Slovenia – Have Blog Will Travel http://haveblogwilltravel.org Fri, 28 Nov 2014 03:27:24 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.5.3 Best of the Balkanshttp://haveblogwilltravel.org/best-balkans http://haveblogwilltravel.org/best-balkans#comments Sat, 09 Nov 2013 19:38:24 +0000 http://haveblogwilltravel.org/?p=2014 We considered titling this post “Best of the Countries of the Former Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia”, but it just didn’t flow off the tongue in quite the same way. Having now spent more than 6 weeks in all but two of the former countries that made up Yugoslavia (sorry …

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We considered titling this post “Best of the Countries of the Former Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia”, but it just didn’t flow off the tongue in quite the same way.

Having now spent more than 6 weeks in all but two of the former countries that made up Yugoslavia (sorry Macedonia and Kosovo!), we felt is was high time we articulated our favorite experiences from this often overlooked region of the world. While not as popular as Southeast Asia or Central America, the entire Balkan region provides diverse history and culture at a fraction of the cost of Western Europe (we averaged $94/day total for 2 people, and we didn’t scrimp on comfort or meals out).

So without further ado, here is our list of the most unforgettable experiences we had in the Balkan region (in no particular order):

Witnessing the spectacular views from Dubrovnik’s Old Town Walls

Hiking the Old Town Walls is perhaps the quintessential Dubrovnik experience. The same structures that once provided protection for the city now provide visitors with some of the most amazing views around. Get there early to avoid the crowds! dubrovnik-city-walls-best-of-balkan_mini

Surviving the Eternal Derby in Belgrade

Attending (and surviving) the Eternal Derby between Red Star and Partizan in Belgrade was probably one of the most thrilling things we’ve ever done while traveling. From the noise to the flares to the fires in the stands, this was not your mother’s North American sporting event. derby3_mini

Hearing the call to prayer for the first time in Sarajevo

Sarajevo (and most of Bosnia for that matter) is an exotic departure from the rest of Europe. Coming from British Columbia, where Muslims constitute less than 2% of the population, hearing the call to prayer from our open window in Sarajevo for the first time was  a surreal experience – and one we will not soon forget.sarajevo-night-from-window_mini

Hiking through Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice has it all, crystal clear turquoise lakes teeming with fish, countless waterfalls, beautiful wooden walkways and bridges, and hundreds of kilometers of hiking trails. It is truly one of the most beautiful national parks we’ve ever been to – and we live in British Columbia!plitvice-best-of-balkan_mini

Stuffing ourselves with fresh seafood on the Adriatic Coast

One of the best things about traveling through the Adriatic towns in Montenegro, Croatia, and Slovenia was the abundance and affordability of seafood. Fresh fish and squids are available nearly everywhere along the coast, and you can easily get more than you can eat for less than $10.seafood-dubrovnik-croatia

Getting lost in Sarajevo’s Baščaršija

Sarajevo’s old Ottoman market (or Baščaršija) is unlike any other market you are likely to see in Europe. Built in the 15th century, the marketplaces contains a maze of wooden shops selling everything from traditional Turkish coffee pots to tourist souvenirs. Be sure to fill your water up at the fountain in the courtyard of the 16th century Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque.bascarsija-sarajevo-bosnia

Exploring Lake Bled and the Vintgar Gorge

From the moment we put Slovenia into our plans we knew that Lake Bled was going to be a must-see place – and it didn’t disappoint. However, what we didn’t expect was to find one of the most beautiful little parks we’ve ever set foot in, the Vintgar Gorge.vintgar-gorge-slovenia-bled

Discovering Ancient Cities along the Bay of Kotor

The UNESCO-listed Natural and Culturo-Historical Region of Kotor is one of the most dramatic locations in all of the Balkans. A place with something for everyone, this region of Montenegro has everything from hiking and kayaking to walled cities and island churches. If that wasn’t enough, the bay is breathtakingly beautiful. perast-montenegro-balkans

Kayaking the crystal blue waters of the Adriatic

A spur of the moment email to a young tour company based out of Split, Croatia ended up providing us with one of the most fun adventures we had in the whole region. Spending a day  seeing the city from the sea is a completely different experience, and one we would wholeheartedly recommend.

kayaking-split-croatia

Learning about the history of Yugoslavia throughout the region

One of the things that we found most prevalent among the incredibly friendly people we met throughout the Balkans was their openness in talking about the wars and the breakup of Yugoslavia. From tour guides to our hosts to people we met in trains, everyone was willing to share their stories of the war times with us – and we were more than happy to listen and learn about such an important subject (and one we knew relatively little about before visiting!).Mostar-Bosnia-Balkans

So there you have it…our favorites from the Balkan region. Have you ever been to any of these countries? What did we miss?

 

Sharing this post over at Chasing the Donkey – check out all the submissions for some great travel inspiration!

