Looking back at Pier Head from Albert Dock

In addition to having to live up to the expectations of cities past, Liverpool also has a reputation to maintain as a city of music, football, and culture. It’s exactly this triple-threat that attracts over 4.6 million tourists to the city each year – each one jonesing for a stroll down Matthew Street and a visit to the infamous Cavern Club, known for hosting a pre-Beatlemania John, Paul, George, and Ringo, as well as other distinguished acts including The Hollies, The Rolling Stones, The Kinks, Elton John, Queen, and the Who.

The iconic Cavern Club

Although the role Liverpool played in creating The Beatles should be reserved for debate by fans more hardcore than we, it’s difficult to claim that any present day city has bound itself to the Fab Four more so than present day Liverpool. Their likenesses are plastered all over the town – statues, posters, memorabilia of every kind. It’s impossible to go anywhere in downtown Liverpool without seeing those famous mop-heads.

A sculpture of John Lennon leans against the red brick walls of the rebuilt Cavern Club

Lennon’s Bar – one of many pubs named in honour of The Beatles

An apartment resembling a Yellow Submarine sits in the Pier Head neighbourhood awaiting its next Beatle-crazed guest

But Liverpool is much more than just the Beatles. Named a European Capital of Culture 2008, with the famous Pier Head Waterfront being a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2004, it is a city of contrasting architectural styles, wonderful culture and museums, and a spectacular waterfront.

Our walk along Liverpool’s iconic Pier Head begins at the Royal Liver Building, easily recognizable by its pair of clock towers topped with matching mythical Liver Bird sculptures. It is said that the bird at the front of the building is female and she looks out over the sea watching for the fishermen to return while the bird at the back of the building is male and he looks out over the city centre waiting for the pubs to open. While the story may be amusing, the birds are hard to miss and a must see during any stay in Liverpool.

The Liver Building with matching clock towers and Liver Bird sculptures

Together with the Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building, both well known for their ornate decoration both inside and out, they are collectively referred to as the three graces, a grouping of iconic buildings from the late 19th and early 20th century that have transformed the Liverpool waterfront.

Looking at it today, it’s hard to imagine that this section of waterfront was the George’s Dock throughout most of the 1800’s when it served as a roundup area for the city’s busy trans-Atlantic shipping industry. Moorings, docks, and ships have been replaced by open spaces,  modern art, and a couple amazing museums. This drastic change over the past century has largely contributed to the UNESCO World heritage Status of this part of town.

The Pier Head waterfront is a mix of architectural styles, building materials, and layers of Liverpool’s history

The Port of Liverpool Building is known for its ornate details both inside and out

A short walk from Pier’s head takes you past the amazing Museum of Liverpool, where any question you could ever think up is answered) to Albert Dock, probably our favourite place in the city. Another region where drastic restoration and repurposing has taken effect, this is the cultural heart of the city. The brick and iron buildings and warehouses have been transformed into some of the most interesting and innovative museums in all the UK – most notably the Maritime Museum and TATE Liverpool.

Perfectly restored ships line the interior of the dock as part of the Maritime Museum’s displays, fish and chip shops hawk the fresh catch of the day, and people mull around searching for the perfect Beatles trinket – this is the perfect place since the newly constructed Beatles museum is just around the corner.

We spent almost an entire day wandering around the waterfront of Liverpool – it’s just that fantastic. Walking among the old ships, exploring crazy art in TATE, and playing Beatles themed I Spy all contributed to the surprise Liverpool handed us.

A tall ship in the Albert Docks

Albert Dock and the Tate Museum

Liverpool is peppered with these Superlambanana sculptures

Once you’ve had enough walking around and can’t possibly bear another minute in a museum, the perfect place to head is Liverpool One – one of the UK’s premier shopping centres. With hundreds of shops and countless restaurants, this is the perfect place to pick up a bite to eat and a football scarf or jersey before heading to see some live music or a football match.

