A simple shoe shine may not seem like a big deal in North America, but in Turkey these portable stalls pop up everywhere. While some are as sparkling as the first day they were purchased, others are tarnished with years of polish, a badge of honor depicting the thousands of shoes that have found renewal in the hands of a talented shoe shiner.

The men who work these stalls are all different as well – their appearances seeming to mirror that of their stalls. Unfortunately, a search online only brings up warnings of shoe shining scams, nothing of their history or importance in Turkey. I assume that the practice relates back to religion, as so many things seem to, and the Muslim practices of Ablution – the necessity for cleanliness. Although this is simply my attempt to make sense of something unfamiliar and new.

Either way, this quiet moment between shoe shiner and customer was a welcome departure from the clamour of the Grand Bazaar, if only too short.

The post Calli’s Photo Feature 9.12.2013 appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

Although we tried our best to cram as many of these pictures in our posts on Istanbul’s neighbourhoods, Mosques, and bazaars, we still have so many pictures left over. We will share everything on Flickr, eventually, but until then, here are a few more shots of our time in Istanbul.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Istanbul and can’t wait to return one day – if only so Travis can try a “wet burger”. We promise this is our last post on Istanbul until we wrap up our time in Turkey, only two short weeks to go!

The post Istanbul in Pictures appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

1. Know how to get to your accommodation….really well!

Istanbul is absolutely huge and can be very chaotic at certain times of the day. This can be a bit of a shock when you finally emerge into the city – especially if you don’t know exactly where you are going! A map, the address, and a list of major nearby streets can all be extremely helpful in finding you accommodations.

Istiklal Street at night – an added challenge to finding our apartment

Probably the easiest and cheapest way to get to Taksim from the airports is via the Havatas Airport Bus. These drop off at various locations before their final destination at Taksim Square. If you are heading to Sultanahmet, then a number of other options may be easier. Great advice can be found on Turkish Travel Planner (Sabiha instructions & Ataturk instructions).

FYI, we took the Havatas Bus from Sabiha – it was really easy and straightforward! We walked out the front doors and two buses were waiting – there is also a small service desk if no buses are there at the moment. Buses leave every 30 mins and cost 13TL per person. It takes from 50 mins and upwards to get to Taksim, depending on the traffic.

2. Get an IstanbulKart ASAP!

Just like an Oyster Card in London, the IstanbulKart is your gateway to Istanbul’s excellent public transport system. You only need ONE card for up to 5 people and you can reload it at almost any major transport stop. However we found actually getting the card the hard part. They can (allegedly) be purchased from some major transit stops (although we didn’t see them at very many) and via private sellers like newspaper stands. You can also buy one at Ataturk airport, but not Sabiha Gokcen airport as far as we could tell. Your best bet might just be asking your hotel concierge or guesthouse owner the best place to buy one.

The card is a non-refundable 6TL, and rides cost 1.95 each (and then less for subsequent rides). This saves you 1.05 or more for each ride you take, a savings that adds up pretty quickly.

3. Get out of Sultanahmet at least once!

Sure Sultanahmet is where all the “must-sees” of Istanbul reside, but the neighbourhoods outside the old city centre are where all the action really happens. Better food, livelier atmosphere, cheaper prices, and of course far fewer carpet salesman await you in Beyoglu, Kadikoy, Ortakoy, and many of the other interesting neighbourhoods just a short ride or walk from Sultanahmet.

The maze of Beyoglu

4. Hop on a ferry.

The ferry system in Istanbul is an awesome (and cheap!) way to see the city. For just the cost of a public transport ride (1.95 TL), you can get a unique look at Istanbul from the water. Ferry rides are also a cheap alternative to a Bosphorous Cruise and are one of the best ways to get to the wonderful neighbourhoods we’ve been going on and on about!

The view of Sultanahmet from a Ferry

5. Get up high for a completely different perspective

You can’t truly appreciate how big Istanbul is without seeing it from above. Whether that’s during your flight in, or by going up in a structure like Galata Tower, you will definitely feel small once you see what surrounds you. Istanbul is one of the largest cities in the entire world – and visualizing that is definitely an experience in its own right. Without this view of Istanbul, it’s impossible to fully appreciate everything going on around you.