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Calli’s Photo Feature 04.11.2013http://haveblogwilltravel.org/callis-photo-feature-04-11-2013 http://haveblogwilltravel.org/callis-photo-feature-04-11-2013#respond Mon, 04 Nov 2013 18:33:22 +0000 http://haveblogwilltravel.org/?p=1924 Things have been a bit slow around here photo wise – besides a bunch of generic shots reminiscent of postcards (sweeping landscapes or recognizable landmarks absent of all people). Not that these types of photos are bad, they are actually really useful for blogging. I’m not quite sure when I …

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Things have been a bit slow around here photo wise – besides a bunch of generic shots reminiscent of postcards (sweeping landscapes or recognizable landmarks absent of all people). Not that these types of photos are bad, they are actually really useful for blogging. I’m not quite sure when I stopped stepping outside my photography comfort zone or why but I promise to get my butt in gear for next week.

In the meantime, let’s go back to Ljubljana for this week’s photo feature. Perhaps I’m still slightly disappointed to have missed Halloween (for the second year in a row!) but I really love the ghost-like feeling of this shot. Somehow the couple in the foreground actually turned towards the camera when they saw it, making their blurred expressions feel even more spooky!

Ghosting-in-Ljubljana

For those that celebrated the most ghoulish day of the year, have an extra piece of candy for me please! I like Kit-Kats, Coffee Crisp, Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, Sweet Tarts, Nibs… actually anything will do.

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Lake Bled for the Budget Conscioushttp://haveblogwilltravel.org/lake-bled-budget-conscious http://haveblogwilltravel.org/lake-bled-budget-conscious#comments Mon, 28 Oct 2013 17:49:05 +0000 http://haveblogwilltravel.org/?p=1807 Stingy, thrifty, frugal, tight-fisted…whatever you call it, there will always be times in life, while traveling or not, where we either can’t or don’t want to part with our hard-earned cash. Luckily, we’ve found that there are plenty of simple sacrifices that can be made to save a dollar or …

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Stingy, thrifty, frugal, tight-fisted…whatever you call it, there will always be times in life, while traveling or not, where we either can’t or don’t want to part with our hard-earned cash. Luckily, we’ve found that there are plenty of simple sacrifices that can be made to save a dollar or two, with comfort, quality, and convenience likely being the most common (and most likely to leave you wishing you’d just shelled out the extra dough). Although not for everyone, a little sacrifice can go a long way when every penny counts. However when these options are severely limited, like when you decide to visit Europe’s eighth most expensive country, staying on budget becomes all the more difficult.

Being overly budget conscious, Travis and I almost choked when we saw the cost to visit some of Bled’s world class attractions. Not wanting to hand over an amount equal to our total daily budget for a few hours of enjoyment, we did the only thing we could – we found an alternative and made some sacrifices.

Bled castle perched high above the lake.

Bled castle perched high above the lake.

Bled: Getting There

There are plenty of tour agencies willing to take visitors on full-day guided tours of Lake Bled and the Bohinj Valley. While extremely convenient (they pick up and drop off at your hotel) and relaxing (simply sit back and allow the guide and driver to take you around) these tours are also the most expensive way to get to Lake Bled. We found prices ranging from 59-75 Euros per person for a full day on a group tour, or up to 350 Euros for a private tour (total for 1-2 people).

Seeking more freedom in our visit as Travis and I aren’t good at “following” for an extended period of time, we decided to use public transportation between Ljubljana and Bled. Although we had to sacrifice a bit of convenience, the bus schedule had us up bright and early and we had to walk to and from the main bus station (a thirty minute round trip), we spent a measly 6.30 Euro per person each way.

Sight Seeing for Cheap

As we weren’t part of an all-inclusive tour, where all entry fees are normally included in the price, Travis and I were able to be even more selective with how we spent both our time and money. When visiting Bled, there are many wonderful free activities (mainly walking related) that would keep any tourist busy for most of a day. After partially wandering around the lake (there is an easy to find paved path that circles the entire lake) and snapping way to many photos, we found a sunny bench and watched the swans gliding by, fisherman clearly ignoring the “no fishing” signs (and dressed in full camo), and rowers training on the lake – a delightful morning, for free.

The Church on the Island

Bled is also home to some incredibly expensive activities, the main one being a visit to the Church on the Island. While the traditional way to access the island is by Pletna boat at a cost of 12 Euros per person (the trip takes 90 minutes, including sixty minutes of rowing and thirty minutes to explore the island), visitors also have the option to rent rowboats by the hour for 10-15 Euros. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any rentals during our visit in the off-season. In addition to transportation to the island, the Church charges an entry fee of 3 Euro per person (I am not sure if this is strictly enforced or a recommended donation). After a quick discussion of our priorities and what we wanted from this visit (to simply take in the views and snap some photos), Travis and I decided that a visit to the Island was neither in our budget nor something we were really that interested in. However, for others not wanting to forgo this experience, renting a rowboat to see the island while choosing not to visit the church could be a budget friendly compromise. Or perhaps in the summer one can simply swim to the Island from the nearest beach?

The Church on the Island

The Church on the Island

Bled Castle

After fully exploring Lake Bled, we turned our attention to the surrounding hills. Wanting to see Bled Castle up close, if just for the views of the magnificent lake below, we climbed the hill by foot, where we only then realized that admission to the castle is 8 Euros per person. After a quick conversion (8 Euros = approx $11.50 CAD), and realizing all we wanted to see was the view, we agreed not to visit the interior of the Castle*. However, we were unwilling to give up on seeing said view, and after wandering around for a few moments we managed to find a path that led around the base of the castle and revealed some of the most spectacular scenery we’ve ever seen – for free! Had we not been able to find a good viewpoint would we have paid the entrance fee? Perhaps. However we DID find a viewpoint and we’ve got directions so everyone else can too!