And that’s exactly what we did. As our tradition dictates, we ended our final night of this trip with a meal at Nando’s – not exactly our typical scene but it’s tradition! With our bellies full, we headed off to a final football match. And that’s where everything went all screwy…but you’ll have to read about that in our next post!!

Looking out onto Pier Head from our hotel room as the rain falls and the sun sets

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One of Glasgow’s main shopping streets

Glasgow may have a reputation for being a bit scruffy, one it’s earned from decades as Scotland’s main industrial centre (and likely a few soccer squabbles as well),, but that has all changed in recent years. Glasgow has been transformed. Today the city is recognized as a European City of Culture, City of Sport, and a UNESCO City of Music – all of which have helped to elevate Glasgow to one of the most visited cities in the British Isles. During our time in Glasgow, we discovered a city crammed full of delicious eateries, intriguing cultural sights, and some of the best shopping north of London – as well as a city excessively passionate about it’s sporting rivalries.

The Big Wheel at George Square

While Edinburgh, and cities of the like (think Venice or Dubrovnik), may have wowed us with charm and beauty, at times they also felt somewhat contrived – a spotless facade of gimmicky tourist shops, overpriced organized tours, and an eerie lack of any actual locals, meant to shield us from the city itself. But not in Glasgow!

As a newly minted centre for tourism and culture, Glasgow doesn’t try to misrepresent itself in any way, instead allowing visitors the experience of a city that is one hundred percent authentic. The city is a hodgepodge of architectural styles, construction sites, and revitalization efforts – a feature only enhanced by the impending Commonwealth Games. However, for those able to look past Glasgow’s somewhat bland exterior, an appreciation for the city comes so easily. Glasgow, much like your favorite watering hole, is a place to be enjoyed from the inside. It’s a place focusing on what really matters in life – good food, good drink, good sport, and good music!

Strolling around downtown Glasgow

Visitors to Glasgow may be surprised to find a complete lack of Michelin Star restaurants lining the city’s streets, especially considering the array of celebrity chefs that call the city home – Gordon Ramsay being the most famous. But maybe this absence of pomp is for the best – what you can find there is so much better. Voted the Curry Capital of Britain in 2002, 2005, 2006, and most recently in 2010, Glasgow is full of incredible Indian Restaurants and is the disputed birthplace of the ever-popular curry dish Chicken Tikka Masala. The culinary delights don’t stop there. Those looking for a less exotic fare can enjoy traditional Scottish favorites and some of the best Fish and Chips at any of the countless homey restaurants throughout the city.

Filling our bellies at the aptly named Burger Meats Bun

Initiation into the world of soccer begins at a young age here

Although our time in Glasgow was short – only three days – we managed to take in not one but two soccer matches during our visit. Catching local teams Rangers and Celtic at their respective home stadiums, we were able to see both sides of Glasgow’s deep-rooted and passionate soccer rivalry, one that appears to be ingrained in the city’s inhabitants at birth.

To say our time in Glasgow was hectic would be an understatement, however even with all our running around and late nights spent cheering amongst a boisterous crowd at the soccer pitch, we weren’t able to see everything Glasgow has to offer. Perhaps the aspect we were most disappointed to have missed was the world-renowned music scene that Glasgow offers.  So many amazing bands have been discovered there – from Oasis to Kurt Cobain to the Fratellis, Chvrches, Franz Ferdinand, and Snow Patrol.

A charming store in the downtown core

When it came to choosing our accommodation in Glasgow, we opted to use Air B&B and found a wonderful couple that not only welcomed us into their home but also imparted upon us an incredible array of information about their beloved city. What we subsequently learned about Glasgow’s rough reputation (it’s not as abrasive as outsiders would have you believe) and its points of pride (it’s home to the region’s best dining and shopping), was incredibly eyeopening. While there may be plenty of preconceived notions about Glasgow floating around the travel community (and the UK in general) after spending some time in the city it’s clear to us that Glasgow simply is what it is. For better or worse Glasgow bears many labels – all of which are well-earned.