A trip up Galata tower will set you back 10TL per person, but it is an enjoyable experience and a great way to get a panoramic view of the city. Plus, the tower has a very interesting and storied history in and of itself.

The view from Galata Tower

6. Don’t drink the Water!

While tap water has improved in recent years, bottled water is still the safest way to stay hydrated. Whenever possible, we try to refrain from drinking drink bottled water, but Istanbul is not the place to do that! Bottled water is cheap and plentiful, and many accommodations provide large jugs for you to refill at. Probably better to be safe than miss out on the city because you’re sick!

7. Try new things!

Whether it’s eating strange street food like Kokorec, experiencing a Turkish Hamam for the first time, or hearing your fist call to prayer, there are many strange and exciting things to experience in this diverse and interesting city. Open your mind to the new and sometimes crazy things Istanbul has to offer and you will be rewarded with more than enough stories to take back home.

Turkish delight, definitely a new experience!

Of course it goes without saying that the normal precautions and tips apply. Like every big city, be aware of your surroundings and be careful of scams and pickpocketers on public transport or near major tourist attractions. We found that the Turkish people are some of the most kind people we’ve met while traveling, but, like everywhere, there are likely a few bad ones in the bunch.

Do you have any more tips for making your stay in Istanbul more enjoyable?? Leave us a comment and we’ll be sure to spread the word!  

The post 7 Tips to Make Your Stay in Istanbul More Enjoyable appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

We made it a point to check out a few of these neighbourhoods and we enjoyed each one of them immensely…here are our three favorites:

Beyoglu

The home of Taksim Square, Istiklal Street, the Galata Tower, and quite possibly your accommodations (that’s where we stayed!), Beyoglu is as close to the polar opposite of Sultanahmet as you can come in Istanbul. With a vibrant night-life – it’s not even busy until at least 9pm – and some of the best food on offer in the city, this is a part of the city you should visit at least once!

The view to Beyoglu from the water

Istiklal Street on a Friday night. I shudder to picture this same street in the summer months.

Our favorite things to do in Beyoglu include riding the Tunel (the second oldest subway in the world – and the best way to get up the hill), climbing to the top of Galata Tower for stunning views of the city, walking along the modern and trendy Istiklal street, eating at Durumzade (Anthony Bourdain wasn’t lying), and people watching in Taksim Square.

The view towards Sultanahmet from Galata Tower

Logistics: the easiest, cheapest, and probably most fun way to get to Beyoglu from Sultanahmet is to walk across the Galata Bridge and then take the Tunel up the hill. It drops you off at the bottom of Istiklal Street, and from there it is about a 20 minute walk (plus more for the crowds) to Taksim. The Galata tower (you can’t miss it – it’s huge!) is open everyday (10TL).

Ortakoy

Known best for it’s beautiful waterfront mosque, Ortakoy is a nice change from the mayhem of much of the rest of Istanbul. This neighbourhood, located right in front of the massive Bosphorous Bridge, has a distinct relaxed feel to it. Oh, and did we mention huge baked potatoes? These amazing creations, called Kumpir, are the specialty of the neighbourhood – in fact, there’s a whole street dedicated just to selling them. You can get them with almost limitless combinations of toppings (from potato salad to cut up hot dogs and everything in between).

The perfectly located Ortakoy Mosque with the Bosphorous Bridge in the distance

Ortakoy is a great place to wander around for a couple of hours, and if you get bored, you can always make the short walk to Dolmabache Palace for a lesson in opulence!

Kumpir sttuffed with couscous, cabbage, corn, olives, and even potato salad, they are traditionally topped with mayo and ketchup, although we prefer yogurt.

Logistics: Although it’s located on the water, Ortakoy does not seem to be serviced by any sort of frequent ferry travel. Instead, it is probably best to take the ferry to Uskudar and then take the ferry to Besiktas. From there it is about a 15 minute walk along the main road (past Dolmabache Palace and Galatasaray University) until you reach Ortakoy.

Kadikoy

If you fancy hitting up two continents in a day, there is no better place than Kadikoy to fulfill that dream. Plus it is an amazing part of town. Located on the Asian side of the city, Kadikoy is home to a fantastic bazaar and some of the best food in town. Also, if you are in town on a Tuesday or Saturday you can head over for the famous Tuesday Market – home to over 4000 stalls!

