek ruins really shouldn’t be a surprise – after all the Island was once a critical and important component of the Greek Empire at its height. However, what may be surprising is the quantity and quality of these ruins – many of which stand today in the Sicilian countryside – uncovered, unprotected, and dwarfing even the tallest of Olive trees.

The site with the Temple of Concordia in the background

Of these ruins, the most important and impressive of these sites is unquestionably the series of temples found outside the modern day city of Agrigento. Collectively referred to as the Valley of the Temples (or Valle dei Templi in Italian) this grouping of incredibly well-preserved ruins is all that remains of the ancient city of Akragas and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As one of the most important cities in Magna Graecia (the region of Greece found on the coastal areas of modern-day Italy), Akragas was a rich and prosperous city – a fact evident today in the stunning temples that adorn the modern-day archaeological site.

A smooth 2 hour train ride from Palermo drops you off in the modern, bustling city of Agrigento, where city buses make the 4 km journey to the site regularly. We only caught glimpses of the temples as our bus weaved through the thick traffic that seems to plague the city at all hours, but it was enough to know that we’d made a good choice.

The “Temple of Castor and Pollux” sits almost completely in ruins

Upon entering the site, we were greeted by the majestic Temple of Concordia – one of the best preserved Greek temples in the world. With the majority of its columns still intact, visitors can also observe a series of arches that were later added to convert the temple to a Christian church.

The Temple of Concordia with a modern sculpture in the foreground

During our visit in early January, the site was nearly deserted – we were among a handful of other visitors, many of which seemed to spend their time solely in and around the Temple of Concordia. However there is so much more to see than this one, very impressive, temple. In fact, there are at least four partially remaining temples and even more laying in complete ruin. We particularly enjoyed wandering through the ruins of the Temple of Juno, humming the theme song from Indiana Jones with no one around. The lack of people also allowed for some great photo opportunities.

The partially intact Temple of Juno

For anyone visiting Sicily, the Valley of the Temples is a must see and a great daytrip from Palermo, or any of the other neighboring cities. Perhaps the most intriguing feature of the Valley of the Temples is the fact that almost all of the surrounding city of Akragas remains unexcavated. Who knows what might await an archaeologist’s lucky spade?

Another view of the site

Have you ever visited Agrigento, or any of Italy’s other amazing archaeological sites? Which one is YOUR favorite? Let us know in the comments!

Logisitcs: Agrigento is reachable from Palermo by both bus and train (2hrs), and from many other cities via bus. The Valley of the Temples is about 4km out of town – probably too far for all but an early morning walk – but easy via bus. To get to the bus station from the train station, exit the front doors and take a left, walking up about three blocks until you reach Piazzale Rosselli – you can’t miss it. A kiosk at one end sells tickets and can help you with which bus to take (#1, #2, or #3 will get you there). Entrance to the site is 10 Euro (or 13.50 if you want to go to the Archaeological Museum as well). More info on the site can be found here.

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So, with Calli in need of some clothes shopping, I decided to take a daytrip to Plzen. Located just 90km from Prague, it is the fourth largest city in the Czech Republic and is known the world round as the place where Pilsner beer was invented by what is now the Pilsner Urquell Brewery.

My goal…the Pilsner Urquell Brewery

9:00 – A short ride on the metro has left me just enough time to buy my ticket, grab a drink and a snack, and help a lost fellow traveler before hopping on the (surprisingly) empty train heading to Munich (interestingly named the “Franz Kafka”). Costs – Ticket 100 CZK; Drink/snack 30 CZK

10:50 – I catch a quick glance of the Brewery as the train pulls into Plzen’s main station. Just a short walk later I am walking through the famous Brewery Gate (the one on the logo on every bottle or can they make) and into the brewery grounds. I confirm the 12:45 start time and buy my ticket. Costs: 190 80 CZK (the girl at the counter – who turns out to be my guide too – tells me I look “close enough” to a student and gives me the discount!)

The famous brewery gate

The doors to the visitor centre

11:00 – With my stomach growling I follow the well-signed path to the old town and wander around the massive St. Batholemew’s Cathedral, through the bustling Christmas in the main square, and eventually find a small Chinese place that looks packed to have a bite. Costs: 80 CZK for a meal so big that I almost don’t finish it – that’s a rarity – and a drink)

Colourful architecture around the main square

12:15 – After checking out the football field (FC Viktoria Plzen – a team we saw play all the way back in Madrid), I arrive back at the brewery grounds and have a quick poke around the shop – scoping out the perfect memento in the process. I make a mental note and head to the start of the tour.