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Edinburgh’s stunning Royal Mile

The classic stone architecture one would expect with Edinburgh Castle in the background

As the third generation of my family born in Canada, I’ve never considered myself anything other than fully Canadian, and although the Duncan surname is still as Scottish as the day my great-grandfather Duncan immigrated from Scotland, I had never put much thought into my own genealogy (besides constructing a family tree in fifth grade). However strolling along Edinburgh’s cobblestone streets I couldn’t help but wonder about these ancestors for which I share a common bloodline. Who were they? What were their lives like? Did they too suffer from a nearly constant need for validation and prefer salty to sweet for their go-to movie theater snack?

Although I’m sure that the movie theater snacking dilemma is a relatively new struggle, delving into ones heritage, it feels impossible not to wonder what characteristics you share with the family members that came before. There is something deliciously enticing about discovering where you come from, of which I was far from immune.

Colourful storefronts add a cheerful feeling to the dark stone buildings

The view of Edinburgh Castle from the valley below

One of many vantage points in the city that offer spectacular views

One sunny afternoon, while walking through a cemetery at the foot of Edinburgh Castle, I stumbled onto a gravestone marked with the surname Duncan. Although I hadn’t been looking for it, the name jumped off the moss-covered slab and I couldn’t help but wonder if I’d found one of my own, with whom I perhaps shared a propensity for being near the water or a fondness for the smell of the Earth after a rainstorm.

Are you my ancestors?

More stunning views – looking out onto the city’s core

A storm rolling in while we look out over the city from the National Museum of Scotland

Walking around Edinburgh, marveling at the city around me, I felt myself began to swell with pride. Although not my hometown or birthplace, I immediately felt a deep connection with Edinburgh and I couldn’t help but gush with pride at how truly remarkable the city is. We’ve been fortunate to visit a lot of incredibly beautiful cities during our time in Europe, including many of the world’s most attractive and popular destinations (Copenhagen, Budapest, and Prague immediately come to mind) and after walking around Edinburgh for only a few hours we were already prepared to add it to this list.

It’s impossible to ignore Edinburgh’s beauty

One of the prettiest gravestones I’ve ever seen

Although I’m sure many visitors will find fault with certain aspects of the city. It is overly touristy (I can foresee the crowds being practically unbearable during the peak summer season) and as a result of all this tourism prices are ridiculously inflated, even compared to other parts of Scotland and the UK. Furthermore, the city isn’t known for it’s famous culinary scene like nearby Glasgow and can’t boast a mind-blowing cultural scene like Liverpool, another city we visited while in the UK. However I’m willing to accept these flaws as minor aspects of one hell of a great overall package – after all, that’s what you do when you fall in love with someone, something, or somewhere.

Until next time, Edinburgh

For me, Edinburgh felt in some ways like coming home after a long absence. After a few hours sleep and a good meal everything easily falls back into place and you can’t help but feel comfortable, a feeling that can be hard to replicate while traveling. Unfortunately our visit, like most, wasn’t nearly long enough. However leaving Edinburgh, I knew I was carrying a part of the city onwards with me, and now that we’ve returned home I have a little ember glowing on deep inside still wondering about my ancestors and their stories. While I may or may not share a bloodline with Anne Avery and Thomas Duncan from the tombstone I stumbled onto during our visit, I have roots in Edinburgh and I can’t wait to return one day and retrace them.

The post Edinburgh Runs Through My Veins appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

In a modern world full of fancy camera lens filters and post-processing filter options, I found the idea of a hand’s on DIY filter version appealing. Unfortunately, I struggled to make time to experiment with different objects while simultaneously taking more-traditional pictures for the blog. After all, we need to be able to show the places we talk about here and a post full of artistic or experimental shots doesn’t really meet this requirement.

However, during our stay in Liverpool we found ourselves living large on the seventh floor of a downtown hotel in a room that consisted of two stunning walls of enormous windows. Not only was the view breathtaking from this vantage point, but when a gruesome storm rolled into town on our second day in the city, the windows provided a great opportunity to play around photographing through the raindrops and onto the buildings below.

