Londonderry/Derry from the city’s ancient fortifications

A “modified” road sign

Brick row-houses line the streets

It may seem silly to us to fight about a name of a city, but in this case the name of the city represents far more to the people that call Londonderry/Derry home. During the Troubles the name was a shibboleth that acted to associate a speaker with the side of the religious/political divide they fell into.

During this period, the city was the location of some of the most violent clashes anywhere in the British Isles. Undoubtedly the most famous of these was “Bloody Sunday”. On January 20, 1972 in the Bogside neighbourhood of the city, 26 civil rights protesters and bystanders were shot by British Army soldiers – 13 of whom died immediately (one protester also died four months later). Derry was one of the hardest hit cities in terms of violence, and it is a testament to the character and effort of the people that it has recovered so dramatically.

Thankfully, since the end of The Troubles, Londonderry has transformed itself into a city known for its famous city walls, gorgeous riverside location, and colourful old town complete with hundreds of peace murals.

One of the many peace murals in Londonderry/Derry can be spotted on the building in the bottom left corner

A street in the city’s historic centre

The city’s new Peace Bridge

On our first day in the city, we decided to take the highly recommended walking tour of the city walls, and braved the rain to find the meeting point. Apparently we were the only ones stupid enough to take the tour in the absolute pouring rain, but we quickly realized we had made the right choice. Our guide, a native of Derry who had lived through The Troubles, regaled us with both hilarious and horrifying tales of what the city and her people went through for nearly 30 years.

We spent the majority of the tour circling the city on the top of the city’s 17th century walls – the only still intact example on the entire island. These city walls were never breached, and are easily the most prominent feature in the city. They also provide amazing views over the various neighbourhoods of London/derry, the countless murals commemorating the events of the Troubles, and the River Foyle.

A charming open market full of little shops selling handmade goods

Colourful shops and pubs line the street

A shopper braves the rain to pick up some groceries

Although our time in Londonderry/Derry was short, just one full day before moving on to Dublin, and the weather prevented us from spending more than a few hours exploring the city by foot, we really enjoyed what we were able to see and agree that Derry has enough to keep visitors busy for a couple days, more if you enjoy people watching with a hot cuppa and freshly prepared scone. The city also appears to have plenty of charming little shops that we would have loved to explore had our visit not fallen on a Sunday (poor planning on our part).

Hot tea and scones with jam and clotted cream

Logistics: The tour we went on was the Martin McCrossan City Tour. This is perhaps the best value tour we have ever been on, costing just 4 GBP per person – and includes a free tea or coffee at the end of the tour! Tours run 4 times a day every day of the week. Our guide was amazingly knowledgeable about the city, and you could see the pride he had in his city when the tears welled up in his eyes while speaking about how far the city had come. Definitely a must-do if you are there!

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The ferry between Malta and Gozo

Unfortunately the day we chose for our daytrip to Gozo was gloomy and cold, a striking contrast to the brilliant balmy temperatures of the three days previous. With the poor weather overhead and fatigue setting in we decided to try something new and jump aboard a hop-on, hop-off bus to tour the island – an abrupt departure from our usual travel style.

Xewkija Rotunda Church dominates the skyline of Gozo

Prior to Gozo, I didn’t really get bus tours – hop on/off tours in particular. It seems that every city we’ve visited, large or small, has been overtaken by the obnoxious red double-decker buses, filled with people awkwardly straining to snap photographs or looking completely bored. Worse still, these stupid buses always seem to find a way into my photographs, usually smack dab in front of the site or monument I’m trying to capture. With these thoughts in mind, I had my trepidations about hopping aboard something I had developed such a distaste for.

So why did we even entertain the idea?

As it turns out, we are always up for a new experience, and after looking up the Gozo bus schedule (it was a Sunday, which meant reduced winter frequencies) we decided the hop on/off bus would be a great way to save time, and would ultimately be an easier transportation system for our overworked brains to sort out. However what sealed the deal was the reduced off-season price we were offered which worked out to half of the regular rate. We knew we wouldn’t find a better chance to try the hop on/off system.