*While some people may think this decision was too harsh, to put the entry fee into perspective, we averaged 18 Euros per day on food during our time in Slovenia.

Getting to Bled Castle

When it came time to hike up to Bled Castle, we made the mistake of looking at a map. Why is this a mistake you might ask? Unfortunately most maps only show the main road leading from the town to the castle, not the dozens of twisting, intersecting, walking paths that weave around the entire hillside.

In our opinion, the best way to walk to Bled Castle is to approach from the walking path along the water, directly below the castle. Here there are numerous dirt walking paths that disappear into the thick underbrush. Although all these walking paths seem to take off in different directions, we found that in the end they seemed to meet up at the bottom of a large set of stairs and switchbacks that cover the last few hundred feet to the castle. When in doubt, use common sense and keep making your way towards where the castle is perched on the hillside above. A hike up one of the walking paths will take about 30 minutes, or longer if you stop for photos more than we did (impossible!).

The stairway connecting the lake and castle

The View Without the Entrance Fee

After reaching the hilltop and gazing onto the Castle in awe, you may be inclined to walk through it’s large gates and up a very steep cobblestone entrance. Don’t do this, unless you want to pay to enter the castle. We did and immediately found ourselves wedged between two very large tour groups only to have to turn around and walk back down.

Bled-Logistics-1_mini

For a wonderful free view of Bled Lake and the Castle of the Island, make your way around the castle to the right, to the end of the parking lot. Here you will find an awkward looking cave to your left and to your right, a lovely little walking path. Follow this path as it leads you around the castle and after climbing up slightly you will be greeted with a stunning view. Now while I can’t say for sure that this view is better than that from the castle, I can say it is free and absolutely beautiful.

Bled-Logistics-3_mini

Bled-Logistics-2_mini

The view that awaits you!

**One note about this walking path, it doesn’t include hand railings and can be quite steep at the end. Therefore, likely not the best choice for small children or those with accessibility issues!

Vintar Gorge: Getting There

After exploring Bled fully, we decided to visit the neighbouring Vintar Gorge, a beautiful nature park with wooden walking paths and bridges, steep rock cliffs, and bright turquoise water. Although many people don’t make it to this beautiful park, we consider it a must see and the perfect side trip to a visit to Bled. Check out their website here.

The beautiful Vintgar Gorge

The beautiful Vintgar Gorge

Being only 5 km from Bled, one would think a visit to the Vintgar Gorge could be easily accomplished – if only that were true. The truth is that getting to Vintar Gorge IS incredibly easy, for those with a rental car, by taxi (approx 3.50 Euro per person), or as part of a guided tour (we saw some tours that included it and some that didn’t). Many people opt to simply walk the full distance, a trek that takes about forty minutes to an hour – a time that could definitely be sped up with a rental bike perhaps? If you are not up for walking, and you want to get there via public transportation you have to get a little creative. As our feet were already a bit tired we decided do just this and take the public bus as far as we could before walking the last little bit. It was a bit tricky to determine which bus we needed to catch (we eventually figured it out – Bled to Krnica); However, just to be sure, we showed the driver the stop we wanted written on a piece of paper (Spodnje Gorje) and he assured us that he would get us there. The bus fare was 1.30 Euro per person, one way.

Bled-Logistics-5_miniBled-Logistics-6_mini

Stepping off the bus, it felt as though we were in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, after making our way towards the houses, in the same direction we were traveling on the bus, we spotted a sign pointing the way to the Vintgar Gorge. After this initial sign, there were a few more, however for the most part you simply follow the road as it weaves through a residential neighbourhood, past a Mercator grocery store where you could stock up on picnic supplies if it’s open, and into more rural farm houses. Eventually you can spot the transparent looking river below. Finally, the road dips down towards the river and you walk alongside the riverbank until reaching a small cabin at the park entrance. The walk took us about 15 minutes and was relatively easy except for one section where it is a bit steep.

There is a small entrance fee to visit the Vintgar Gorge of 4 Euros/person.

A 4 Euro entrance fee is a bargain if you ask us

A 4 Euro entrance fee is a bargain if you ask us

After babbling on for so long, here is a little roundup of what we could have spent and what our actual costs were for the day.

Option 1: Full Guided Tour

Half Day Alpine Fairytale Tour: Includes roundtrip transportation to Bled Castle and option to either visit the Castle on the Island via pletna boat or continue on to the Vintgar Gorge. Cost: 39 Euros per person + entry fees (castle = 8; pletna = 10; Vintgar = 4). (Full day tour, with the addition of Lake Bohinj for 46 Euro per person + entry fees)

*We have not taken the Alpine Fairytale Tour (which has a 5/5 on TripAdvisor), we are only using it for comparison purposes.

Option 2: Public Transport with Attractions

Roundtrip bus fare from Ljubljana to Bled, Entrance to Bled Castle, plenta boat and entrance to the Castle on the Island, bus to and from Vintgar Gorge, entry to the Gorge. Cost: 42 Euros per person.