The view from the port at Kadikoy

Midye – fresh caught mussels for sale in the bazaar in Kadikoy

If you want some of the best food in the city, you could not have picked a better place. Fresh seafood, fruits, vegetables, and great little restaurants abound in the bazaar – and all at noticeably lower prices than on the European sides. We got a plate of Hamsi (Black Sea anchovies – which were amazing as we were there during their season), a couple fried mussel sandwiches (mussels are called ‘midye’ in Turkish) and a couple of beers for less than 20 TL – an absolute bargain!

Humans aren’t the only fishermen in Kadikoy

Freshly caught Hamsi (aka Black Sea Anchovies)

Logistics: Getting to Kadikoy is simple – you  can take a ferry from just about anywhere! Finding the bazaar and market can be a little harder. The bazaar is to the right of the main road (if your back is facing the water) about 4 minutes walk up. The market has moved to a new location – it is about 3km from the port. A taxi or bus 8A are your best bet – just ask a local if you get lost, everyone is friendly!

So there you have it, three MORE places to add to your already growing list of what to see and do in Istanbul!

Have you ever visited one of these neighbourhoods or one we didn’t mention? Let us know in the comments below!

*Note: We lied, you can’t actually get away from the carpet sellers…

The post Beyond Sultanahmet – Istanbul’s Unique Neighbourhoods appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

This picture was taken immediately after exiting the Blue Mosque, just as the call to prayer began. Before praying, Muslims must perform Ablution, the procedure for washing parts of the body using water in preparation for formal prayers. This washing includes the face, neck, both arms including the elbows, and both feet up to and including the ankles. There are many permitted and prohibited water types that can be used for this washing, and each Mosque provides an area for the washing to occur.

As I found myself in one such area, outside the Blue Mosque during the call to prayer, I saw that this man had completed his washing and stood patiently waiting for a friend to finish and join him. I really liked the shot over his shoulder showing other men and one young boy also washing in preparation for prayer.

Shortly after I snapped this photo, the man was joined by his friend, and the two made their way into the Mosque, while Travis and I moved on to explore more of Istanbul.

The post Calli’s Photo Feature 02.12.2013 appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

The Basilica Cistern

Built in the 6th century by Emperor Justinian, the Basilica Cistern is just one of the hundreds of Cisterns located deep below the streets of Istanbul. Measuring over 100,000 square feet in size, this cathedral-sized cistern provided water for the structures on the “First Hill” (the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, etc.) of Constantinople and then Istanbul.

The huge columns of the Basilica Cistern

But this is no ordinary holding tank.  With Corinthian and Ionic marble and granite columns (which seem to have been brought from all corners of the Roman Empire) and beautiful firebrick arches along the ceiling, the structure is an amazing place to behold.  Curiously, two of the columns contain huge sculptures of Medusa (even more curiously they are aligned upside-down and sideways). Today, elegant red lighting and huge fish swimming in the 3 foot deep water just add to the mysterious feeling of the building.

We really enjoyed exploring the Basilica Cistern thanks to it’s calm atmosphere. With large suspended walkways, visitors can move around at their own pace and have lots of room (although I’m not sure how busy it may be during peak tourist season). While the site itself is tucked underground, away from the noise of the busy streets ahead. If a few moments of seclusion aren’t your thing, there are also fish that live in the few feet of water covering the cistern’s floor.

Walking paths weave through the Cistern

Reflections in the water on the cistern’s floor just add to the experience

Logistics: The Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici in Turkish) is located just 500 meters from the Hagia Sophia. It is open every day and costs 10TL. If you’re a photographer, it also presents the unique opportunity to set up a tripod, something that’s not always allowed in major attractions (or that’s what we’ve experienced anyways).

The Topkapi Palace

For over 400 years, this stunning palace was the home of the Ottoman Sultans, and today it stands as one of Istanbul’s most amazing sights. After it’s initial construction in 1459, the palace was continuously expanded and renovated for centuries, and survived both an earthquake in 1509 and a fire in 1655. At it’s peak, the palace contained a hospital, bakeries, mosques, and a mint. As a structure, it more closely resembles the Alhambra of Granada, with its complex of smaller buildings intermixed with gardens and ponds, than more traditional “palaces” like Versailles or Schonbrunn. Topkapi felt like a place of relaxation rather than a display of overt opulence.