The National Shrine of the Blessed Virgin of Ta’Pinu – a Maltese pilgrimage site

For such a small island, only 67 square kilometers, Gozo still has a long list of sites to take in, including one of the oldest temples in the entire world – even older than the Pyramids or Stonehenge. In the summertime, Gozo is a popular daytrip destination for people visiting or living in Malta, in the off-season it’s much quieter, and on a Sunday in January it’s basically a ghost-town. This suited us just fine!

Our first stop of the day was the capital city of Victoria – also called Rabat – which can be somewhat confusing as Rabat is also the name of the former capital city of mainland Malta. For a capital, the city is quite small with little to see aside from the enormous Citadella and Cathedral of Assumption. The Citadella is more like a fortified town, and offers amazing views over the city and much of the island. After exploring the walls and alleyways of the Citadella (mass was currently underway inside) it was time to hop back aboard the bus – and just in time too as the rain picked up.

The view over Rabat (Victoria) from the Citadella

After Victoria, we made our way to the Azure Window, a spectacular naturally occurring rock formation that has been used in filming the HBO series Game of Thrones. This amazing natural arch set in Dwerja Bay measures nearly 75 feet tall and is absolutely breathtaking. However, each year it disintegrates more and more, and it will one day collapse – so get there to see it soon! Despite its popularity, the “window” is not the only attraction in the area – the nearby inland sea and blue hole are popular diving sites – it is pretty impressive and would likely only be more so on a sunny day. Travis also had fun examining and taking photos of a rare medicinal plant that only grows on the nearby “fungus rock”. It was said that the Knights Hospitaller guarded this plant so fiercely that anyone caught stealing it was subject to execution!

The world famous Azure Window

Dwerja Bay and the Fungus Rock

Before wrapping up our tour of Gozo we made one final stop and stepped back in time at the UNESCO Heritage site of Ggantija. Officially referred to as a Neolithic Megalithic temple complex, Ggantija’s temples date back to 3600-2500BC and are the earliest of a series of megalithic temples in Malta; At more than 5,500 years old, they are not only older than the pyramids of Egypt but also currently the world’s second oldest man-made religious structures (after  Gobekli Tepe in Turkey).

Ggantija’s 20 foot high outer walls – built more than 5500 years ago!

Although some of the temple complex has collapsed, a large part of it still remains intact, and it is mind boggling to think of these huge stones being pushed, pulled, and forced into place. The side-by-side temples forma clover shape, and at their highest the temples measure in at nearly 20 feet. Even more impressive might be the large perfectly circular holes that were cut through four of the large stone slabs to hold wooden beams. By hand. Over 5,000 years ago.

The structure is strengthened by scaffolding as they determine the best way to stabilize the temples

My personal favorite part of exploring Ggantija was trying to make out the graffiti names and initials carved into the stones. Apparently, during the 1800’s it was “hip” and “cool” for tourists (yes, there were tourists here in the 1800s) to leave their mark at the sites they visited, in this case by carving into the ancient stones. Although no one would ever consider doing something so damaging today, it’s actually pretty interesting today to be able to see this historical record of early visitors to the site.

“Graffiti” from the first tourists

After packing a lot of sightseeing into one day, we were ready to board the ferry back to Malta. Tired and worn out, we were also really impressed with the quality of attractions on offer in Gozo. For my money, a trip to Malta isn’t complete without a visit to Gozo. At the very least it will offer a change of pace from the big island.

The Gozitan countryside is stunning

Churches, shrines, and religious statues dominate every corner of the island

Logistics:  You can reach the Malta ferry terminal (Cirkewwa) via bus 41/42 from Valletta or bus 222 from Sliema. The ferry costs 4.65 Euro return (which you pay before getting on your return trip in Gozo). A day pass on the public bus in Gozo costs 2.60 Euro. The sightseeing bus we took cost us 15 Euro total (this is half the price that it normally goes for – due in part to our humming and hawing and in part to it being a gloomy day with about 15 independent tourists on our entire ferry!).

One of the best features of the hop on/off buses is their open-air, double-decker design which allows visitors a unique perspective of the surrounding city. Ironically, due to the poor weather during our visit to Gozo, this was one feature we weren’t able to take full advantage of. However, being stubborn to the core, we braved the elements atop the bus whenever possible and faked enjoyment while raindrops pelted our faces. While I’m still not completely sold on hop on/off tours, for difficult to navigate cities or those with poor public transit it may serve a purpose. However there are definitely better, more in-depth, and cheaper ways to explore a destination. 