Option 3: Our Visit

Roundtrip bus fare from Ljubljana to Bled, free view from Bled Castle, bus to and from Vintgar Gorge, entry to the Gorge. Cost: 19 Euros per person ( a huge savings over the other two options!)

All this and wildlife too - just a short ride from Ljubljana

All this and wildlife too – just a short ride from Ljubljana

For most, a visit to Slovenia is a once in a lifetime opportunity, one that we would never want to spoil by suggesting you skip or miss out on an attraction. If you have your heart set on ringing the bell at the Church on the Island, or gliding across the blue waters of Lake Bled by boat, we are one hundred percent behind you. This post was simply meant to provide less expensive options to those that either don’t want to or can’t afford the many different entrance fees, as well as some logistical information about getting around in this area. While we don’t regret skipping the interior of the castle or boating out to the island, many others may not feel the same way. If you simply cannot afford to do everything in Bled, the best option may be to compromise, pay to visit one attraction and appreciate the others from afar, or take the cheaper public transport and save you money for entrance fees.

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Top 5 Sloveniahttp://haveblogwilltravel.org/top-5-slovenia http://haveblogwilltravel.org/top-5-slovenia#comments Sat, 26 Oct 2013 16:15:12 +0000 http://haveblogwilltravel.org/?p=1795 During our 2 weeks in Slovenia we managed to see as much of the country as possible, and we enjoyed every minute of it. Here are our top 5 “musts” when visiting Slovenia.   Gorging on a Squid Extravaganza in Piran Looking at Calli’s face as we were walking out …

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During our 2 weeks in Slovenia we managed to see as much of the country as possible, and we enjoyed every minute of it. Here are our top 5 “musts” when visiting Slovenia.

 

Gorging on a Squid Extravaganza in Piran

Looking at Calli’s face as we were walking out of Piran to the bus stop would have broken the hearts of even the surliest of men. She was sad – not only to be leaving this delightful coastal gem, but also to be leaving the fresh-caught squids that we indulged on for lunch and dinner every day.

A squid extravaganza!

Mmmm squids!

 

Going Deep Underground at the Skocjan Caves

Slovenia is known for its caves, and the Skocjan Caves are perhaps the best example of this. Formed by the Reka River as it carved through the coastal Karst region of the country, Skocjan is full of stunning stalactites and stalagmites – plus a bridge that will take your breath away!

The Cerkvenik Bridge

The Cerkvenik Bridge

 

Wandering aimlessly through Ljubljana

Whether you do this as part of a free walking tour, or just by yourself, you can’t help but admire the charming streets and squares of Slovenia’s prettiest city – Ljubljana. Don’t walk too much though, and make sure to set aside time to sit and people watch with a good coffee or a Human Fish Pale Ale (one of the best beers we’ve had in Europe!).

The main square and triple bridge at night

Ljubljana’s main square and the triple bridge at night

 

Hiking the Vintgar Gorge

Many a tourist makes it to Bled (see below), and for good reason. But only a disappointingly small number make it to one of Slovenia’s most amazing natural landscapes – the Vintgar Gorge. With sheer walls towering up over 300 feet in spots, you walk along 100 year old wooden walkways that cling to the rock faces until you reach the 43-foot Sum Falls at its end.

The breathtaking Vintgar Gorge!

The breathtaking Vintgar Gorge!

 

Strolling around Lake Bled

Probably the most famous Slovenian attraction, this postcard-perfect glacial lake makes the perfect (and most popular) daytrip from Ljubljana. A stroll around the lake is the perfect way to spend a morning or afternoon, and when coupled with a boat trip out to the Island Church or a hike up to Bled Castle it makes for a perfect day.

The iconic Island on Lake Bled

The iconic Lake Bled

 

Have you ever been to Slovenia? What did you like or dislike – let us know in the comments section!

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The Beauty of Slovenia – Bled and the Vintgar Gorgehttp://haveblogwilltravel.org/daytrip-bled-vintgar-gorge http://haveblogwilltravel.org/daytrip-bled-vintgar-gorge#comments Fri, 25 Oct 2013 19:08:04 +0000 http://haveblogwilltravel.org/?p=1774 Looking to check in on nature, and escape Ljubljana’s busy streets and cafes, we decided to make a day trip to Bled. Ranked alongside words like “moist” and “yolk” that should really be banished from the English language, Bled does little to depict the beauty and charm of this small …

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Looking to check in on nature, and escape Ljubljana’s busy streets and cafes, we decided to make a day trip to Bled. Ranked alongside words like “moist” and “yolk” that should really be banished from the English language, Bled does little to depict the beauty and charm of this small Slovenian town. Postcard perfect, many people may not immediately recognize Bled by name, however would likely perk up after being shown a photo of its famous lake.

The iconic Island on Lake Bled

The iconic Island on Lake Bled

Our feelings on the name aside, Travis and I boarded the bus with about 75% certainty of where to get off and sat back for the 75 minute ride through rural Slovenia. As the time came for us to depart, we hopped off, 88% sure that this was the right idea, and after looking dazed for a few minutes we spotted the water in the distance and began walking in that direction.

*Only later would we discover that, while our stop worked just fine, had we waited for the next stop we’d have been let out at the main station in the middle of town.

