Although it is definitely the least-visited of the four Danube Bend towns, it seemed the most up our alley. From the limited amount of info we could find on the internet, we thought it sounded perfect for us – small, quiet, and charming, with not too many tourists.

A short (albeit delayed) train trip from Nyugati Station left us in the town of about 35,000 residents, and just a short walk away from the main square (Marcius 15 ter). Upon arriving at the colourful square, we were immediately drawn to the open-air market occurring just behind. We were getting pretty hungry at this point and the promise of stalls selling food was just what we needed. 10 minutes, a little bit of hand gesturing and pointing, and less than 4 dollars later we each had a fresh langos and a Pepsi in hand.

We people-watched for a while back at the main square while eating the delicious garlicy treats and couldn’t have been happier. Even the ominously grey skies had opened up for a bit and we were getting some very welcome sunshine.

Vác is the kind of city that has little specific to see or do – and that is also what makes it a perfect day trip. We didn’t have to navigate or look at maps to make sure we were going the right direction or wouldn’t miss a specific building or museum- instead we just follow out gut and let our feet take us where they may.

We wound our way through the narrow streets of the city, nearly all of which are lined with very colourful houses (a LOT of Yellow for some reason), and we eventually found our way to the water (again, Calli’s sixth sense). We sat and admired the Danube for a bit, enjoying the sunshine, before reluctantly moving on and finding our way to the city’s cathedral, which is beautifully refurbished. Finally, our feet growing sore, we made our way back to the train station and hopped on the train back to Budapest with another great adventure under our belts.

The Logistics: Vac is easy to get to on a direct train from Budapest’s Keleti or Nyugati train stations (one way ticket 650 HUF per person). Upon arrival, simply walk straight after departing the station for about 500m and you’ll end up in the main square. From here, simply wander.

The post Vác – A Day on the Danube Bend appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

Moving down the promenade we managed to find another, perhaps better, vantage point to set up our little tripod, and we proceeded to try and remember everything we’d read about night photography online just hours earlier. Budapest by dark is very romantic, and had Travis and I not been squatting on the ground engrossed in the task at hand, we may have even stolen a kiss or two.

The Chain Bridge and Palace

Details of the Chain Bridge

After playing around with the camera for a bit, we were pretty pleased with ourselves as it looked like we may have somehow snagged some great photos.  Engulfed with a strong sense of euphoria, and feeling a bit cocky, we stopped on a meridian at the foot of the chain bridge to try our luck shooting the light trails left by passing cars.

Light trails left by cars from the underpass

A blur of red and blue from a passing police motorcade

Having now played around with low light photography a bit this trip, as well as a little on our last trip in Kotor, Montenegro and Riomaggiore, Italy, we now have a better understanding of how to use the camera, and we have been forced to move out of auto and into manual mode where there are a lot more variables to control. At times, this is very frustrating, and I want to pack up and go home; however, it is also very exciting when the hard work and effort pays off and you get to go home with a great photo.

The post Calli’s Photo Feature 14.10.2013 appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

See, I’m not lying (strudel and kreme cake from Ruszwum Bakery)

While preparing for our visit to Budapest, I discovered the delectable sounding Sweet Budapest Culinary & Cultural Waking Tour; a three hour walking tour designed to take participants deep into the world of delicious Hungarian confectioneries and provide details on Hungary’s baking tradition. As a lover of all things baked – the act of baking; cakes, cookies, pies, and pastries; Michael Phelps – I immediately wanted to join the tour while in Budapest. Unfortunately some things really are too good to be true, and with a price tag of 19,000 HUF (nearly $91 CAD) per person, participating while staying on budget wasn’t feasible.

Not one to be easily deterred, I decided that if I couldn’t join a guided tour I would create my own. Now, after stuffing our faces with delicious strudels and cakes, Travis and I have decided to share our “self guided tour” online for anyone else that finds themselves a little short of cash in the Hungarian capital.