The end result is a blurry outline of downtown Liverpool at sunset, with the raindrops and condensation of the foreground in focus. In all honesty, this picture feels more like Liverpool to me than any of the others I shot during our visit. Cold, out of focus, a bit disjointed, yet with a hint of brilliant colour and a feeling of hope – looking at this picture takes me back to the UK immediately.

Although I could have added most of the effects in this shot using post-processing software like Photoshop, I had so much more fun using the window as a filter and playing around with the angles and my camera settings. This is definitely a form of photography I hope to continue to work with in the future!

For more examples of real world filters, check out this Pinterest board by freelance writer Mike Sowden!

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A black cab sits in front of the famous Bittles Bar

There’s something to be said about walking – or in this case driving – in the steps of history. While exploring the glass-encased treasures of a museum can be both enjoyable and informative, there is something that resonates deep within you after actually being there. Whether walking through the “tunnel of hope” in Sarajevo, alongside graffiti covered portions of the crumbling Berlin Wall, or encircling the gigantic megaliths of Stonehenge, there is a special kind of magic that comes from witnessing a site face to face.

To really grasp Belfast’s turbulent history, there is no better way than to jump headfirst into the neighbourhoods and back alleys central to the conflict, while riding along comfortable in the backseat of a traditional Black Cab.

Our (White) Black Cab with some of the city’s many murals in the background

Playing a critical role in transporting civilians during The Troubles, the Black Cabs were the only way for people to navigate the barricades and road blocks that were commonplace throughout the city. If a road was blocked the cabs used side streets. They drove over the rubble results of riots, avoided army checkpoints, and along footpaths, in an effort to deliver people up and down the Falls Road, to Andersontown, and Whiterock. The cabs were frequently crammed with up to 8 people at a time, six in the back and two up front, strangers forced together by the common need to get around the city.

The cab drivers got people to work and allowed people to visit their families – they were an essential service in an unimaginable time. This importance, however, also led them to being one of the prime targets of gunmen and hitsquads. In all, 8 drivers lost their lives, while many more were injured, arrested, or harassed on an almost daily basis. Today, these same cabs transport people around some of the once dangerous regions of the city to see the murals and monuments that commemorate the Troubles.

Murals can be found all over the city

After climbing into our own personal Black Cab, our guide Tom introduced us to the Belfast of 30 years ago – a war zone of sectarian and political violence, frequent bombings, and innocent civilians caught in the crossfire – a far cry from today’s vibrant city. As we wove through small side streets lined with red brick row-houses, Tom regaled us with stories that both amazed and horrified us. Stories of being dragged out of his home as a teenager in the middle of the night to be questioned for days, stories of being searched 5, 6, 7 times a day, stories or carbombs and fistfights with army officers – it was hard to imagine any of this happening in the present day city we were witnessing.

The real stars of the show on a black cab tour, however, are the murals. Painted to commemorate events or persons involved in the history of the region, particularly during the Troubles, the murals also show the remaining divide between republican and loyalist groups in Northern Ireland. With many of the enormous murals honoring members of the hit-squads and commemorating the killing of innocent civilians, we struggled to understand how they can even be allowed to remain in a city trying desperately to recover from the horrific events of decades prior.

The man depicted in this mural was murdered during the conflict, his widow still lives in the house on the far left

A mural to Stevie “TopGun” McKeag – Commander for the Ulster Defense Association and responsible for at least 9 known murders of rival IRA members and innocent Catholic civilians

While the decision to keep or remove the murals is the centre of much bureaucratic debate, the paintings are an integral part of exploring Belfast’s history and help shed light on the deep riff that evolved between the people of Northern Ireland. Further evidence of the ground Northern Ireland still has to make up in becoming whole again are the 99 barriers known as “peace walls” that separate Protestant and Catholic neighbourhoods in the city. The walls (and gated roadways), which combine to cover 34 kilometers and reach 7.5 meters at their tallest points, will only come down when the communities they surround agree they should be removed, a consensus the people of Northern Ireland are not yet ready to reach in most cases.