Boats waiting to take eager tourists out to Bled Island

Boats waiting to take eager tourists out to Bled Island

Swan

This swan couldn’t help but strike pose after pose for my camera

The lake is stunning – which is really all you need to know – and coming from Canada I consider this the highest complement I can give. Deep blue-green and fairly large, Lake Bled is surrounded by lush green hills, which were beginning to show their fall hues during our visit. However, what mother nature provided, man must have thought he could perfect, as Lake Bled is also famous for TWO historical buildings. Immediately we noticed the aptly named Church on the Island, a quaint church perched on a small island in the middle of the lake. In addition to being visually stunning, archaeologists have found many ruins on the site, with the oldest dating back to the 11th century BC.

...and this duck was even more pleased with himself than the swan!

…and this duck was even more pleased with himself than the swan!

After soaking in the beautiful views of the island and church, and snapping plenty of photos, we peeled our eyes away long enough to catch a glimpse of Bled’s second famous structure, Bled Castle (the names here are so creative!). Perched high atop a steep hill that seems to climb directly from the lake, Bled Castle was initially built in 1011, with an addition and further strengthening of its fortifications during the Middle Ages. Today it serves as an exhibit and site for cultural festivals.

Bled castle perched high above the lake.

Bled castle perched high above the lake.

With so many pretty vistas it was hard to know exactly where to start. After wandering around the lake for a bit, we made our way up the hillside to the castle for some spectacular views of the lake below. Upon reluctantly descending the hill, we continued around the lake for some more photos and a stroll through town. As it turns out the best thing about Bled is that it’s hard not to see everything the moment you reach the lake, and the only real thing to do there is walk and stare in awe.

Realizing that we’d covered everything we wanted to by 12:00, we decided to make a small detour to the Vintgar Gorge before heading home. Again, we weren’t completely certain how to get there, as our pre-trip research hadn’t been overly productive; however with the name of the nearest stop we could find written on a small piece of paper, a bus driver assured us with the nod of his head that he could get us to the general area.

Fifteen minutes later the signal came to depart and we found ourselves on the side of a dirt road surrounded by a few houses but most definitely no gorge. Knowing we needed to hike into the park area that surrounds this natural landmark, we set off in the most plausible direction. Fifteen minutes later, and much sweatier than is socially acceptable, we reached the park – delighted we hadn’t gotten lost – and although we were a bit tired and hungry from our long day of hiking, we were instantly transfixed by the water, so clear it looked like glass.

Approaching the Vintgar Gorge...just look at the water!

Approaching the Vintgar Gorge…just look at the water!

Much like Bled, the only real thing to do at the Vintar Gorge is to walk along a winding path comprised of some impressive bridges and suspended portions clinging to the cliff faces, and stare in awe at the impressive power of Mother Nature. The deep turquoise water is mind-bogglingly clear, making anything we have at home seem dingy in comparison, and was made all the more stunning by the vibrant hues of red, yellow, and orange in the trees around us. As the sunlight trickled through to the bottom of the deep rocky crevice, we tried our best to capture everything on camera.

The Radovna River surrounded by stunning fall colours

The Radovna River surrounded by stunning fall colours

Knowing if we didn’t turn back soon we’d miss our bus back to Bled (and end up waiting two hours for the next one) we finally turned around and made our way out of the gorge, back to the bus station in Bled, and onto a bus bound for Ljubljana where our beds awaited us.vintgar2 vintgar5 vintgar6 vintgar4

Logistics: Bled is a very touristy city during the peak summer months, and as such most of the information we found online pertains to expensive guided tours. Also, many of the attractions are quite pricey (ie. entering the castle etc…). Therefore, in our next post we’ll go over all the details about visiting Bled and the Vintar Gorge independently and provide some budget advice too!

Sunday Traveler Badge

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Basketball and Ultrashttp://haveblogwilltravel.org/basketball-ultras http://haveblogwilltravel.org/basketball-ultras#comments Thu, 24 Oct 2013 17:56:02 +0000 http://haveblogwilltravel.org/?p=1765 As we’ve mentioned an exhaustive number of times, we feel like sport is one of the most underrated and underused methods of immersing yourself in the culture of a region you are traveling to. While we’ve attended a number of football matches while in Europe, we’ve yet to explore any …

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As we’ve mentioned an exhaustive number of times, we feel like sport is one of the most underrated and underused methods of immersing yourself in the culture of a region you are traveling to. While we’ve attended a number of football matches while in Europe, we’ve yet to explore any of the other popular sports here (yes there is more than football), and this is something we are committed to changing in the next few months.

During our stay in Ljubljana we actually had a number of sports to choose from as the “Olimpija Club” (for lack of a better word) consists of football, basketball, hockey, and handball teams. We decided that going to a basketball game would be an enjoyable experience, and wouldn’t you know it, there was a game during our stay between Olimpija and Crvena Zvezda (formerly known as Red Star Belgrade).