Have you ever gone on one of these tours? Did you like it? Hate it? Let us know about times you did something out of character on your travels in the comments!

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A common form of transport in the more rural parts of this region

As you would expect in a bustling city like Brasov, easy and frequent public transport abounds and makes getting to some of the surrounding gems very easy. We met up with our friends Talon and Tigger from 1dad1kid and, after they took time out to give us a great intro to the sights and tastes of the city, set off to see a couple of Romania’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Peles Castle

Castelul Peleș is one of the most visited sites in all of Romania, and one of the most beautiful castles in all of Europe. Built by King Carol I in the beautiful mountain town of Sinaia, the castle is set in an absolutely stunning location. Set in a small clearing in a forest, the castle feels like a true retreat from the hustle and bustle of nearby Brasov or Bucharest.

The castle (it’s really a palace – it’s just called a castle) is truly a work of art. Although we were unable to go inside as it is closed in November, we were absolutely stunned by the exterior of the building. Inaugurated in 1883 and built in a neo-rennaisance style, the exterior is a combination of ornate woodwork and beautifully sculpted stone. To top it all off, an exquisitely maintained garden complete with an an amazing number of statues greets visitors in front of the castle. If that’s not enough for you, right next door is Pelisor Castle (again, not really a castle, but more of a royal chateau), another gorgeous building complete with coloured tile roof.

We took the train from Brasov – probably the easiest option. Prices and times differ depending on the type of train (from 53 mins and 22 RON for an ICN train to 71 mins and 10 RON on a Regio train), and the ride is very scenic. There are a number of other interesting buildings and parks in Sinaia, more than enough to keep you busy for the day. For more info on the Peles Castle, you can check out their website.

 Prejmer Fortified Church

Fortified churches can be found throughout both Romania and the rest of Eastern Europe, but one of the best preserved examples can be found just 16 kilometers from Brasov in the small city of Prejmer. This particular fortified church, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was originally built by the Teutonic Knights in the early 13th  and is a true engineering marvel.

With walls reaching 40 feet in height and 10 feet in thickness, and enough food and accommodation to proved the villagers safe refuge for weeks, the site is truly amazing to experience. Attacked over 50 times and only overrun once, the fortified church provided safety for the villagers in a  very tumultuous period. At the center is the Early Gothic Church of the Holy Cross, built in the traditional shape of a cross. The church itself is very simple inside, but a stunning triptych behind the altar dating back to 1450 is still present.

It was an interesting experience to poke our heads in the different rooms built into the walls and imagine families huddled up inside while the church was under attack.

The Gothic Church within the fortified walls

The easiest option to get to Prejmer is via train. Both state-run and independent trains run to Prejmer and tickets cost about 7 RON. The ride takes approximately 20 minutes. From the station take a right and head down the main street – a 10 minute walk will take you to the church.

Rasnov Citadel

Perhaps the most well-known daytrip from Brasov is a trip to Rasnov Citadel. Located just 16km from Brasov, Rasnov is a rapidly growing small town with a number of sites. The most obvious and well-know of these is Rasnov Citadel. Perched high up on the mountaintop, the Citadel is an imposing site. Originally constructed in the early 13th century, the Citadel has provided sanctuary for many different generations of people from the vicinity and was conquered only once (ironically by the same person, Gabriel Bathory, that conquered Prejmer).

It is a long hike up to the actual Citadel itself, made a bit easier by a tractor-pulled train that takes you a bit of the way. The Citadel is actually in fairly good shape considering its age, and much reconstruction has taken place. Many buildings are intact and it’s great fun to walk (and climb) around the site. The views from the top are breathtaking, especially at sunset!

Again, we took the train to Rasnov. This is the easiest option as the bus doesn’t leave from Brasov’s main station. THe train is run by an independent train company and the schedule can be found here. Tickets cost 4 RON and the ride takes just over 20 minutes. The ticket counter immediately on your left as you enter the Brasov station is the one you want to go to!