First, A little bit of history…

Being interested in Hungary’s baking culture and history, I wanted to incorporate as much as I could into our tour.  In addition to inhaling sweet treats, it was a great way to convince Travis that my tour was going to be worthwhile.

Hungary has been conquered and controlled by it’s neighbours for hundreds of years, and these outsiders have all left their mark on the country’s culinary scene. In the 15th century, under the reign of King Matthias and his Italian wife Queen Beatrice, Hungary not only experienced a cultural high, but also the introduction of Italian food. Later, in the 16th century when the country was ruled by the Ottomans, filo pastry and coffee were introduced, as well as Turkish adaptations of cakes and desserts. Finally, as the Hapsburg monarchy took control in the 17th century, Hungary became famous for its cakes and pastries.

One such famous pastry, Kreme cake from Auguszt Cucraszda

The sweet treats to try…

Hungary’s bakeries are full of delectable looking cakes and pastries. Below are a few of the more traditional confections historically linked to the country.

Two generous slices of Flodni (left) and Dobos Cake (right) from Frohlich Cucraszda

Dobos Cake

A five layer sponge cake with chocolate butter cream and caramel glaze

Named after its inventor and well known confectioner Jozef C. Dobos, the cake was unveiled to the world at the National General Exhibition of Budapest in 1885. In attendance were Franz Joseph I and his wife Empress Elizabeth, making the royals among the first to taste the cake. In the years that followed, Dobos traveled Europe, introducing the cake to the masses, but kept the recipe a secret until his retirement in 1906.

Fun Fact: Dobos means drummer in Hungarian. As a long running joke, people say the cake’s name comes from the caramelized icing which is so hard it can be beaten like a drum.

Flodni

A layered semi-sweet cake that features walnut paste, apple slivers, and poppy seeds.

Popular on the Jewish holiday of Purim, Flodni is an emblematic Jewish-Hungarian cake. From my research it appears most Flodni are cooked up in the kitchens of Jewish grandmothers and it can be very difficult to find in bakeries and pastry shops outside of Budapest’s Jewish district.

The Famous Hungarian “Chimney Cake” from Molnar’s

Kurtoskalaces

A thin yeast pastry ribbon wound around a wooden cylinder, sprinkled with sugar that caramelizes while the pastry bakes

Originating from Transylvania, Kurtoskalaces, also known as Chimney Cake or Stove Cake, is famous as Hungary’s oldest pastry. It is sold in bakeries and by street vendors, as well as at carnivals and fairs. Once the pastry has cooked and while it is still warm, the caramelized sugar is topped with cinnamon, or sprinkled with crushed walnuts or almonds.

Delicious Sour Cherry Strudel from Szalai Cukraszda

Retes

Hungarian strudel made with filo pastry and stuffed with sweet fruit fillings such as sour cherry or apple, or savory soft cheeses, spinach, or cabbage.

Although commonly associated with Austria, the strudel we know and love today actually originated in Hungary and became popular in the 18th century under the Habsburg Empire. The oldest strudel recipe, dating to 1696, was handwritten and is currently held at the Viennese City Library.

Fun Fact: Legend has it that the Austrian Emperor’s perfectionist cook decreed that it should be possible to read a love letter through the strudel’s thinly rolled dough. (Although if it’s my heart you’re after, skip the love letter and just bring the strudel!)

Rigo Jancsi Cake

A traditional Hungarian and Viennese cake made with chocolate sponge cake and pastry cream

This cake’s history is as intriguing as that of the entire country of Hungary. It is named after a Hungarian gypsy who became famous for seducing Clara Ward, wife of Belgian Prince de Chimay and only daughter of American millionaire E.B. Ward. Creating quite the scandal in the late 1800s, Rigo and Clara fell in love and married. Sources are unsure if Rigo Jancsi created the cake for his beloved Clara with an unknown confectioner, or he simply bought the pastry as a gift for her and the confectioner named it after him.

About a bakery, or five…

Budapest is home to plenty of bakeries, called Cukraszdas,  however to ensure you’re sampling the best baking Budapest has to offer, you should probably hit up it’s best bakeries. Based on my extensive research, both online and via my taste buds, here are a few Cukraszdas worth checking out.