The clamshell-ish Arena Stozice

The clamshell-ish Arena Stozice

A 20 minute bus ride took us to the stadium where we picked up ticket (6 Euro each) and a couple of beers (2 Euro each). The team plays in the brand new Arena Stozice, a 12,500 seat stadium with lime green and grey everywhere.Basketball-game-Ljubljana-2

The game itself was absolutely thrilling, with neither team ever leading by more than about 8 points. The 3,000 or so fans (nearly half of which were from Belgrade) screamed and jeered the opposition players and refs, much like every soccer game we’ve been to. In the end, Crvena Zvezda won 62-61, with a wide open layup with 5 seconds to go proving to be the difference. Basketball-game-LjubljanaWe had an absolutely amazing time at the game. Even if the game itself had been a boring affair, we still would have enjoyed the experience. We got to see a giant of a man (7ft4in to be exact) dunk the ball 6 times without jumping, some of the most revealing and sparkling cheerleading outfits on the planet, and watch many a balding, overweight man jump around and scream like they were 5 years old again.

Next time you are traveling be sure to check out sporting events that might be going on in your region. Hockey, Cricket, Rugby, Football, Kickboxing, Water Polo – every country has something different to offer, and you’ll probably be surprised at the amazing memories you will get to go home with.

On a side note, the “Green Dragons”, Olimpija’s Ultras group (aka the crazy/dedicated fans you see on TV) had a bit of a party going before the football match in the main square. They were singing and drinking and setting off flares and fireworks. They provided some excellent entertainment for the curious tourists, and all the while the Police kept a close watch…you can check out some photos below. I-predict-a-riot Ljubljana-fans Ljubljana-soccer-fanatics

PS: I think our next sporting event is going to be the Crvena Zvezda – Partizan football match – affectionately called the “Eternal Derby” and generally regarded as one of the most heated affairs in the footballing world.

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Ljubljana: Ups and Downs, Smiles and Frownshttp://haveblogwilltravel.org/ljubljana http://haveblogwilltravel.org/ljubljana#comments Wed, 23 Oct 2013 15:46:11 +0000 http://haveblogwilltravel.org/?p=1741 Leaving Piran wasn’t easy, and if not for the promise of an equally lovely, if not slightly more crowded city, I may not have boarded the bus. However, after a four hour ride through some stunning rolling hillsides dotted with small charming villages, we found ourselves in the Slovenian capital …

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Leaving Piran wasn’t easy, and if not for the promise of an equally lovely, if not slightly more crowded city, I may not have boarded the bus. However, after a four hour ride through some stunning rolling hillsides dotted with small charming villages, we found ourselves in the Slovenian capital of Ljubljana.

Often referred to as the “prettiest capital in Europe”, Ljubljana is very reminiscent of Vienna, just on a smaller scale. It also features a medieval quarter complete with a hilltop castle and several bridges that crisscross the Ljubljanica River that runs through the middle of the old town. After finding our hostel and setting our bags down, we headed back out to take advantage of the delightful sunny weather and find something to fill our grumbling bellies.

A boat traveling along the Ljubljanica River

A boat traveling along the Ljubljanica River

Widely regarded as a University city, with 63,000 students spread across 23 different faculties scattered throughout, Ljubljana has a very trendy, hip, and cool vibe; and as Travis and I are rarely described using any of those adjectives, we thought we might feel slightly out of place. These feelings were quickly dissuaded as we were introduced to Ljubljana’s very accepting and open culture. As our walking tour guide pointed out, Ljubljana is even home to Metelkova City, a self-declared autonomous squatter “city” in the former military barracks that is covered in graffiti and full of underground art galleries, bars, and clubs.ljub-4 water-fountain-awesome-travis ljub-1

Knowing that a free walking tour would be the best way to brush up on our Slovenian and Ljubljana-n history, we joined one that runs daily from the main square. As we wove through the city, our guide Tine (not Tina, that’s a girls name) not only provided a full run-down of Ljubljana from prehistoric pile dwellings to life in Yugoslavia to modern independence, but also shared all the juicy details about the city of today – what it’s like to live and study there, where to go for a bite, a drink, or some entertainment, and how Slovenians feel about the speculation that they may be the next EU country forced to ask for a bailout.

One of the iconic Green Dragons on the Dragon Bridge

One of the iconic Green Dragons on the Dragon Bridge

Unfortunately our time in Ljubljana was also a bit frustrating (although after so many carefree days in Piran perhaps we were due for some character building). In desperate need of laundry facilities, Travis made the trek to clean our clothes only to return unsuccessful 2+ hours later. Apparently the laundromats (plural) we’d found online didn’t seem to exist. The next day, feeling a bit grimier in our crusty t-shirts, we heard a large group being checked in to our hostel – their shrieking laughs and yelling served as a foreshadowing of the noise and commotion they would later use to keep us from sleeping. I’m still rather ranty about what happened and understand that this is to be expected in hostels so I will simply leave it at this: Cindy Lauper’s “Girls Just Wanna Have Fun” blaring from a ghetto blaster at 6 in the morning (after coming back to the hostel at 4am).  Do people even still use ghetto blasters anymore? Is ghetto blaster still a relevant term because it just makes me feel discriminatory.ljub5 Ljubljana

Needless to say, our last day in Ljubljana wasn’t overly productive. Actually the morning was used to catch up on the sleep we missed the night before, while the afternoon was spent eating deliciously crispy fried chicken and complaining relentlessly about the *&^%$&’s that had acted so obnoxiously the night before. By evening, we found our second wind and made it to a professional basketball game, which was extremely entertaining and something completely different that we hadn’t tried before (more on that in a future post).