Our group beginning the tour

1:00 – After a brief delay because the tour group ahead of us has been taking too long, we are given an intro to Pilsner Urquell and the history of Pilsner beer. We hop into a bus, yes a bus – that’s how big the brewery is, and a short ride drops us off at the modern state-of-the-art bottling facility.

The new state-of-the-art bottling facility

The production lines

1:15 – I am absolutely blown away with how fast they produce the beer – they can make 120 000 bottles, 41 000 cans, 12 000 plastic bottles, and a crap-ton of kegs every hour! The bottling machinery is fascinating.

1:30 Another bus ride has led me to the largest elevator in Czech Republic. So large that I didn’t realize we were standing in it until it started moving…apparently I wasn’t the only one! I am now in the “old” brewery. It hasn’t been functional since their last update, but it has since been converted to a movie theater and interactive display.

The old brewery

1:40 A movie plays on a screen while we circle “Jurassic Park” style on a rotating platform. I am pretty familiar with the brewing process in general, but the movie is cool nonetheless. After it finishes I follow as we meander through the interactive portion of the “old brewery” – here you can taste the barley, malted barley, water, hops, etc. that go into the brewing process.

1:50 We enter the “new” brewery and learn about the brewing process – since the Czech Republic has Purity Laws similar to Germany (that means beer can only have malt, yeast, hops, and water – no Rogue Chipotle Ale or the like) , I find it amazing the different range of flavours Czech lagers display!

The similarly designed new brewery…just run by computers!

2:10 A short walk has led us to the real reason to come on the tour – the underground cellars and the beer tasting. This part of the brewery is a remnant from the earliest days of Pilsner Urquell when the beer was stored in barrels in the ingeniously designed cellar. Carved out of the rock under the brewery by hand, the cellars are just for show these days – well, almost. They still divert a small amount of their delicious beer to age in these barrels and to grace the grateful lips of patrons that visit the brewery – eager patrons like me!

The underground cellars – home to the good stuff

2:15 Our delightful guide pours me a big glass of frothy, unfiltered, unpasteurized Pilsner Urquell (this is the only place where you can get it!). I am intrigued to find that some of the people on the tour don’t like beer – I am curious as to why they came on a “brewery” tour, but those thoughts are pushed from my mind when I taste the beer. I finish my glass and watch some of the other people.

The good stuff!

2:30 My guide, standing beside me, states “Well, I am going to have another” and asks if I want another. “Sure” I reply. Myself and another two guys that are traveling on our own make our way past the oblivious group and back into the cellars. Our guide teaches us how to pour from the tapped barrel, and we enjoy one (read: two) more glasses. Fully satisfied that I got my money’s worth, we exit the cellars and the tour is over.

2:40 With a few minutes left before I need to make my way back to the station, I dart into the gift shop and buy myself a Christmas present – a beautiful beer stein. Cost: 180 CZ

3:00 I make it back to the station with minutes to spare and find my train home – with just enough time in between to grab a (well-deserved) snack. Costs: Ticket – 100 CZK; Snack – 30 CZK

All in all, I would rank this as one of my most enjoyable experiences traveling without Calli. The day was smooth and relaxing, and I couldn’t wait to walk in the door and tell here every detail about what I did.

Total Costs: 600 CZK (or around $30)…not bad for a fun daytrip!

Do you travel with a significant other? Do you take time apart every once in a while, or do you have another way of resetting yourself and finding time for yourself while you’re on the road? What is your favorite brewery? Let me know all your thoughts in the comments!

The post Travis goes to Plzen…by Himself! appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

Fethiye would serve as the first stop of our 5 day mini vacation (in search of beaches and shopping we later moved on to Antalya). A popular destination for Brits in the Spring and Summer, Fethiye is known for its warm climate, access to ancient Lycian ruins, endless stretches of beach, and its proximity to Rhodes. However in December the city was all but deserted, with only locals and year-round expats milling about.