The Topkapi Palace is decorated with beautiful stone and tile-work

The exteriors are just as lovely as the interiors

Following the end of the Ottoman Empire in 1923, the palace was transformed in a museum. Today, the palace complex is comprised of four main courtyards and many smaller buildings, many of which are open for viewing. The museum’s collection on display includes many Ottoman treasures, Islamic calligraphic manuscripts, robes, weapons, and jewelry. Perhaps the most stunning part of the palace is the handmade colourful tiles that cover most of the structures found there.

A luxurious reading room, one of Calli’s favorite spots in the Palace

High arches and gilded details of the Palace

During our week in Istanbul, the Topkapi Palace was the busiest tourist attraction we visited – likely due to the gorgeous sunny weather on that particular Saturday. While the architecture and decor is beautiful both inside and out of the palace, the large gardens make this site particularly special. It’s worth waiting for a nice day to visit (if you can) simply to spend some extra time perched on a bench overlooking the city below.

Logistics: The palace is located “behind” the Hagia Sophia – you can’t miss it. Entrance is 25 TL (plus 15 TL if you want to visit the Harem), and it is closed Tuesdays.

Gulhane Park

Formerly the outer gardens of the Topkapi Palace, this beautiful green space is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of Sultanahmet. There’s not much to do here but relax on a bench and enjoy the cool shade of the trees.

The park borders Topkapi Palace

Suleymaniye Mosque

Larger and older than the Blue Mosque, this is one of the most dominating features of the Sultanahmet skyline. Built in the 16th century, the mosque has a beautiful courtyard and cemetery. Given its proximity to the Grand Bazaar, it receives surprisingly few visitors.

The massive Suleymaniye Mosque at dusk

Eminonu

The main port of Sultanahmet, Eminonu is one of the busiest centres of the city and provides a great opportunity for people watching. In addition to watching people fish, shop, and rush  to board the frequent ferries, visitors can explore the nearby Egyptian Bazaar and Yeni Mosque. Or maybe visit the interesting stores selling everything from belt buckles to cabinet knobs around the Rustem Pasha Mosque (one of the prettiest in the city). One of our favorite things to do in this area was simply walk across the Galata Bridge to Karakoy. Made of two levels, this bridge has numerous seafood restaurants on it’s lower level where patrons can enjoy the catch of the day and countless fisherman spend the day hauling whatever they can catch from the top deck.

The Yeni Mosque at Eminonu from the Galata Bridge

Fishermen take advantage of the annual Black Sea Anchovy run

If the last few posts about sightseeing and shopping in Sultanahmet hasn’t filled up your itinerary yet, be sure to stay tuned for our tips on what to see in some of Istanbul’s unique neighbourhoods.

The post Sultanahmet – The Best of the Rest appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

We made our way to three of the city’s oldest and most well known Bazaars during our time in Istanbul – The Grand Bazaar, Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar, and Arasta Bazaar. Although our foray into shopping didn’t go exactly as planned, we thoroughly enjoyed exploring Istanbul’s culture of bazaars and markets.

Carpets on display at the Arasta Bazaar

As I read reviews of these Bazaars prior to our visit, it became apparent that more and more people are hesitant about visiting. Harrowing tales of scams, schemes, and ripoffs by pushy salesmen are enough to leave even the most hardcore of shoppers feeling apprehensive. I too felt apprehensive at the thought of hordes of salesmen yelling to get my attention. After desperately luring me into their store, awkward haggling would take place, and they would unfairly pull out photos of their family, using guilt to make me pay more for the item I wanted. The shopping accounts online read like fiction.

Fortunately this is not at all what we experienced. While a few sellers in the Bazaars did call out to us from the doorways of their little shops, many seemed preoccupied with reading the paper or drinking tea. In fact, we were bothered far more by salesmen in the street, offering to take us to their brother’s/cousin’s/friend’s store, who has a place in/has been to/wants to visit Canada.

The Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is one of Istanbul’s most recognizable landmarks, alongside sites like the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. It is also enormous – a common theme in Istanbul. Dating back to the 15th century, today’s Grand Bazaar has 21 gates, 56 streets, over 4,000 shops, 1 mosque, numerous cafes and restaurants, covers 76 acres, and employs nearly 30,000 people. Maybe enormous is an understatement.