One of the many beautiful buildings done in the Vienna Secession style

One of the many beautiful buildings done in the Vienna Secession style

Although Ljubljana is a city with no must-see attractions, that seems to suit it just fine and leaves more time for strolling the riverside or sitting in a cafe. Compared to many of the other European capitals we’ve visited, everything in Ljubljana feels a bit more relaxed, even the buskers and street performers were casual and all smiles (some didn’t even have bowls for a monetary contribution). After three beautiful days, it was unfortunately time to bid farewell to Slovenia, although with so much to offer, I’d like to hope we find our way back one day.

The main square and triple bridge at night

The main square and triple bridge at night

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Going Underground – The Skocjan Caveshttp://haveblogwilltravel.org/going-underground-skocjan-caves http://haveblogwilltravel.org/going-underground-skocjan-caves#comments Tue, 22 Oct 2013 13:03:53 +0000 http://haveblogwilltravel.org/?p=1729 Arriving in Piran, one of the must-see attractions atop our list was a visit to Slovenia’s famous caves. I’m not sure if there is any other experience that compares to caving, there is something unique about discovering another world underground,  and since Calli had been in only one other cave …

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Arriving in Piran, one of the must-see attractions atop our list was a visit to Slovenia’s famous caves. I’m not sure if there is any other experience that compares to caving, there is something unique about discovering another world underground,  and since Calli had been in only one other cave prior to our visit (Actun Tunichil Muknal in Belize), I figured this was a wonderful opportunity to do something different and take a break from walking through old towns and visiting museums.

Slovenia is known for having some of the most impressive cave systems in the world, due to the large Karst region that exists near its coastline. In particular, two stand out above all – the Postojna Caves and the Škocjan Caves. This Karst topography, comprised of limestone, causes the Reka River to disappear underground and emerge seven separate times. After doing some research, we decided that the Škocjan Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, were more to our liking as they seemed less touristy and less visited due to their distance from Ljubljana. As well, the many billboard signs we saw advertising the Postojna Caves featured a miniature train ride through the cave which seemed kind of Disneyland-esque.

The view of the collapsed doline..the height is just smaller than the largest room in the caves

The view of the collapsed doline..the height is just smaller than the largest room in the caves

The Reka River as it emerges from the caves

The Reka River as it emerges from the caves

Upon arriving at Skocjan, we were met by one of the problems of traveling in the off-season – the public transport and tour times didn’t line up, meaning we were going to have to wait an hour for our tour of the caves. To kill some time, we made a short walk to one of the lookout points on the education trail that circles the park (a recommendation from the attendant at the ticket booth). It was breathtaking, and just a preview of what was to come.

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(via)

When it came time for our tour, two guides led our very large group towards the cave entrance, a 10 minute decent from the main information centre. After breaking us into two smaller groups, one for German speaking visitors and a second for English and Italian guests, we were given a short prologue of what to expect in the cave, its history, and reminders to stay safe.

Entering the cave is a unique experience in itself, as you walk down an artificial shaft-like tunnel. Upon entering the cave, we were greeted by an absolutely amazing underground environment. Jaw-dropping stalagmites and stalactites covered the floors and ceilings, making the narrow walking path twist and turn. Our guide explained that the first section of the cave managed to avoid flooding hundreds of years ago and as a result, features enormous stalagmites that date back to the last ice age and in some cases even earlier.

(via)

(via)

As we wove our way through the cave system, we made our way towards the Reka River and upon entering this second section of the cave it was nearly impossible to hold a conversation above the noise of the rushing water. It is here where visitors take in one of the most famous views of the Skocjan Caves, the Cerkvenik Bridge, suspended nearly fifty meters above the riverbed below

The Cerkvenik Bridge

The Cerkvenik Bridge (via)

The Skocjan Caves are a geological marvel, at approximately 3.5 kilometers long, 10 to 60 meters wide, and over 140 meters high, the sheer size of the chambers is jaw dropping. The largest of these chambers has a volume of 2.2 million cubic meters, making it the largest underground chamber discovered in Slovenia and one of the largest in the world, however from the surface there is little sign of what lurks below. In addition to the complexity of mother nature’s power in creating this cave system, Calli and I were also blown away by the man made components of the cave as well. Clinging to the side of steep rock faces are the remains of crude walking paths used by the first people to explore the caves at the end of the 19th century. As well, without lights to guide the way, these early explorers cut chunks of stone from the ground and, after filling the holes with water, used carbide to create a reaction with this water and create pockets of light throughout the cave.

(via)

(via)

The Skocjan Caves are as interesting as they are beautiful, a definite must see while in Slovenia. We only wish we had been able to join a second tour of a second section of the system that has been discovered and explored more recently – unfortunately the times didn’t line up with our transportation back to Piran.

Logistics: The Škocjan Caves are located near the town of Divaca, just over an hour from Piran and two hours from Ljubljana by public transport. From Divaca, a short shuttle bus ride or a 30-40 minute walk takes you to the Park entrance. Tickets are 15 Euro for the standard cave tour and 20 if coupled with the new section. There are washrooms and a cafe at the caves (cafe is around 7 Euro for a burger and fries), but you can also bring your own lunch (as we did). The website for the caves can be found here.