The marina is quiet this time of year

The almost deserted boardwalk

After stepping off the bus at 7am, we were picked up by the owner of our hotel, a chipper retired doctor (Dr. Can) who insisted on showing us the city, by car and on foot, before allowing us to crawl into bed. We were treated like family, and Dr. Can pointed out the best places to visit, walk, swim, and eat. Seeing as we arrived on a Sunday, and our room was equipped with a kitchen, we decided to make our way to the local produce market for some breakfast and groceries – the nap we so badly wanted would have to wait, again. After exploring the market and refueling with some delicious Turkish pancakes and fresh pomegranate juice, we headed home, the bags in our hands overflowing with fresh fruit, vegetables and local cheese; enough food to last us three days for the bargain price of just $5 CAD.

Fresh fruit and veggies overflowing in the market

A pile of turnip-like root vegetables

Mmmm breakfast!

Now that’s a lot of cheese!

Even though we wanted nothing more to sleep and catch up on our blogging duties during our three days in Fethiye, the good doctor had another idea. On our first day in the city, he insisted on leading us into his car for a personal tour of the surrounding hillsides. Our first stop of the day was a small beach, popular with locals in the summer but deserted in the off-season; with the exception of two men working at a small convenience stand and a lazy dog sleeping in the sun, we were the only people on the beautiful beach.

Such a beautiful beach – we love the orange cliffs and bright blue water

As the sun beat down and the water, swimmable by Canadian standards, crashed against the shoreline we wanted nothing more than to jump in and go for a swim. If only we’d remembered to bring our bathing suits. Apparently just last year, Demi Moore (vacationing aboard a yacht) had this same beach shut down for the evening so she and her posse could dine uninterrupted by the common folk.

Fethiye from the hillside

After marveling at the stunning sky-blue coloured water and orange hued cliffs, we regretfully loaded back into the car and set off for our second destination, the abandoned town of Karakoy. As it turns out, the doctor had a few tricks up his sleeve, one of which was a hidden admission free entrance to the deserted city.

Crumbling ruins, portions of the exterior paint are still visible

Once a thriving Greek city of about 2000 called Karmylissos, the city was transformed into a ghost town during the Greek-Turkish population exchange in 1923. Around 500 buildings remain today in varying levels of decay – including two Greek Orthodox churches. We wandered around the ruins for about an hour, marveling at the speed at which mother nature was reclaiming the abandoned buildings, and attempting to visually reconstruct the buildings using our imagination.

The largest intact building we found – unfortunately it was closed for repairs

A portion of the sprawling ruins

After a filling lunch of (more) homemade Turkish pancakes (we finally got to try a sweet one made with sweetened and thinned Tahina), we hit our third stop of the day, the Blue Lagoon near Oludeniz. After weaving our way down towards the water, we were greeted with one of the most spectacular beaches we had ever seen. And we had it all to ourselves (save for a couple friendly fishermen). Set in a secluded cover, the beach is set in protected nature reserve and construction is thankfully prohibited.

A gorgeous stretch of beach – the lagoon is tucked in behind at the far end

We wandered along the long pebbled beach on one side of the small peninsula, watching as the waves crashed into the beach and a lone fisherman sat patiently in his boat. Crossing over to the other side, we were immediately struck by the colour of the water in the lagoon. Blues and turquoises like we had never seen before sparkled in the sunlight. The only disturbance to the perfectly flat water were three fishermen plying their trade with the hopes of a tasty dinner.

A single fisherman paddles into the lagoon

Suddenly, and without warning, a torrential rain shower materialized from the ominous clouds that had been following our road-trip all day. Luckily, the fisherman waved us over to the shelter of a convenience stand, boarded up for the winter. A few minutes later, the storm dissipated as quickly as it began and we moved on to explore more of the lagoon, bidding our new friends goodbye.

Endless stretches of beach and sparkling turquoise waters just minutes from Fethiye

Finally, just as the sun started sinking into the Sea, we made our way to the final stop of our tour, Butterfly Valley. A 1km deep gorge opening up into the sea, the valley is renowned for it’s still (fairly) untouched beach with only bungalows or tents for sleeping, and it gets its name from the butterflies that congregate near the waterfall that crashes down into the valley.

A sliver of Butterfly Valley can be seen from the road

We took 20 minutes to watch the sun begin to set and stared down over the cliff edge, making Dr. Can even more and more nervous every time we inched out farther to get a better view. Alas, it was time to make our way back and call it a day.