An aerial view of the Grand Bazaar (via)

Main Street of the Grand Bazaar (via)

The Grand Bazaar’s painted arches (via)

Whether they’ve come to haggle or simply browse, anywhere from 250,000 to 400,000 daily visitors check out this Bazaar before leaving Istanbul, even if it’s only “for the experience”. Prior to our visit I was keen to shop at the Grand Bazaar, hoping to find some great deals and one-of-a-kind keepsakes to remember our visit. Reports of other visitors read like a shopping fantasy land; However, as we strolled through its maze of stalls and shops, we quickly realized that finding something special to take home wouldn’t be so easy. Silk scarves, fake designer bags, sparkly costume jewelry, tea sets, kilims and carpets…everything you can imagine can be found in and around the Grand Bazaar – and it stretches on forever! We even saw a store selling wedding dresses. Many stores appear to stock just one thing, like belt cording and buckles or kitchen staples like whisks and spatulas. It’s truly incredible to see.

Kilim prints can be found on almost anything, including boots

Once Turkey’s primary commercial hub for both local and international traders, the Grand Bazaar has refocused it’s attentions on Istanbul’s growing tourism trade. Unfortunately, it seems like nowadays the vast majority of the items for sale in the Grand Bazaar are cheaply made and mass-produced in places like China. Although they are still offered at rock bottom prices, shopping in the Grand Bazaar loses much of its luster when you realize that you can buy these same goods in souvenir shops around the world. How can a souvenir remind us of Turkey if it isn’t even made there?

Bright stacks of painted pottery

Hundreds of necklace strands

Lost in a maze of identical looking shops hawking the same standard products I felt beaten. Visiting the Grand Bazaar was a huge letdown. However there is hope for the intrepid shopper. After much exploration, back tracking, and a much needed lunch break, we managed to find a few quality shops scattered amongst the maze of stores that is the Grand Bazaar.

For handmade and unique items, the Antique Bazaar (a section of the Grand Bazaar) is the place to go and was easily our favorite section of the Bazaar. The Antiques Bazaar was relatively quiet with an incredible selection of jewelry, watches, copper-wares and memorabilia for sale. I was primarily interested in buying a piece of jewelry (silver and natural stone – not the gold for sale in other areas of the bazaar) to commemorate our trip, and we found plenty of pieces to drool over here.

Pretty little bangles all in a row

Unfortunately, the bartering process didn’t go as well as planned. Although we’d read that final prices in the Bazaar normally end up being 50-60% of the initial quoted price once the bartering is done, a different set of rules seem to be used in the Antique Bazaar. After finding a particularly lovely pendant of turquoise and coral, I was quoted a price of 175 Lira ($88 CAD). A fair starting price for a piece of this size, and comparable to what I could find online, however this is Turkey, where access to materials and labour costs work in the merchants favour. The owner didn’t seem overly motivated to barter and after twenty minutes, he was still only willing to drop the price five to ten lira (the equivalent of $2.50 – 5.00 CAD). Alas, the prices were too rich for our blood and in the end we walked away empty handed.

For a quality statement piece of jewelry, the Antique Bazaar is your best bet. The Brothers has a great selection of silver jewelry featuring natural stones (turquoise, lapis, coral, and amber being the most prominent). Of note were the beautiful cuff bracelets with stone inlay and large stone rings, as well as intricate enamel earrings that reminded me of ornate Turkish tiles.

Plenty of pretty stone and silver pendants

The Egyptian Bazaar

The Egyptian Bazaar, also known as the Spice Bazaar is located in Sultanahmet at the bottom of the Yeni Mosque. Completed in 1660, the Bazaar was the centre for the spice trade in Istanbul. While the bazaar still predominately sells spices, tea blends, dried fruits, candies, and Turkish Delight, a few tourist shops have started to move in. Although we saw many locals attending prayer in the nearby mosques and boarding water taxis in the area, this bazaar does not seem to be where they shop. Instead it appears to cater to tourists. Therefore, we quickly deduced that 1) Prices here are likely inflated and 2) The quality is likely better elsewhere.

Turkish Delights at the Egyptian Bazaar

Turkish candy made of dried fruit and nuts

While the spice bazaar is still fun to walk through, we actually found that the sellers here were much more aggressive than at the Grand Bazaar. However they still weren’t as pushy as many people would lead you to believe. Perhaps our visit was well timed during the off season and away from peak tourism (and therefore “money earning” times)?