A section of the graffiti covered “peace walls”

While Belfast is steeped in a rich and turbulent history, the city of today is vibrant, modern, and growing. The city is also a wonderful destination for travelers looking for something different in the British Isles, offering intrepid travelers the chance to see the city before it becomes the focus of every travel guide and must-see list.

We were able to sign the wall and opted to keep it simple with just our first names

Logistics: We used Paddy Campbell’s Belfast Famous Black Cab Tours for our excursion through Belfast and couldn’t have been happier. However for those who can’t prebook, tours can be arranged at the taxi stall across from the City Hall. Alternatively, if a ride in a traditional cab is all you’re looking for, Black Cabs can be hailed along the Falls Road, just tap the window when you want to get out and then pay the driver through the front side window.

The post If These Walls Could Talk – A Black Cab Tour in Belfast appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

Our trip to Belfast had been spur-of-the-moment. From Malta we had limited options as to where we could fly for a non-budget-busting price – the UK was pretty much our only choice. To be honest, we had not really planned on visiting Ireland or the UK on this trip, but when a 20 Euro flight to Belfast popped up we booked it immediately.

Belfast is not a city that regularly features on bucket lists – a phenomenon mainly due to lingering images from times past rather than current conditions. To most, the city’s name conjures up images of carbombs, shootings, and other fleeting images of overtly sectarian and political violence. Even a decade or two ago, these occurrences were commonplace, creating a literal warzone, and making Belfast a no-go for tourism.

Murals can be found all over the city commemorating The Troubles

Thankfully, this has all changed in recent years. Belfast is a now a thriving and bustling city committed to shattering these preconceived notions and embracing what makes the city unique – its history. From the Troubles to the Titanic, this is a city long plagued by tragedy. But it is this precise aspect that has laid the fabric for what the city is today, a city where you’re greeted with a smile and a joke every place you go.

Wonderful architecture, a vibrant city center, top-class shopping and dining experiences, and a revitalized waterfront are all contributing to make the city a rising star. As of now, Belfast still feels like a hidden gem and is nicely positioned off the well-worn tourist trail that cross-crosses much of Europe and the British Isles. But with rapid regeneration projects, easy access to the stunning North Atlantic Coast (including the world famous Giant’s Causeway), and easy access via budget airline carriers, Belfast likely won’t stay secret for long.

Graffiti down one of Belfast’s back streets

With a clear void of information regarding Belfast in the travel blogging community, we have decided to provide an outline on how best to spend your time in the city, what aspects we enjoyed, and some must see sites.

Black Cab Tour

For a memorable introduction the history of The Troubles of Belfast and Northern Ireland a Black Cab Tour is a must. Not only will the tour allow you to see parts of Belfast you’ll never find on your own, but each private tour is led by a guide who experienced The Troubles firsthand. Tours take place in real black cabs, a form of transportation which arose out of necessity during the periods of conflict and played an integral role in transporting residents during these turbulent years. We had an immensely rewarding experience on our tour – so much so that we are going to write about it separately.

Numerous Black Cab Tours are available in Belfast, and they all tend to cost around 30 pounds for up to five people. They last approximately 2 hours and each driver tailors their own route and stops – however they are always more than happy to alter the route if there is something specific you want to see.

Our (White) Black Cab

The City Centre

Belfast’s city centre is absolutely teeming with life – a far cry from times past. Beginning with  the spectacular City Hall, you can easily spend hours simply wandering the lively streets that radiate out from Donegall Square to the Cathedral Quarter or the River Lagan. Some fantastic examples of Edwardian and High Victorian Architecture can be found in this part of the city. For a city of it’s size, Belfast has some truly stunning buildings and the architecture here is extremely different from anywhere else in the region.