Although we initially wanted to spend our days in Fethiye laying around, trying to write, our daytrip turned out to be an absolute blast! We had to thank Dr. Can for his insistence on getting out and exploring – and we were grateful as we would not have made it to the majority of the places we visited using just public transport. After a sunny second day in the city, where we made a half-hearted effort to explore the old town and harbour by foot, our third and final day was a complete write off. As the rain came down in sheets outside, pooling up to two inches deep in the streets, we found ourselves trapped in the hotel for most of our last day. Alas we were forced to do nothing but sleep, blog, and watch television all completely guilt-free.

Have you ever needed a “vacation” from traveling? How did you go about it? Let us know in the comments section!

The post An Unexpected Tour of Fethiye – Complete with Amazing Beaches and Turquoise Water appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

We made it a point to check out a few of these neighbourhoods and we enjoyed each one of them immensely…here are our three favorites:

Beyoglu

The home of Taksim Square, Istiklal Street, the Galata Tower, and quite possibly your accommodations (that’s where we stayed!), Beyoglu is as close to the polar opposite of Sultanahmet as you can come in Istanbul. With a vibrant night-life – it’s not even busy until at least 9pm – and some of the best food on offer in the city, this is a part of the city you should visit at least once!

The view to Beyoglu from the water

Istiklal Street on a Friday night. I shudder to picture this same street in the summer months.

Our favorite things to do in Beyoglu include riding the Tunel (the second oldest subway in the world – and the best way to get up the hill), climbing to the top of Galata Tower for stunning views of the city, walking along the modern and trendy Istiklal street, eating at Durumzade (Anthony Bourdain wasn’t lying), and people watching in Taksim Square.

The view towards Sultanahmet from Galata Tower

Logistics: the easiest, cheapest, and probably most fun way to get to Beyoglu from Sultanahmet is to walk across the Galata Bridge and then take the Tunel up the hill. It drops you off at the bottom of Istiklal Street, and from there it is about a 20 minute walk (plus more for the crowds) to Taksim. The Galata tower (you can’t miss it – it’s huge!) is open everyday (10TL).

Ortakoy

Known best for it’s beautiful waterfront mosque, Ortakoy is a nice change from the mayhem of much of the rest of Istanbul. This neighbourhood, located right in front of the massive Bosphorous Bridge, has a distinct relaxed feel to it. Oh, and did we mention huge baked potatoes? These amazing creations, called Kumpir, are the specialty of the neighbourhood – in fact, there’s a whole street dedicated just to selling them. You can get them with almost limitless combinations of toppings (from potato salad to cut up hot dogs and everything in between).

The perfectly located Ortakoy Mosque with the Bosphorous Bridge in the distance

Ortakoy is a great place to wander around for a couple of hours, and if you get bored, you can always make the short walk to Dolmabache Palace for a lesson in opulence!

Kumpir sttuffed with couscous, cabbage, corn, olives, and even potato salad, they are traditionally topped with mayo and ketchup, although we prefer yogurt.

Logistics: Although it’s located on the water, Ortakoy does not seem to be serviced by any sort of frequent ferry travel. Instead, it is probably best to take the ferry to Uskudar and then take the ferry to Besiktas. From there it is about a 15 minute walk along the main road (past Dolmabache Palace and Galatasaray University) until you reach Ortakoy.

Kadikoy

If you fancy hitting up two continents in a day, there is no better place than Kadikoy to fulfill that dream. Plus it is an amazing part of town. Located on the Asian side of the city, Kadikoy is home to a fantastic bazaar and some of the best food in town. Also, if you are in town on a Tuesday or Saturday you can head over for the famous Tuesday Market – home to over 4000 stalls!

The view from the port at Kadikoy

Midye – fresh caught mussels for sale in the bazaar in Kadikoy

If you want some of the best food in the city, you could not have picked a better place. Fresh seafood, fruits, vegetables, and great little restaurants abound in the bazaar – and all at noticeably lower prices than on the European sides. We got a plate of Hamsi (Black Sea anchovies – which were amazing as we were there during their season), a couple fried mussel sandwiches (mussels are called ‘midye’ in Turkish) and a couple of beers for less than 20 TL – an absolute bargain!

Humans aren’t the only fishermen in Kadikoy

Freshly caught Hamsi (aka Black Sea Anchovies)

Logistics: Getting to Kadikoy is simple – you  can take a ferry from just about anywhere! Finding the bazaar and market can be a little harder. The bazaar is to the right of the main road (if your back is facing the water) about 4 minutes walk up. The market has moved to a new location – it is about 3km from the port. A taxi or bus 8A are your best bet – just ask a local if you get lost, everyone is friendly!