If you are looking to bring home spices from Istanbul, the Spice Bazaar is likely still a fine place to buy them. However I’d recommend first reading up on some reputable stores, as well as how to tell that the spices are fresh and authentic. Also, it’s always a good idea to look into what can and can’t be brought through customs. For example, the dried flowers in tea blends may be confiscated by customs officials.

If you are looking to save a few dollars, or simply want a more authentic shopping experience, we found a great selection of the same spices and dried fruits at the market in Kadikoy, on the Asian side of Istanbul.

A spice stall in the area surrounding the Grand Bazaar

It was anchovy season in Istanbul and the little fish were for sale everywhere

The Arasta Bazaar

The Arasta Bazaar is a small market close to the Blue Mosque known for it’s jewelry, pottery textiles, and carpet shops. It was our favorite of Istanbul’s bazaars for it’s quiet, calm atmosphere and the absence of droves of tourists.

In addition to window shopping uninterrupted, we found some truly beautiful shops at the Arasta Bazaar, all with beautiful displays in their windows and in the space outside the front of the store. Many of these stores carry beautiful jewelry, comparable to only the higher end shops in the Grand Bazaar. While many of the prices we saw or were quoted were comparable to those at the Grand Bazaar, we liked the lack of a hard sell/pressure to buy, and were less suspicious of the quality and origin of the products.

A display in the Arasta Bazaar

A cat dozing on a stack of pillow covers in the quiet Arasta Bazaar

Although the Arasta Bazaar had many beautiful shops, we only made one purchase – at Jennifer’s Hamam. Originally from Canada, Jennifer has created a mini-empire of three beautiful stores (all in the Arasta Bazaar) that offer beautiful hand woven bath linens. We especially love that all her products are made using traditional old loom methods, by local craftsmen, and using natural materials grown and produced in Turkey under sustainable conditions. These are the types of products we love to take home as souvenirs and gifts!

One of Jennifer’s three stores in the Arasta Bazaar (via)

While the plush woven towels were incredible – as big as a blanket with a lifespan of 20 years – they unfortunately wouldn’t fit in our backpacks. However, we have not given up the idea of having a couple shipped home in the near future. Instead of plush towels, we opted to bring home a woven pestamel, or traditional hamam (Turkish Bath) towel. Flat woven by hand, using fibers like organic cotton and bamboo, the pestamel more closely resembles a North American scarf than a towel. And with so many beautiful colours to choose from it was hard not to walk away with the full spectrum. With prices starting at only 25 Lira ($12.50 CAD) there is no reason to return home from Istanbul with anything less authentic.

Stacks of colourful pestamels (via)

Hand weaving on an old loom (via)

Although our shopping adventure in Turkey wasn’t as productive as we initially thought it would be, our bank accounts are grateful. After sifting through an array of mass-produced, poor quality, and fake/counterfeit goods, we were able to find some truly unique items worthy of taking home. Unfortunately many people are likely unaware that these handcrafted and authentic items are still available, or don’t care, as the market for the cheap, poor quality, tourist junk continues to grow. Some traditional sites like the Grand Bazaar are being swallowed up and are slowly turning into a giant souvenir shop. At least we can move on and explore other parts of Turkey knowing we didn’t contribute – but rather opted to support local craftsmen and local economies.

This post is part of #SundayTraveler – a great place to link up with other amazing travel blogs and get your fill of travel inspiration. Check out the hosts – Pack Me To, A Southern Gypsy, The Fairytale Traveler, Ice Cream and Permafrost, and Chasing the Donkey.

The post Seeking Treasure in Istanbul’s Bazaars appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

The Blue Mosque (left) and Hagia Sophia (right) from the water

Built facing each other in a large open space, the two massive buildings dominate the skyline of Sultanahmet from miles away, and draw tourists year-round from all corners of the globe. The histories of both buildings are fascinating, and venturing into both is a quintessential Istanbul experience.

