As most of our travel occurs in the (far) off season, when locals in the countries we visit are leaving for warmer weather and customs agents greet us with confused looks as we try to enter their country, we have faced plenty of less-than-perfect days. Days with poor visibility, unbearable humidity, and torrential downpours are just part and parcel of making your way around the world. If we made it a habit to wait for perfect weather we’d still be sitting in Iceland waiting for a clear and rain-free day. None of the bad weather we’d encountered on our previous travels could have prepared us for what we experienced during our visit to the British Isles this February.

A few years ago, with the invention of Pinterest, and the resulting end of my social-life, I first stumbled onto a picture of the Giant’s Causeway. One of Northern Ireland’s most beloved treasures, the Causeway is a natural formation of hexagonal basalt columns that form what appears like stepping stones from the steep shoreline cliffs into the sea. While the formation of these unique rock columns is attributed to volcanic activity in the area 50 to 60 million years ago, at the time all I knew was that it looked beautiful and I needed to see it for myself.

After years of dreaming about visiting Ireland and the Giant’s Causeway, Travis and I found ourselves aboard a discounted flight to Belfast, and my dreams of visiting the causeway began to come together. Unfortunately, there was one aspect of our visit that we couldn’t account for – the weather.

Spoiler Alert! It rained during our visit – a lot

As we were visiting during winter it only makes sense that the weather at the causeway would be less than desirable; however as we set out from Belfast the sun was peaking out from behind a few scattered clouds and we crossed our fingers that the rain would hold. A couple hours later we found ourselves staggering across the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, a stones throw from the causeway, with only a few scattered clouds. We spent about 30 minutes hiking along the cliffs near the bridge and even had time to make the nerve-wracking 20 meter walk across the bridge itself. Set nearly 100 feet above the crashing waves below, salmon fisherman used the bridge, which only had one rope railing at the time, to transport their daily catches back to the mainland for over 350 years.

By the time we reached the Giant’s Causeway, just a brief 30 minutes after leaving Carrick-a-Rede, the wind had picked up and fat raindrops were beginning to fall. What happened next nearly blew us away – literally. Harsh winds made it increasingly difficult to stand atop the hexagonal rock columns of the causeway, enormous waves over ten feet high smashed against the shore, and heavy rainfall soaked the poor visitors fully exposed on the rocky shoreline – including us!

The rain was so severe that my camera struggled to focus at times, and after clearing the water from my lens I raised it up to only have more drops collect before I could even snap a shot. Needless to say we didn’t return home with many photos, and the ones we did manage to take are covered with blurred water marks.

Although our visit to the causeway was a bit disappointing, after waiting so long to visit it was saddening we couldn’t really explore the stones and venture out further towards the sea, in the end we were still able to see this beautiful site and fulfill another of our travel dreams.

Here’s a little snippet of our stormy day at the causeway.

Logistics: Reaching the causeway without a car is nearly impossible and as we didn’t want to drive on the left side of the road, we opted to join a bus tour with Paddywagon Tours. The tour includes a stop at Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge.

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A black cab sits in front of the famous Bittles Bar

There’s something to be said about walking – or in this case driving – in the steps of history. While exploring the glass-encased treasures of a museum can be both enjoyable and informative, there is something that resonates deep within you after actually being there. Whether walking through the “tunnel of hope” in Sarajevo, alongside graffiti covered portions of the crumbling Berlin Wall, or encircling the gigantic megaliths of Stonehenge, there is a special kind of magic that comes from witnessing a site face to face.

To really grasp Belfast’s turbulent history, there is no better way than to jump headfirst into the neighbourhoods and back alleys central to the conflict, while riding along comfortable in the backseat of a traditional Black Cab.

Our (White) Black Cab with some of the city’s many murals in the background

Playing a critical role in transporting civilians during The Troubles, the Black Cabs were the only way for people to navigate the barricades and road blocks that were commonplace throughout the city. If a road was blocked the cabs used side streets. They drove over the rubble results of riots, avoided army checkpoints, and along footpaths, in an effort to deliver people up and down the Falls Road, to Andersontown, and Whiterock. The cabs were frequently crammed with up to 8 people at a time, six in the back and two up front, strangers forced together by the common need to get around the city.

The cab drivers got people to work and allowed people to visit their families – they were an essential service in an unimaginable time. This importance, however, also led them to being one of the prime targets of gunmen and hitsquads. In all, 8 drivers lost their lives, while many more were injured, arrested, or harassed on an almost daily basis. Today, these same cabs transport people around some of the once dangerous regions of the city to see the murals and monuments that commemorate the Troubles.

Murals can be found all over the city

After climbing into our own personal Black Cab, our guide Tom introduced us to the Belfast of 30 years ago – a war zone of sectarian and political violence, frequent bombings, and innocent civilians caught in the crossfire – a far cry from today’s vibrant city. As we wove through small side streets lined with red brick row-houses, Tom regaled us with stories that both amazed and horrified us. Stories of being dragged out of his home as a teenager in the middle of the night to be questioned for days, stories of being searched 5, 6, 7 times a day, stories or carbombs and fistfights with army officers – it was hard to imagine any of this happening in the present day city we were witnessing.