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After a one and a half hour bus ride through the Pannonian Plain, a region of farmland reminiscent of the Canadian Prairies, we arrived in Novi Sad. A quick walk down the main street took us to the large old town full of wonderfully colourful buildings and large churches. While Belgrade is a very appealing city in its own right, Novi Sad has a completely different feel. Wide tree-lined streets and low, colourful buildings dominate the old town, and make Novi Sad feel much smaller than it is.

Across the Danube from the old town is Petrovaradin Fortress and the lower town it once protected. Set up on a hill on the bank of the Danube (very reminiscent of Belgrade fortress), Petrovaradin dominates the Novi Sad cityscape and is a great place to spend an afternoon. As one of the largest fortresses in all of Europe, Petrovaradin takes a good hour or two to explore. Many of the buildings remain intact and the views are absolutely spectacular.

A wander through the crumbling lower town below the fortress is like a window to the past. The buildings, while not as well-preserved as the old town (actually, some are pretty much falling apart), the buildings are still stunningly beautiful under the peeling paint and crumbling tiles.

Far from the hustle and bustle pace of Belgrade, Novi sad is a more than worthy daytrip and provides a great way to get a different view of Serbian culture and history

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Looking over the Danube and Great War Island

Unlike many of the other cities we’ve visited, we didn’t have overly high expectations for Belgrade – there wasn’t anything in particular we wanted to see or do, with the exception of catching a soccer match and visiting the Tesla Museum, and our overall goal was simply to wander around. However much like Warsaw, Belgrade surprised us with its storied history, surprisingly varied architecture, and an unexpected amount of green space.

The House of the National Assembly

Belgrade is full of architectural gems

With the added bonus of some warm sunny weather (in early November no less!) we joined a free walking tour to orient ourselves to the city, and Kalmegdan Park quickly became one of our favorite places in town. Located on a cliff 125 meters above the junction of the Sava and the Danube, this park is a wonderful place to relax, and the home of the remains of the Belgrade Fortress – a definite must see for anyone visiting the city.

The remains of the Belgrade Fortress

Beautiful Kalmegdan and the remains of the Belgrade Fortress

We also enjoyed taking in Belgrade’s varied mix of architectural styles during our strolls through the city. Although we can’t call it all beautiful, amongst the boxy socialist-style buildings, bland apartment blocks, and crumbling remains of structures bombed by NATO forces during the Kosovo War, it’s still easy to find some truly stunning examples of Art Nouveau, and Neo-Byzantine architecture.

One of the more interesting buildings we saw in Belgrade

The destroyed Ministry of Defence building

One such example of a stunning building is a villa built in 1929 that is now the home of the Nikola Tesla Museum. Of course Travis was excited to visit the museum so we stopped in on Sunday morning. The museum is quite small, however it houses some of Tesla’s personal belongings and reconstructed scale models of many of his most famous inventions, which visitors can see in regular live demonstrations. The museum also displayed Tesla’s cremated remains during our visit and some very interesting documentation of telegrams and flower arrangements sent in response to his passing. The Nikola Tesla Museum came highly recommended by our walking tour guide and we can see why it is one of Belgrade’s most popular museums.

The former villa that now houses the Nikola Tesla Museum

One of Tesla’s remote-controlled boats

Although we left Belgrade with feelings, it was for different reasons than we might have anticipated. Instead of being disappointed with the city, we were instead disappointed that we didn’t get to see as much of it as we would have liked. Despite this, we still felt that our time in Serbia was well spent, and we feel we are able to leave with a better understanding of the country and its people.

The view of the Sava and the Statue of the Victor (aka the naked man)

As we wrap up our time in the Balkans, we will be sure to summarize our favorite sights, places, and attractions from these past four weeks in a few posts to come.

The post Three Days in Belgrade – What We Saw and Did appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

The view down over the old town of Pocitelj from the tower.

After a brisk thirty minute bus ride, the town came into view and our eyes were immediately drawn up – the impressive fortifications and citadel stood ominously over the city. Although laying partially in ruins these days, we got the feeling that the citadel and walls once stood watch over an important and thriving town. While the origins of the town remain mysterious, it has been surmised that the town was established some time around the late 14th century.