Hagia Sophia

Built between 532 and 537 AD, the Hagia Sophia (also known as the Ayasofya in Turkish) is a true ancient wonder. Few places can boast even half the history that this building has seen, from its origins as an Eastern Orthodox Cathedral built by Emperor Justinian, to its sacking and conversion into a Roman Catholic Cathedral by Latin Crusaders, to its conversion into a Mosque after Constantinople fell to the Ottomans in the 15th century, to its final conversion into a museum in 1935.

The Imposing Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia’s ornately decorated domed ceiling

Today, the structure is a place where ancient cultures meet and mix in a most amazing way. Much like we felt in the Mezquita in Cordoba or the Alhambra in Granada, the blending of religions and cultures produces a striking contrast. This is most clearly evident in the Hagia Sophia where Byzantine mosaics depicting Jesus and the Holy Family sit side by side with Islamic calligraphy reciting lines form the Qur’an.

The large entry hall, complete with enormous chandelier

Walking into the massive structure, visitors are first met by a set of three enormous doors, and it is impossible not to marvel at the building’s overwhelming immensity. Further display’s of the Hagia Sophia’s size and grandeur are everywhere as visitors explore the marble covered ground floor and upper gallery. From the giant low-hanging chandeliers, that dwarf all those that pass below, to huge stone columns and archways, everything is bigger inside this building.

A mind boggling scaffolding set-up helps showcase the building’s size

Large archways dwarf this little girl

The Blue Mosque

Istanbul’s most important and second largest mosque, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (better known to tourists as the Blue Mosque) stand opposite the Hagia Sophia. With its six towering minarets and enormous courtyard, the imposing structure is definitely one that makes you feel small.

The Blue Mosque on a sunny morning

Inside the Mosque’s courtyard even the doors are oversized

The Mosque entrance from the courtyard

Built between 1609 and 1616, the mosque is one of the most impressive and beautiful examples of Islamic Architecture we’ve seen on our travels. We were extremely excited to visit as it was to be our first trip actually inside a mosque. And we couldn’t have picked a better one to be our first.

After taking off our shoes and placing them in the conveniently supplied carry bags, and making sure Calli still looked trendy with her headscarf on, we ventured inside. Much like the Hagia Sophia, the interior of the building immediately took our breath away. Decorated with over 20,000 handmade ceramic tiles from the nearby city of Iznik (ancient Nicaea), 200 stained glass windows, enormous chandeliers, and covered in Islamic calligraphy – the mosque is absolutely stunning inside.

Exterior decoration in the courtyard

The interior is decorated in fine detail

We spent a long time walking on the slightly pungent carpet (clearly imprinted from hundreds of years of prayer) and staring up at the building. With so much to see, photographing the mosque proved difficult, both as a result of the intricate beauty all around us and the immensity of the structure, which can hold 10,000 Muslims for prayer.

The painted domes and pillars are quite beautiful

The Blue Mosque rivals the Hagia Sophia in size

There are very few places in the world where two such incredible sites sit side-by-side. As though still in competition to see which can wow visitors more, The Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque feel more like one attraction than two. While the Blue Mosque is still used for daily prayer, it gives visitors an authentic glimpse into the Muslim religion, and the Hagia Sophia works as an extension of this experience, as a wonderful museum that visitors can fully explore without fear of overstepping. Together both are the must see attraction for visitors to Istanbul.

The Blue Mosque’s courtyard

Logistics: The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia are must-sees for any visitor to Istanbul. The tram stop on line 1 is “Sultanahmet” – you can’t miss it from there. The Hagia Sophia is open every day except Mondays (check for hours in the season you are visiting as they change). Entrance is 25 TL ($12.50ish). The Blue Mosque is open every day, but entrance times change depending on daylight hours – you cannot go in during prayer time. We found that morning is the best time to visit. Entrance is free and baggies for your shoes are provided. Make sure to come fully clothed (long sleeves and pants or a full dress – a headscarf is also mandatory).

Plan on at least an hour inside each. Note that three may be lines during peak season (we had no lines and walked straight in…but that was November). After you are done, grab a drink and a doner – you have the rest of the day to check out some of the other amazing sights in Sultanahmet.

The post Istanbul’s Impressive Mosques – Sultan Ahmed and the Hagia Sophia appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

Istanbul, it’s so hard to hate you

Charming little Piran, my favorite stop in Slovenia.