The stunning City Hall

If you’re in Belfast on a Friday, Saturday, or Sunday and looking for something different, you can head down to St. George’s Market. Built in the late 19th century, the market was recently voted the best in the UK and is one of the finest architectural jewels in the city.

Belfast City Hall is free to enter, and they even offer guided tours. This is also where you can find the main bus/train station, tourist office, shared taxi ranks, and many local buses.

The city has some lovely pedestrian streets

A black cab sits in front of the famous Bittles Bar

Victoria Square Shopping Centre

As you explore the main downtown arteries, keep an eye out for Victoria Square, a sparkling new shopping complex right in the heart of the city centre. While the shopping here appears to be quite good, the real reason for visiting this modern complex is the stunning views from the glass domed roof on top of the building. Closely resembling the glass dome at the Reichstag in Berlin, on a clear day it’s possible to see the Albert Memorial Clock, City Hall, the Courts of Justice, numerous church spires, and even across to the Titanic Quarter.

Victoria Square is open every day and has nearly every shop you can imagine. There are also tons of food options and a cinema. Access to the viewing dome is FREE, and there also appears to be an attendant that can help answer questions, point out specific landmarks, or snap a photo of you – they even offer guided tours! 

The view from the glass dome with the Albert Memorial Clock in the foreground

Cathedral Quarter

After you’ve got your fill of sight-seeing and shopping, the best place to get some good food and drink (or “good craic” as the locals would put it) is the Cathedral Quarter. The neighbourhood, which radiates out from St. Anne’s Cathedral, has been revitalized over recent years and now reigns as the cultural and gastronomical heart of the city. Almost all of the best pubs and restaurants in the city can be found here – many offering live music and good value meals.

Meals at a reasonably priced restaurant in Belfast will normally set you back a good 10-15 pounds or more at dinnertime. The secret to eating out in Belfast is to take advantage of the amazing lunch Specials that can be found in nearly every restaurant – many of which offer BYOB to keep costs down ever more. We usually ate at a restaurant for lunch and then had a takeaway (4-8 pounds) for dinner.

St. Anne’s Cathedral

Titanic Quarter

One of the most interesting ways to spend part of a day in Belfast is to explore the Titanic Quarter. “She was alright when she left here” reads the sign that greets you as you make your way into the very place where the RMS Titanic and her sister ships were built and launched. The River Lagan separates the rest of the city centre from this district, which was once occupied by the Harland and Wolff Shipyard. Nowadays, the Titanic Quarter is one of the biggest regions of redevelopment in all of Europe – the brand new Titanic Exhibit sparkles in the sunlight, the SS Nomadic and HMS Caroline sit in dry dock, the monstrous yellow gantry cranes Samson and Goliath tower above, and modern new condos and shops give the district a vibrant feel.

The sparkling new Titanic Belfast exhibit

Samson and Goliath tower above all else

The real star of the show in the Titanic Quarter is undoubtedly the brand new Titanic Belfast museum. This futuristic building, built to the same height as the Titanic and (supposedly) in the shape of an iceberg, houses exhibits chronicling the construction and fate of the most famous ship in the world. Even if you don’t want to pay the enter the exhibit (which is pretty pricey in our opinion at 14.75 pounds), you can still admire the building both inside and outside or take a peek at the gift shop.

The easiest way to get to the Titanic Quarter is over the pedestrian bridge that crosses the River Lagan. More info on Titanic Belfast and the other things to do in the area can be found on their website.

One of the many harbours along the River Lagan

The restored Titanic Drawing offices where the ships were designed

A City Break

For those with an extra day in Belfast, you will definitely want to take a daytrip to the Giant’s Causeway – Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site. Whether done by car or by tour, the drive along the North Atlantic Coast is one of the most breathtaking we’ve ever seen and is definitely a must see! We will be writing a post about our trip here so stay tuned.

A couple tour companies offer tours to the Giant’s Causeway (plus a number of other interesting stops along the way). They are priced around 20 pounds and take a full day. They include entry to the site at the Causeway and are pretty good value.