The real stars of the show on a black cab tour, however, are the murals. Painted to commemorate events or persons involved in the history of the region, particularly during the Troubles, the murals also show the remaining divide between republican and loyalist groups in Northern Ireland. With many of the enormous murals honoring members of the hit-squads and commemorating the killing of innocent civilians, we struggled to understand how they can even be allowed to remain in a city trying desperately to recover from the horrific events of decades prior.

The man depicted in this mural was murdered during the conflict, his widow still lives in the house on the far left

A mural to Stevie “TopGun” McKeag – Commander for the Ulster Defense Association and responsible for at least 9 known murders of rival IRA members and innocent Catholic civilians

While the decision to keep or remove the murals is the centre of much bureaucratic debate, the paintings are an integral part of exploring Belfast’s history and help shed light on the deep riff that evolved between the people of Northern Ireland. Further evidence of the ground Northern Ireland still has to make up in becoming whole again are the 99 barriers known as “peace walls” that separate Protestant and Catholic neighbourhoods in the city. The walls (and gated roadways), which combine to cover 34 kilometers and reach 7.5 meters at their tallest points, will only come down when the communities they surround agree they should be removed, a consensus the people of Northern Ireland are not yet ready to reach in most cases.

A section of the graffiti covered “peace walls”

While Belfast is steeped in a rich and turbulent history, the city of today is vibrant, modern, and growing. The city is also a wonderful destination for travelers looking for something different in the British Isles, offering intrepid travelers the chance to see the city before it becomes the focus of every travel guide and must-see list.

We were able to sign the wall and opted to keep it simple with just our first names

Logistics: We used Paddy Campbell’s Belfast Famous Black Cab Tours for our excursion through Belfast and couldn’t have been happier. However for those who can’t prebook, tours can be arranged at the taxi stall across from the City Hall. Alternatively, if a ride in a traditional cab is all you’re looking for, Black Cabs can be hailed along the Falls Road, just tap the window when you want to get out and then pay the driver through the front side window.

The post If These Walls Could Talk – A Black Cab Tour in Belfast appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

Our trip to Belfast had been spur-of-the-moment. From Malta we had limited options as to where we could fly for a non-budget-busting price – the UK was pretty much our only choice. To be honest, we had not really planned on visiting Ireland or the UK on this trip, but when a 20 Euro flight to Belfast popped up we booked it immediately.

Belfast is not a city that regularly features on bucket lists – a phenomenon mainly due to lingering images from times past rather than current conditions. To most, the city’s name conjures up images of carbombs, shootings, and other fleeting images of overtly sectarian and political violence. Even a decade or two ago, these occurrences were commonplace, creating a literal warzone, and making Belfast a no-go for tourism.

Murals can be found all over the city commemorating The Troubles

Thankfully, this has all changed in recent years. Belfast is a now a thriving and bustling city committed to shattering these preconceived notions and embracing what makes the city unique – its history. From the Troubles to the Titanic, this is a city long plagued by tragedy. But it is this precise aspect that has laid the fabric for what the city is today, a city where you’re greeted with a smile and a joke every place you go.

Wonderful architecture, a vibrant city center, top-class shopping and dining experiences, and a revitalized waterfront are all contributing to make the city a rising star. As of now, Belfast still feels like a hidden gem and is nicely positioned off the well-worn tourist trail that cross-crosses much of Europe and the British Isles. But with rapid regeneration projects, easy access to the stunning North Atlantic Coast (including the world famous Giant’s Causeway), and easy access via budget airline carriers, Belfast likely won’t stay secret for long.

Graffiti down one of Belfast’s back streets

With a clear void of information regarding Belfast in the travel blogging community, we have decided to provide an outline on how best to spend your time in the city, what aspects we enjoyed, and some must see sites.

Black Cab Tour

For a memorable introduction the history of The Troubles of Belfast and Northern Ireland a Black Cab Tour is a must. Not only will the tour allow you to see parts of Belfast you’ll never find on your own, but each private tour is led by a guide who experienced The Troubles firsthand. Tours take place in real black cabs, a form of transportation which arose out of necessity during the periods of conflict and played an integral role in transporting residents during these turbulent years. We had an immensely rewarding experience on our tour – so much so that we are going to write about it separately.

Numerous Black Cab Tours are available in Belfast, and they all tend to cost around 30 pounds for up to five people. They last approximately 2 hours and each driver tailors their own route and stops – however they are always more than happy to alter the route if there is something specific you want to see.

Our (White) Black Cab

The City Centre

Belfast’s city centre is absolutely teeming with life – a far cry from times past. Beginning with  the spectacular City Hall, you can easily spend hours simply wandering the lively streets that radiate out from Donegall Square to the Cathedral Quarter or the River Lagan. Some fantastic examples of Edwardian and High Victorian Architecture can be found in this part of the city. For a city of it’s size, Belfast has some truly stunning buildings and the architecture here is extremely different from anywhere else in the region.