Ruszwurm

Part of the Hungarian confectionery scene for more than 150 years, it was established in 1827 in the Castle Hill district and is still in operation today. Full of history, the bakery’s cherry wood counter is original and was hand crafted before the First World War. Although likely to be crowded and full of hungry tourists, the delicious pastries are worth the wait. Try a Ruszwurm Kreme, the bakery is famous for them!

Located at Szentharomsag Utca 7 near the Fisherman’s Bastion. We sampled one kreme and one strudel for a total of 1000 HUF.

Molnar’s Kurtoskalacs Bakery

According to locals this is the best place to pick up an authentic and delicious Chimney Cake. Easily one of our favorite treats during our tour through Budapest’s bakeries, the Chimney Cake is a must try – and one is easily big enough (and sweet enough) to share! Luckily, Molnar’s is conveniently located on Vaci Utca, one of the most tourist trodden streets in the city.

Located at Vaci Utca 31. Open from 9am-10pm daily. Cost: 900 HUF for one cake

A glimpse of the bakery from the street

Auguszt Cucraszda

Originally established in 1870, the shop was destroyed by a bomb during the Second World War, after which the state assumed ownership during Hungary’s communist era. Fortunately this story has a happy ending, as the Auguszt family reopened their own shop on Feny Utca in 1957 and have been baking up delicious treats using their original recipes ever since. With three locations in Budapest, check out the most well-known, and insanely beautiful store on Kossuth Lajos Utca, complete with chandelier and wall murals.

Located at Kossuth Lajos Utca 14-16. Known for their Kremes (490 HUF each), they also had Rigo Jancsi cake I believe, which was a bit hard to find.

Frohlich Cukraszka

Founded in 1953, Frohlich Cukraszka is presently the only kosher bakery in Budapest. It’s also where you can try the Jewish specialty of Flodni as well as any of the other beautiful desserts on display in their large glass cases. Located in the Jewish District, Frohlich is surrounded by Budapest’s best restaurants and crazy/famous/popular ruin pubs.

Located at Dob Utca 22. A slice of Flodni and Dobos cake will set you back a mere 930 HUF.

Szalai Cukraszda

A small bakery tucked behind the Parliament Building, Szalai is family run with a legendary reputation. Although we had to battle the dusty construction site currently surrounding the Parliament Building to find this shop, it was well worth it as we were treated to the BEST strudel I have ever eaten. Ever. In my entire life. Period.

Located at Balassi Balint Utca 4. We couldn’t resist trying both sour cherry and apple strudel for a total of 760 HUF.

Some tips on putting everything together…

We managed to visit five of Budapest’s most famous and beloved bakeries during our time in the city, and as much as I would have loved to join a guided tour (where someone else could order in perfect Hungarian, as opposed to my butchered attempts) our self-guided version had some incredible perks. Namely, we were able to split up our visits between days. Not only did this allow us to maintain somewhat normal blood-sugar levels, but it also meant that we could pop into a bakery when we were in the neighbourhood – almost like a local. To make this work logistically, I mapped out each bakery’s location on our free walking tour map, and as we planned out our day, or stopped to check directions during the day, we could simply detour into one of the five bakeries listed above.

The other great thing about our self-guided tour is that it saved us an incredible amount of money. Considering the original guided tour costs 19,000 HUF per person, Travis and I managed to spend only 4,080 HUF, or roughly ten percent of the cost of the guided tour. As a result, we could enjoy our cake guilt free and still afford dinner afterwards.

Finally, before wrapping everything up and sending you on your own delicious route through Budapest, I should touch on our favorite treats from the tour. While we both agreed that the Chimney Cake and Strudels are delicious, Travis liked the Jewish Flodni much more than I did, likely because it isn’t very sweet. On the other hand, I devoured the Kremes without offering him much of a bite. I don’t think you can go wrong trying any of the desserts listed here, or something completely different that catches you eye from the display case. When it comes to trying new or unknown foods around the world Travis and I both prefer to jump in head first!