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Calli’s Photo Feature 21.10.2013http://haveblogwilltravel.org/callis-photo-feature-21-10-2013 http://haveblogwilltravel.org/callis-photo-feature-21-10-2013#respond Mon, 21 Oct 2013 17:18:38 +0000 http://haveblogwilltravel.org/?p=1727 As I try to improve my photography skills on this trip, I have been working on being better “prepared” for shots that come up unexpectedly. Instead of quickly switching back to the safety of auto mode, I have been making a conscious effort to ensure my camera is on one …

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As I try to improve my photography skills on this trip, I have been working on being better “prepared” for shots that come up unexpectedly. Instead of quickly switching back to the safety of auto mode, I have been making a conscious effort to ensure my camera is on one of the manual modes and is set properly for the lighting conditions I find myself in, ready to snap a photo whenever the opportunity arises.

This photo came about in just this fashion. While absentmindedly wandering back to our hotel in Maribor, Travis and I came across a man playing his accordion in an underground passageway. I was immediately halted mid stride by the absence of other people in the area, the way the colours from the graffiti covered wall behind him popped, and the dim lighting that made the passageway appear to stretch on forever. Gesturing to Travis to stop for a moment, I quickly composed my shot before the man noticed we were there. One quick photo and we continued on our way, unnoticed, only after emerging above ground did I steal a glance down at the preview screen to see what I’d captured.

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The Accordion Player (Maribor, Slovenia)

Unfortunately, later I realize that in my excitement to snap the photo we didn’t stop to drop a few coins into the accordion player’s basket. It’s a shame as his music was really quite lovely.

If you ever find yourself in Maribor, enjoying this man’s beautiful music, please pass along a few coins from me, I’ll be forever grateful!

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Sunny Times in Piranhttp://haveblogwilltravel.org/sunny-times-piran http://haveblogwilltravel.org/sunny-times-piran#comments Sat, 19 Oct 2013 17:04:21 +0000 http://haveblogwilltravel.org/?p=1705 After two soggy days in Maribor, driving into Piran on a sunny afternoon felt like the first day of summer vacation. Staring out from the bus windows at happy people biking, swimming, and basking in the warm weather we couldn’t wait to get out and join them. Making the 45 …

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After two soggy days in Maribor, driving into Piran on a sunny afternoon felt like the first day of summer vacation. Staring out from the bus windows at happy people biking, swimming, and basking in the warm weather we couldn’t wait to get out and join them. Making the 45 minute commute from the train station in Koper to the seaside town of Piran was one of the longest in my life.

The beautiful promenade in Piran

The beautiful promenade in Piran

Sailboats in the marina

Sailboats in the marina

Quaint, charming, laid-back, and peaceful are all ways one could describe the little slice of coastline occupied by Piran, and while it is definitely under-visited compared to it’s more touristy neighbours, when we arrived on Sunday afternoon Piran was absolutely hopping! As we wandered past restaurants overflowing with patrons and parking lots unable to squeeze in one more tiny compact car, we began to worry the quiet little town we’d been promised online no longer existed. Luckily, our worries were short lived, as the streets began to clear out after dark and the next morning we awoke to a much different, less-inhabited, place.mermaid-statue-piran_mini boats-piran-split_mini

There isn’t much to do in Piran, and most of what it has to see can be covered in an hour or two, which is why the majority of visitors end up seeing the town as a day-trip from one of the busier, all-inclusive-hotel filled cities like Portorose (just 20 mins away). However, as our base for three sun soaked days, Piran was the perfect hideaway from the tourist buses and guided tours. With a charming marina, sea side promenade, and hill top city walls, we were able to fill two days while still finding time to relax and stare out at the ocean. This left our third day in the city free for a day trip to the nearby Skocjan Caves (which we will be sure to cover in a future post).

The view from the old city walls is amazing

The view from the old city walls is amazing

A squid extravaganza!

A squid extravaganza!

The red rooftops of Piran at sunset

The red rooftops of Piran at sunset

Leaving Piran wasn’t easy – we’d already quickly become attached to the lazy days and a delicious little seafood restaurant tucked away in a square off the main street**. Unfortunately we had no choice as there is even more of Slovenia we want to discover, including the capital of Ljubljana. Taking one last inhale of salty sea air and a good look around, we boarded the bus and left this slice of paradise, at least for now.

The main square from above

The main square from above

...and from the water.

…and from the water.

Practicing our night photography

Practicing our night photography

Logisitcs: Piran is just one of a number of small towns that dot the 42km of Slovenia’s Adriatic Coast. The hub for the region is Koper (17 km north), which is the only town connected by rail (and has frequent service to Ljubljana taking just over 2hrs). Frequent bus service connects Koper to Izola, Piran, and the other coastal resort cities (Koper to Piran takes about 45 mins and costs 3.60 per person). Piran can be traversed easily on foot (plus parking costs 24 Euro a day), so if you have a car leave it in one of the lots outside the city. Great views can be had from the old town walls – be aware they cost 1 Euro and they only take coins! You can get there from the main square, just follow the signs.

**The restaurant we enjoyed was Fritolin Pir Cantini, a local and more traditional self-service style place located on the smaller square (Trg 1 maja). You place your order at the counter and grab a drink from the bar next door if you want. When you’re done you pay both for what you had. Fried squids and fries (and bread) cost 7.90, a pretty good deal!

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