The stunning City Hall

If you’re in Belfast on a Friday, Saturday, or Sunday and looking for something different, you can head down to St. George’s Market. Built in the late 19th century, the market was recently voted the best in the UK and is one of the finest architectural jewels in the city.

Belfast City Hall is free to enter, and they even offer guided tours. This is also where you can find the main bus/train station, tourist office, shared taxi ranks, and many local buses.

The city has some lovely pedestrian streets

A black cab sits in front of the famous Bittles Bar

Victoria Square Shopping Centre

As you explore the main downtown arteries, keep an eye out for Victoria Square, a sparkling new shopping complex right in the heart of the city centre. While the shopping here appears to be quite good, the real reason for visiting this modern complex is the stunning views from the glass domed roof on top of the building. Closely resembling the glass dome at the Reichstag in Berlin, on a clear day it’s possible to see the Albert Memorial Clock, City Hall, the Courts of Justice, numerous church spires, and even across to the Titanic Quarter.

Victoria Square is open every day and has nearly every shop you can imagine. There are also tons of food options and a cinema. Access to the viewing dome is FREE, and there also appears to be an attendant that can help answer questions, point out specific landmarks, or snap a photo of you – they even offer guided tours! 

The view from the glass dome with the Albert Memorial Clock in the foreground

Cathedral Quarter

After you’ve got your fill of sight-seeing and shopping, the best place to get some good food and drink (or “good craic” as the locals would put it) is the Cathedral Quarter. The neighbourhood, which radiates out from St. Anne’s Cathedral, has been revitalized over recent years and now reigns as the cultural and gastronomical heart of the city. Almost all of the best pubs and restaurants in the city can be found here – many offering live music and good value meals.

Meals at a reasonably priced restaurant in Belfast will normally set you back a good 10-15 pounds or more at dinnertime. The secret to eating out in Belfast is to take advantage of the amazing lunch Specials that can be found in nearly every restaurant – many of which offer BYOB to keep costs down ever more. We usually ate at a restaurant for lunch and then had a takeaway (4-8 pounds) for dinner.

St. Anne’s Cathedral

Titanic Quarter

One of the most interesting ways to spend part of a day in Belfast is to explore the Titanic Quarter. “She was alright when she left here” reads the sign that greets you as you make your way into the very place where the RMS Titanic and her sister ships were built and launched. The River Lagan separates the rest of the city centre from this district, which was once occupied by the Harland and Wolff Shipyard. Nowadays, the Titanic Quarter is one of the biggest regions of redevelopment in all of Europe – the brand new Titanic Exhibit sparkles in the sunlight, the SS Nomadic and HMS Caroline sit in dry dock, the monstrous yellow gantry cranes Samson and Goliath tower above, and modern new condos and shops give the district a vibrant feel.

The sparkling new Titanic Belfast exhibit

Samson and Goliath tower above all else

The real star of the show in the Titanic Quarter is undoubtedly the brand new Titanic Belfast museum. This futuristic building, built to the same height as the Titanic and (supposedly) in the shape of an iceberg, houses exhibits chronicling the construction and fate of the most famous ship in the world. Even if you don’t want to pay the enter the exhibit (which is pretty pricey in our opinion at 14.75 pounds), you can still admire the building both inside and outside or take a peek at the gift shop.

The easiest way to get to the Titanic Quarter is over the pedestrian bridge that crosses the River Lagan. More info on Titanic Belfast and the other things to do in the area can be found on their website.

One of the many harbours along the River Lagan

The restored Titanic Drawing offices where the ships were designed

A City Break

For those with an extra day in Belfast, you will definitely want to take a daytrip to the Giant’s Causeway – Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site. Whether done by car or by tour, the drive along the North Atlantic Coast is one of the most breathtaking we’ve ever seen and is definitely a must see! We will be writing a post about our trip here so stay tuned.

A couple tour companies offer tours to the Giant’s Causeway (plus a number of other interesting stops along the way). They are priced around 20 pounds and take a full day. They include entry to the site at the Causeway and are pretty good value.

The “Big Fish” along the River Lagan

We thoroughly and unexpectedly enjoyed our time in Belfast. In many ways the city reminded us of our time in Sarajevo – another city ripped apart by politics and religion. In similar fashion, the incredibly resilient people that call this city home seem to be healing the wounds that were torn open so recently, and attempting to move forward. Currently 48 walls separating Protestant and Catholic communities still exist and many roads connecting these communities are still gated at night, but it felt to us like the “real walls” are starting to come down. Hopefully forever.

Logistics: The entire city centre can be explored very easily on foot. If it’s raining, you don’t feel like walking, or you are staying outside the centre, Belfast had a very efficient bus system (just tell the driver where you’re going and he’ll tell you how much the fare is). Alternatively, many shared taxis (black cabs) drive the main routes and will stop if you flag them down. Just knock on the glass when you need to get out and then pay (1.30 when we were there) through the passenger side window. This service helped people get around during the troubles (when buses were to dangerous to use) and continue to operate to this day – definitely a unique Belfast experience! If you need to store luggage, the Belfast Welcome Centre can do this for you for 4 pounds. It’s also a great place to get maps, info on tours, souvenirs, etc.

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