Over the last 7 centuries, the town has served as a strategically important fortified town and an important administrative and trading outpost for the Bosnian, Ottoman, Hungarian, and Venetian Empires. Today it is recognized as a centre of both great cultural importance and great concern as many of its buildings are starting to crumble as people move into the “new town” just down the road. This has resulted in the town being named on UNESCO’s 100 Most Endangered Sites. It’s bid for World Heritage Status is viewed as a possible saving grace for the city and will hopefully stave off any more destruction to the city’s historical features.

The view up to the keep and the town’s fortifications

Much of the wall remains intact to this day

Walking around the city feels like taking a step back in time, immediately Perast, Montenegro came to mind as we climbed upwards into the town and it’s numerous rock walls. Vendors selling freshly opened pomegranates and figs, and artisans hawking handmade crafts lined the main street, a small cobblestone pathway  about a hundred meters long, and many locals could be seen hanging laundry or making their way down to the mosque.

A pomegranate hangs in front of the 16th century Mosque

A basketball court sits just above the city walls

Hiking around the city is an extremely enjoyable way to spend a lazy afternoon. The winding stone streets are enchanting, and we were immediately taken with this tiny town. Locals waved from the yards or balconies and pointed us down the best paths as we wandered by. We felt very welcome – a feeling that was becoming familiar in Bosnia. A short climb took us up to the donjon tower (aka the keep), one of a few scattered pieces of the town’s fortifications still almost wholly intact. From here it’s possible to see both the new town, located on a flat region near the riverbank, as well as the entire old town with it’s graying tiled roofs and flashes of bright red pomegranates sparkling in the sun.

The stone walkways of the town

The view over the new town and the Neretva River

As far as daytrips from Mostar go, it is impossible to find a more quaint destination, and considering its proximity it would be a shame to pass on Pocitelj. If you’re planning a visit of your own, we’d recommend arriving mid-morning to avoid climbing in the heat. It’s also a good idea to bring water and a picnic lunch as there are only a handful of restaurants in town and many seemed to be closed during our visit in the shoulder season.

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As part palatial opulence, part crumbling fortress of a bygone era, and part spectacular water gardens, the Alhambra of Granada exemplifies the pinnacle of former Moorish power in modern day Andalucia, and is undoubtedly one of the most important architectural sites in the whole of Europe. Most certainly the main reason that millions of tourists flock to Granada every year (although it would be worth it by itself in our opinion), we knew that we just had to go there…and so we did. But there were a few bumps along the way…

Part of the fortifications of the Alhambra from the outside

The Alhambra

A bit tired, somewhat sluggish, and very cranky, we made our way to the Alhambra early in the afternoon for our 2pm entry time. Surprisingly, for a site so busy, we barely noticed the droves of tour buses parked outside the gates. Instead, we were immediately entranced by the sounds of the nightingales that call the park home and the smells of the seemingly endless roses, myrtles, and oranges.

The view from the Alhambra towards Sacromonte and the Albayzin

The Generalife are the former gardens that surround the fortress, palace, and other buildings. They Palace located in the gardens and the gardens themselves were a getaway place for the royalty, as well as a place for the public to grow fruits and vegetables. Elegant water features, perfectly manicured gardens, and fantastic views abound here.

A view of the Generalife and its beautiful manicured gardens

 

The Alcazaba is the former citadel and oldest part of the complex. While some of it has crumbled from earthquakes and neglect over the years, the outer walls, towers, and ramparts still stand and make it an imposing presence even to this day. The main tower offers fantastic panoramic views of the entire city and its surrounds.

One of the Towers of the Alcazaba, with Granada Cathedral in the distance

The remains of the interior of the Alcazaba

The Palace of Charles the V was a late addition to the site. Built by, you guessed it, Charles V, the Rennaisance architecture is a striking juxtaposition to the rest of the site, but it is definitely worth a visit. Apparently the round central patio acts has perfect sound amplification at its center.

The rectangular exterior of the Palace of Charles V

The round patio in the center of the Palace of Charles V

The Nasrid Palace is the crowning jewel of the Alhambra. Built for the last Emirs of Spain as the rest of al-andalus was being reconquered, it represents the greatest example of Mujedar architecture in Spain. Deceptively drab from the exterior, the interior is an architectural gem with scripture from the Koran adorning the walls, intricate tessellations (that inspired M.C. Escher), and ornate stalactite ceilings.