Enter Istanbul. The largest city in Turkey with an approximate population of 13.9 million people, and also one of the largest in the world. Istanbul is far from small. In fact, it’s the largest city we’ve ever visited and is home to more people than our entire province of British Columbia (crammed into 5,343 square kilometers, 0.57% of the land size of BC). Therefore, I’m sure you can understand my hesitation to allocate a whole week to our visit. As it turns out, I actually came to love Istanbul, and with so much to see and do here we haven’t had much time to sit around and come up with reasons to dislike the place.

Istanbul is enormous, this photo doesn’t even include the part of the city located on the continent of Asia (via)

A Satellite view of Istanbul at night (via)

As a city, Istanbul has everything I normally shy away from – crazy traffic (including an overabundance of obnoxious honking horns), crowded streets, smog, salesmen wanting to show you their carpet store, hot temperatures, humidity, and millions of tourists lacking any form of self-awareness. How then did I come to like this city so much – and perhaps even love it? Here’s what I’ve been able to come up with.

1. Istanbul is beautiful – in an obscure kind of way

She isn’t Paris, or Vienna, or Bruges, but Istanbul is beautiful in her own way. And while much of the architecture leaves something to be desired, Istanbul’s beauty isn’t found in ornately carved details and shiny new paint jobs, but on the street level where people go about their day-to-day lives, and the winding cobblestone paths lead you in directions you never would have thought to go.

Buildings stacked on buildings, the colours in Istanbul are subtle but beautiful

A vintage trolly weaves its way along modern Istiklal Street

2. Being on the water is my kryptonite

You could take me to some sort of freezing cold hell, where Sarah McLachlan commercials play on a continuous loop, and I would be fine so long as we were beside a large body of water – river, lake, ocean it really doesn’t matter. As fate would have it, Istanbul is surrounded by the Sea (it’s everywhere!), making the hustle and bustle of the big city melt into the background. As an added bonus, one of the best ways to get around the city is via FERRY; I have found my new happy place!

Fishermen take advantage of the annual anchovy run

Seagulls fly alongside the ferry, diving into the water in search of food

3. The off-season is the best season

While our visit in November may not be everyone’s ideal time to visit Istanbul, it has worked out marvelously. The weather has been glorious (sunny but not too hot), the crowds have been thin, and the carpet salesmen and hawkers have been relatively civil – at least compared to the horror stories I’ve read online. We also haven’t had to line up for a single attraction or fight our way onto overcrowded public transit, making the visit all the more enjoyable.

Topkapi Palace was one of the more crowded attractions we visited, and yet still quite quiet

Istiklal Street on a Friday night. I shudder to picture this same street in the summer months.

4. They have a freaking yarn bazaar

Although I struck out at the Grand Bazaar, where the majority of the goods seemed to be mass produced in China and the rest was way out of my price range, the story of our stop at the yarn bazaar has a much happier ending. The selection wasn’t the ‘holy-land of knitting’ I’d dreamed of, consisting mostly of thinner lace and sock yarn; however, I was able to find some awesome chunky 100% Australian Yarn (hand dyed to boot!) for a killer price. Since you’re clearly just dieing to know, I’m making a scarf. Don’t expect too many posts in the next week as I will be preoccupied until the yarn runs out.

I purchased similar yarn for my next knitting project.

5. It’s impossible to hate Istanbul

As much as I’ve talked about how “I normally hate big cities but Istanbul is sooooo different”, in reality, it’s just hard to hate this city. There is so much to do that anyone could be happy; shopping for the big spenders and cheap knock offs for the wannabes, culture and history for the civilized and grilled lamb kebabs for the carnivores, quiet parks or sandy beaches for a day of fun, and a freaking yarn bazaar! Istanbul kept us so busy that we are completely exhausted after just seven days in the city – thank goodness it’s time to leave because we really need a break.

The Aya Sofia gives visitors plenty to explore

Istanbul has a vast array of new dishes to try. One of our favorites were these enormous potatoes. Stuffed with couscous, cabbage, corn, olives, and even potato salad, they are traditionally topped with mayo and ketchup, although we prefer yogurt.

So there it is – I like Istanbul, possibly even love it – although I normally reserve that type of language until at least ten or twelve days into a new relationship. Will we be back? Most definitely! I can honestly see us visiting over and over as time goes by, unless Travis starts to get jealous of my new admiration.

The post Why Liking Istanbul was Such a Surprise appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.