An unintended side effect of getting a slice of cake to go, excitedly opening the pretty paper like it’s Christmas morning

Good luck on your own tour and let us know how it turns out!

The post Finding Budapest’s Sweet Side – A Self Guided Tour appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

Before even arriving in Budapest, we knew that one of our days in the city was going to be reserved for a walk along the water (If you know Calli, you know she is magnetically pulled towards water, so it’s always easy to find). After looking at the forecast, we knew that our third day in the city was definitely the day to do this – 20 degrees and not a cloud to be seen!

We began our day by walking along the Pest promenade towards the biggest and most beautiful building in all of Hungary, the Parliament. Built between 1896 and 1904 in a Gothic Revival style, it is the most prominent feature in Budapest postcards and can be seen from almost any vantage point in the city. It was also near a bakery that Calli wanted to try, read into that what you want.

The Pest promenade from Buda

Before reaching the massive building, we made sure to stop at one of the most harrowing locations in the city, the Shoes on the Danube Promenade. The memorial is dedicated to the memory of the many Jews who were forced to take off their shoes on the banks of the river before being shot by Arrow Cross militiamen towards the end of WWII, their bodies swept away forever. Today, 60 pairs of Iron shoes sit along a short stretch of the Danube bank.

The Shoes on the Danube Promenade

From the Shoes on the Danube Promenade, it is just a short jaunt to the Parliament. That is, of course, unless there is massive construction and no detours – in this case it is a twenty minute backtrack and then twenty minute walk. But it is definitely worth it, especially when Calli finds one of her bakeries that she’s researched and fills your belly with delicious sour cherry strudels. In any case, the Parliament is a magnificent structure – and the third largest parliament building in the world (strange for such a small country).

Us in front of the Parliament – courtesy of a hilarious Italian couple

A quick stroll over the Árpád Bridge, which connects both sides of the city to Margaret Island (definitely a peaceful retreat from the city and a popular spot for jogging), landed us in Buda. In addition to being a convenient point to cross, we had ulterior motives for crossing at this time. It was nearing lunchtime and we were in search of possibly Budapest’s most unhealthy and delicious food, Langos!

The Feny Utca Market Hall

…and the delicious langos found there!

Through some extensive research (you know how much I care about food), I had surmised that the Feny Utca market was the best place for Langos in the city, and after luring Calli across the river in this particular spot, it was easy to convince her to take ten minutes to walk to the market. It was definitely worth it, and Calli will attest to that*!

With our legs feeling like lead and our arteries seemingly clogging on the spot, we decided that we needed some exercise as quickly as possible and set off down the Buda Promenade. This beautiful walking path takes you past Batthyány tér (one of the most beautiful squares in the city), the Chain Bridge, and Castle Hill, all while giving you fantastic unobstructed views across the river.

The Buda promenade from Pest

We spent the better part of the next two hours walking a bit, then stopping to sit on a bench. We also spent about twenty minutes trading photos with an Italian couple who had some amazing poses in front of the Parliament (including one where they straddled the wall facing each other, held hands, and then leaned back. I was trying to stifle my laughter as Calli took photo after photo).

After some time we made it to the Elisabeth Bridge and made our way back across to Pest in search of the Grand Market Hall. With hopes of fresh food and unique gifts like many markets we’ve been to throughout Europe, we entered the newly renovated structure. However, we were ultimately disappointed – standard tourist crap and unauthentic “authentic” food abounded inside the gorgeous building. If you want a t-shirt with “Budapest” on it or some mass-produced lace then this might be the place for you, if not then better to search at some of the weekly flea markets held around town.

The tiled roof and refurbished exterior of the Market Hall

…and the inside of the Market Hall

Hopefully you haven’t grown bored of my babbling and have enjoyed our enjoyment of this wonderful city. It has definitely taken a place high on our list of favorites, and maybe we’ve even taken a step towards convincing you to take a trip to Budapest.