Patio de los Arrayanes (The Court of the Myrtles)

The detailed decorations are amazing

One of our favorites – the ceiling looked like the starry sky

Detailed wall carvings

Patio de los leones (Patio of the Lions)

The exteriors of the buildings were intentionally drab

We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the Alhambra, even while jockeying for position to take photos among the droves of other tourists. The site as a whole is very extensive, an incredible deal for the 13 Euro price tag, and reason enough to visit Granada.

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We failed to foresee any problems with catching a game on the night of our arrival in London – after a nine hour flight and significant time change. However Travis was able to fulfill a childhood dream, making it all worth while. And hey, the home team won!

 

Zagreb

Cordoba’s Mezquita

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Exterior with clock tower

Carved wood ticket counter and tile floors

Tiles walls, arched windows, and stained glass

Upon exiting the station we were met by the regular row of taxis and open-top tour buses offering transportation for 6-10 Euros. Although more affordable than most transportation offers we’ve encountered, being frugal and fit we chose to start walking and see where we ended up. The choice was a good one, as Toledo is only about 5 minutes be foot from the train station (albeit uphill), and the walk offers some great views of the city walls and the Tagus River.

City walls and Alcazar

Bridged entryway

The interior was impressive, an over-the-top gold alterpiece with multiple floor to ceiling organs as well as a second, ornately carved and painted Baroque alterpiece, all surrounded by richly decorated chapels. In addition to the stunning alters, the Cathedral features a small museum of original paintings, with multiple notable works by El Greco.

Gilded Cathedral Alter

Exterior steeple

Smaller gated entry

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The city of Trogir from the water – the bridge opens up to let boats pass

We decided that taking a boat to Trogir would provide a different view of the area, so we set off for the harbour and hopped on the small boat that ferries tourists and locals alike to and from Trogir. What we had forgotten, however, was that there had been a huge thunderstorm the previous night, in turn it had made the seas a bit rough. Well, more like very rough. Despite the waves, causing the boat to involuntarily replicate the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland, it proceeded to chug along and eventually we made it to Trogir.

During a moment of calmness we snapped this photo of the boat

As we left the boat and regained our land legs, the view towards the historic centre made it quickly apparent why Trogir was inducted as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. The city has been continuously lived in for over 2300 years, and its core is a blending of Greek, Venetian, and Roman influences. The historic city center is actually an island, separated from the island of Ciovo and the mainland by narrow bridged canals.

Palm trees line the city’s promenade

A Sailboat awaits it’s crew in the canal

Kamerlengo Fortress sits quietly beside the canal

The city is like a postcard. An expansive palm-lined promenade allows tourists and locals to enjoy a cappuccino while gazing enviously at the million dollar yachts tied up along the canal. 15th century walls surround much of the city with the magnificent 17th century city gate allowing the droves of visitors to enter after enjoying said cappuccinos. Churches and palaces ranging from the 13th to 15th centuries, many still with the original coat of arms of the families who once resided there, enchant the imagination with their stunning architectural features. An finally, the Cathedral of St. Lawrence caps it all off. The massive structure took hundreds of years to complete, a fact which is evident in the mixing of styles of the Romanesque-Gothic basilica. What really makes the area really special however, is the portal on the west entry, a masterpiece of art by famous Croatian sculptor Master Radovan.

The entire city could be explored in just a few hours, but spending some time getting lost and finding hidden treasures in the winding back streets makes it a more rewarding experience. We wandered around looking in shops, exploring the narrow streets, and snapping hundreds of pictures.

Hidden details can be found throughout the city

Beautiful details carved into the stone of a building

The Cathedral of St. Lawrence

On our way back to the dock to catch the boat home, we discovered that the waves and wind were preventing the company from running the ferry. We were informed that we should probably take the bus instead. We made the short walk over to the bus station and caught the city bus into town. It took about an hour and was a fairly comfortable ride, although less scenic that the boat.

We thoroughly enjoyed our trip to Trogir and would recommend it to anyone visiting Split, or Croatia for that matter. It was also a fabulous day for taking photos, more can be seen on our Flickr page (just click on the “photos” link on the top menu bar).

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