The “Big Fish” along the River Lagan

We thoroughly and unexpectedly enjoyed our time in Belfast. In many ways the city reminded us of our time in Sarajevo – another city ripped apart by politics and religion. In similar fashion, the incredibly resilient people that call this city home seem to be healing the wounds that were torn open so recently, and attempting to move forward. Currently 48 walls separating Protestant and Catholic communities still exist and many roads connecting these communities are still gated at night, but it felt to us like the “real walls” are starting to come down. Hopefully forever.

Logistics: The entire city centre can be explored very easily on foot. If it’s raining, you don’t feel like walking, or you are staying outside the centre, Belfast had a very efficient bus system (just tell the driver where you’re going and he’ll tell you how much the fare is). Alternatively, many shared taxis (black cabs) drive the main routes and will stop if you flag them down. Just knock on the glass when you need to get out and then pay (1.30 when we were there) through the passenger side window. This service helped people get around during the troubles (when buses were to dangerous to use) and continue to operate to this day – definitely a unique Belfast experience! If you need to store luggage, the Belfast Welcome Centre can do this for you for 4 pounds. It’s also a great place to get maps, info on tours, souvenirs, etc.

The post Belfast Visitor’s Guide – What to See and Do appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

The first 6 days of our time on the island will be spent in Northern Ireland. Our original plans did not include a stop in Northern Ireland, but after finding an amazing deal from Malta to Belfast, we figured we should take the opportunity to try something new and be a bit more spontaneous.

The amazing city hall in Belfast.

Traditionally known more for the “Troubles” than tourism, Belfast and the other amazing parts of this small region of Ireland are beginning to register on more than a few itineraries, and we are very excited to see what this area has to offer. From the Giant’s Causeway to a Black Cab tour of Belfast to a wander around “Free Derry” – we are expecting to have an absolute blast. Now if only the weather will cooperate…

The UNESCO listed Giant’s Causeway

Have you ever traveled to Northern Ireland? What should we be sure to see? Let us know in the comments!

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As the only British city to be regarded in its entirety as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Bath is undoubtedly one of the most historically important and interesting cities in all of the UK. Originally settled as a Roman resort called “Aquae Sulis” due to the presence of the world famous thermal springs located there, today Bath is a thriving resort town, and one of the most popular tourist spots in the country.

The Roman Baths (via)

The Roman Baths are undoubtedly the main attraction to most of the 4 million people that make the 1.5 hour trip from London. First noticed by the Romans and then made popular once again under Stuart and Georgian rule for their supposed healing properties, Bath became one of the in-style destinations for the British upper class and has remained so to this day. But the Roman Baths are not all that Bath has to offer.

The Royal Crescent (via)

Some of the beautiful green space in Bath

Given its UNESCO World Heritage Site status, it should not be surprising that the city offers more than just the baths. A fantastic Abbey, some of the best examples of Georgian Architecture in all of England, one of only four store-lined bridges in the world, great parks, wonderful shopping, and a fantastic rugby team all await visitors to the City of Bath.

The entrance to Bath Abbey

 

As we only had a day to explore the city, we decided to use some of the experience that we had gathered on our trip and utilize the free walking tour of Bath provided by the Mayor of Bath’s Corps of Honorary Guides. These guides, many of which are retirees with extensive knowledge of the city, provide free (really free – like no-tips-allowed-free) approximately 2 hour walking tours of the major sites of Bath.

The Pulteney Bridge – one of only four shop-lined bridges in the world

Unfortunately for us it was pouring rain the day we visited, but our guide made the best of it and we spent as much time as we could under cover. We learned about the history of the Roman Baths and the early settlement of the city, how Jane Austen ties into the city, the different architectural styles of the city’s neighbourhoods, and many more interesting facts. We even saw Nicolas Cage’s house.

The River Avon and the Pulteney Bridge (via)

Even though we got soaked all day long, Bath still was a fascinating city to visit and well worth the time. It is easy to get to via train from London (and the station is right in the center of town), and is compact enough to be explored by foot in a day or two.