Another example of the beautiful architecture that can be found in Budapest

Logistics: You can go on a tour of the Parliament Building, and information can be found here (it costs about 16.50 CAD for a non-EU resident). The Shoes on the Danube Promenade is just about in-front of the Parliament. Feny Utca market can be found just behind the Mammut Shoping Mall and is on the red metro line at the stop named Moszkva square. For the langos go to the top floor, and in one of the corners is a place with a sign that reads “Langos Bufe Sorozo”.

 * I will talk more about Langos in my food article, but it is basically deep-fried bread with “toppings” on it.

The post Budapest Part 3 appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

Our day started with a walk down Andrassy Avenue, Budapest’s version of the Champs Elysees, and one of its oldest shopping streets dating all the way back to 1872. Dotted with beautifully restored buildings, fancy shops, and countless trees, it is a perfect place for people watching. On this particular morning, we were treated to some kind of marathon or relay race – from young children to seniors, thousands of people were participating and even more were watching and cheering them on.

Participants celebrate their handoffs in the relay race

Andrassy Avenue from Heroes Square

Andrassy Avenue leads to some of Budapest’s most popular spots to hangout. Bordered by the Jewish District and its cool eateries and pubs, you can also find the best museum in the city (The House of Terror), the backpacker hub at the Oktogon, and some of the most exquisite old apartment buildings in the city at the Kodaly Circus.

Just one of the beautiful buildings found on the Kodaly Circus

Andrassy Avenue ends at one of the city’s most popular spots for a relaxing day, the city park. Built for the Millennial Celebration in 1896, the park is a wonderfully relaxing place to spend an afternoon walking down its many paths, admiring the spectacular Vajdanhuyad Castle and its strange blending of architectural styles, and maybe even taking a dip in the famous Szechenyi Baths. If you are too tired, you can even take the “Millennium Line”, Continental Europe’s first underground system, back to the city center.

Heroes Square at the entrance to the City Park – you can see some of the people still hanging around from the race.

Vajdahunyad Castle – built just over a hundred years ago in a variety of styles

We, however, were not tired – in fact, we were just getting started. After stopping for some traditional Hungarian fare of Gulyas and assorted deep-fried meats at a local canteen-style eatery, we were rejuvenated and decided to spend the next few hours winding our way through the Jewish District of Budapest.

Some nice warm Gulyas and assorted fried goods to refuel us

Recommended by our tour guide as one of Budapest’s most interesting neighborhoods, it is definitely the best place to go for a party. And it is the place where you can find Budapest’s coolest trend – ruin pubs. Set up in derelict buildings throughout the Jewish District, these hipster havens are the epitome of cool. To find out what all the hype was about, we decided to venture into Szimpla, arguably the most famous ruin pub in the city.

The farmer’s market at Szimpla

It was definitely different than any pub we have ever been to in Canada – it looked like someone had put a yard sale and a collection of paint cans in an atomic bomb and then set it off. Furniture on the roof, a car in the middle of the floor, graffiti everywhere – it seemed to be designed with such abandon that everything looked like it was arranged perfectly.

Probably the coolest thing about our visit to Szimpla was that it was Sunday, which means that for a while it was not solely a bar, but rather a trendy farmer’s and food market, complete with people playing guitars and giving out samples of wild meats and curious cheeses.

Some of the “creative” decorations in Szimpla

After getting our fill at the farmer’s market, we set off for our last stop of the day, the Great Synagogue. As Europe’s largest synagogue, it is fitting that it is so beautiful. Built in a Moorish Revival style, it reminded us of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain – a curious choice for a Jewish building. The building also has great historical importance, as it marked the border of the Jewish Ghetto during WW2 and today contains many of the torah scrolls from synagogues throughout Europe that were destroyed during the war.

The iconic minarets of the Grand Synagogue, built in Moorish Revival Style

Unfortunately, by this point in the day our feet were aching and we were in no mood to stand in the 100-person strong line outside the doors of the Synagogue. So we just admired it from the outside while standing in the beautiful sunny weather we were being treated to.