So there you have it, three MORE places to add to your already growing list of what to see and do in Istanbul!

Have you ever visited one of these neighbourhoods or one we didn’t mention? Let us know in the comments below!

*Note: We lied, you can’t actually get away from the carpet sellers…

The post Beyond Sultanahmet – Istanbul’s Unique Neighbourhoods appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

A common form of transport in the more rural parts of this region

As you would expect in a bustling city like Brasov, easy and frequent public transport abounds and makes getting to some of the surrounding gems very easy. We met up with our friends Talon and Tigger from 1dad1kid and, after they took time out to give us a great intro to the sights and tastes of the city, set off to see a couple of Romania’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Peles Castle

Castelul Peleș is one of the most visited sites in all of Romania, and one of the most beautiful castles in all of Europe. Built by King Carol I in the beautiful mountain town of Sinaia, the castle is set in an absolutely stunning location. Set in a small clearing in a forest, the castle feels like a true retreat from the hustle and bustle of nearby Brasov or Bucharest.

The castle (it’s really a palace – it’s just called a castle) is truly a work of art. Although we were unable to go inside as it is closed in November, we were absolutely stunned by the exterior of the building. Inaugurated in 1883 and built in a neo-rennaisance style, the exterior is a combination of ornate woodwork and beautifully sculpted stone. To top it all off, an exquisitely maintained garden complete with an an amazing number of statues greets visitors in front of the castle. If that’s not enough for you, right next door is Pelisor Castle (again, not really a castle, but more of a royal chateau), another gorgeous building complete with coloured tile roof.

We took the train from Brasov – probably the easiest option. Prices and times differ depending on the type of train (from 53 mins and 22 RON for an ICN train to 71 mins and 10 RON on a Regio train), and the ride is very scenic. There are a number of other interesting buildings and parks in Sinaia, more than enough to keep you busy for the day. For more info on the Peles Castle, you can check out their website.

 Prejmer Fortified Church

Fortified churches can be found throughout both Romania and the rest of Eastern Europe, but one of the best preserved examples can be found just 16 kilometers from Brasov in the small city of Prejmer. This particular fortified church, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was originally built by the Teutonic Knights in the early 13th  and is a true engineering marvel.

With walls reaching 40 feet in height and 10 feet in thickness, and enough food and accommodation to proved the villagers safe refuge for weeks, the site is truly amazing to experience. Attacked over 50 times and only overrun once, the fortified church provided safety for the villagers in a  very tumultuous period. At the center is the Early Gothic Church of the Holy Cross, built in the traditional shape of a cross. The church itself is very simple inside, but a stunning triptych behind the altar dating back to 1450 is still present.

It was an interesting experience to poke our heads in the different rooms built into the walls and imagine families huddled up inside while the church was under attack.

The Gothic Church within the fortified walls

The easiest option to get to Prejmer is via train. Both state-run and independent trains run to Prejmer and tickets cost about 7 RON. The ride takes approximately 20 minutes. From the station take a right and head down the main street – a 10 minute walk will take you to the church.

Rasnov Citadel

Perhaps the most well-known daytrip from Brasov is a trip to Rasnov Citadel. Located just 16km from Brasov, Rasnov is a rapidly growing small town with a number of sites. The most obvious and well-know of these is Rasnov Citadel. Perched high up on the mountaintop, the Citadel is an imposing site. Originally constructed in the early 13th century, the Citadel has provided sanctuary for many different generations of people from the vicinity and was conquered only once (ironically by the same person, Gabriel Bathory, that conquered Prejmer).

It is a long hike up to the actual Citadel itself, made a bit easier by a tractor-pulled train that takes you a bit of the way. The Citadel is actually in fairly good shape considering its age, and much reconstruction has taken place. Many buildings are intact and it’s great fun to walk (and climb) around the site. The views from the top are breathtaking, especially at sunset!

Again, we took the train to Rasnov. This is the easiest option as the bus doesn’t leave from Brasov’s main station. THe train is run by an independent train company and the schedule can be found here. Tickets cost 4 RON and the ride takes just over 20 minutes. The ticket counter immediately on your left as you enter the Brasov station is the one you want to go to!

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