Hopefully you are still not sick of reading about this amazing city, as we have more on the way…stay tuned!

Logistics: Andrassy Avenue is that huge street running through the middle of the city…don’t worry it’s impossible to miss. The Terror House is open every day except Monday from 10am-6pm and costs 2000 HUF (less than $10). The Szechenyi Baths are located just past Heroes Square at the end of Andrassy Ave. They are open every day 6am-10pm, and prices vary depending on time, services, etc (bring a bathing suit, flip-flops, and a towel!). The Szimpla Pub farmer’s market occurs on Sunday mornings and afternoons.

The post Budapest Part 2 appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

After a seven-and-a-half hour bus ride from Krakow (two hours of which were spent sitting in the gridlocked Krakow traffic) which passed through some of Slovakia’s beautiful mountains and countryside, we arrived late at night but brimming with anticipation. Our driver* assured us that five days would probably be enough to see the best parts of the city and was pretty confident we would love it. And we did.

A view out over Pest and the Danube, with the massive Parliament building along the water

As per usual, we decided that a great way to get oriented and see some of the main sights would be a free walking tour. Fortunately, Budapest has a fantastic free tour company (they offer THREE different tours..all free!), and our guide spent the next three hours regaling us with stories, teaching us some Hungarian phrases, and leading us to many of Budapest’s most spectacular sights, and the ones that contribute to attaining UNESCO World Heritage status.

The city is made up of two parts, the flat Pest and the hilly Buda, and is split by the mighty Danube. We began in Pest, learning about famous Hungarians and their many inventions – colour TV, the Model T, and holograms (just to mention a few). We saw St. Stephen’s Cathedral and learned about the best Hungarian foods to try, which definitely came in useful later.

The Chain Bridge with St. Stephen’s Cathedral in the distance

Our walk then took us across one of Budapest’s most recognizable landmarks, the Chain Bridge, and up into Buda, the hilly side of the city. We made the steep climb up Castle Hill and from there we were treated to a spectacular view over Pest. Although Castle Hill has never actually featured a castle, it is home to (arguably) the three of the most famous buildings in the city – Matthias Church, Fisherman’s Bastion and the Royal Palace which dates back to the 14th century.

Fisherman’s Bastion – we thought it looked like a sandcastle

…and again

The view from Castle Hill

The courtyard outside the Royal Palace

We spent a couple hours after the tour wandering around Castle Hill, admiring the magnificent views, and enjoying some delicious Hungarian pastries (more on that later!), but eventually it was time to head back.

As per usual, our walking trip had proved to be a huge success and we learned tons of valuable info (both on the buildings and history of Budapest, and on little things like “how to take the metro” or “what color lid indicates still (pink) and carbonated (blue and green) water”…you know, the important stuff!).

Fisherman’s Bastion and the Presidential palace with Gellert Hill in the background

If you enjoyed this post, then there’s good news – there are two more posts on the way about Budapest…plus a tasty post by Calli!

Logistics: The Budapest Free Walking Tour website can be found here. *We splurged and used a driver as we were arriving late from Krakow. We used Pulai Alajos (who was recommended on many sites) and the service was great. We don’t usually do things like this but it worked out great as it was late, raining, and the bus company dropped us off a block from the station.

The post Budapest Part 1 appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

The Parliament building in Budapest

For us, Budapest is a city of real intrigue. Passionately called the “Paris of the East”, it is a city that we hope and expect will live up to its reputation. A World Heritage Site in its own right, Budapest offers culture and adventure at a bargain-basement price, and we are definitely looking forward to making some great memories there.

What are we most excited about seeing and doing in Hungary?

Calli has done her research and is definitely excited about taking Travis on a “sweet” adventure through the city as well as a taking a cruise up the Danube. Travis is excited about seeing some of the small towns along the Danube bend and can’t wait to explore Fisherman’s Bastion.

Fisherman’s Bastion

Have you ever been to Budapest or anywhere else in Hungary? Leave us your tips and interesting places to see in the comments!

The post Destination Anticipation – Hungary appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.