The post Bath – A City of History appeared first on Have Blog Will Travel.

The remains of the Motte-and-bailey castle defences.

The ridge running around is covered in chalk

What remains of Old Sarum today is a castle motte, complete with part of the original stone walls and the remnants of the massive ditch surrounding the site.The foundations of many of the walls of the fort and castle, as well as the cathedral outside the castle walls, are still intact today and visitors are free to walk amongst the ruins.

The remains of the iron age fort and subsequent castle

After a short hike to the top, we were impressed by the seeming impenetrability of the fort. Even as it lay in ruins, nearly two thousand years since it was last inhabited, the enormous banks and ditches that surround the fort stand as evidence of it’s once strategic military presence. The River Avon flows just a few hundred feet away, and the spire of Salisbury Cathedral can be seen in the distance.

The remains of the old Cathedral at Old Sarum

We spent a good hour exploring the site and admiring the fantastic views. There were a good number of people going for walks along the Avon and playing football in the park nearby.As it looked like a nice day, we decided to take the popular walk from Old Sarum back to Salisbury…poor choice. The British winter crept up on us about halfway through the 30 minute walk and we were swept up in a torrential rainstorm not unlike the one we experienced in Kotor. Despite this minor wet setback, we ended up having a fabulous time visiting both Stonehenge and Old Sarum, and would definitely recommend a visit if you have the time.

The view to town with Salisbury Cathedral – look at that inviting sky!

 

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The iconic stones of Stonehenge in all their glory

With a few days in the UK before our flight home, we decided to leave London for the quiet countryside of Wiltshire county. But the beauty of the surrounding rolling hills and idyllic towns were only a part of the attraction – the real appeal was the allure of Stonehenge. Famous for it’s enormous rocks, and how little historians have been able to unearth about it’s purpose, Stonehenge is a enchantingly beautiful sight still brimming with mystery and intrigue.

As life in the English countryside is much slower than that of London, we found bus service between towns, and to Stonehenge, a bit hit or miss. Unfortunately the public bus route serving the site was cancelled last year leaving only two options to reach Stonehenge without a rental car – catch a public bus to nearby Amesbury and walk two miles to the site, or board the Stonehenge tourist bus in Salisbury (where we were staying) for a direct trip to the site and optional return stop at Old Sarum.

The sight as you enter the grounds.

Although we normally try to avoid tour groups by any means necessary, after a warning from our B&B owner that tourists have been killed walking along the winding road from Amesbury to Stonehenge, we decided to cough up the twenty pound/person fee for the tourist bus (this fee does include admission to Stonehenge and Old Sarum as well as front of the line access).

As it turns out, the bus was actually quite enjoyable, although a bit pricier than we would have preferred, and the audio track that played through the speakers was more informative than annoying.

The size of the stones is amazing once you get up close – over 24 feet tall in some cases.

The site’s visitor centre isn’t what you’d picture for an attraction as important and well visited as Stonehenge, especially after visits to comparable ancient sites like the Acropolis, Alhambra, or Colosseum. With only a small ticket window, gift shop, and portable lavatories on the side of a two lane country road, the site is functional and understated, fitting in perfectly with the quaint countryside. However rustic it may be, what the facilities lack in size and grandeur the stones more than make up for.

As you pass under the road and finally enter the site, you are immediately entranced by the stones. A haunting and ethereal echo of days long since forgotten, the massive stones rise in majesty and stimulate even the most meager of imaginations. Theories abound regarding their construction and purpose – some sane and some gleefully insane. Whatever you believe to be true, no one can deny the massive effort it must have taken to transport and erect the stones.

The “Heelstone” sits just outside the circle

While you can walk in and amongst the stones if you make special arrangement, the vast majority of visitors just take the short circular pathway around the stones – a thoroughly satisfying experience in its own right. The audioguide given to you for free upon entrance enhances the experience with fascinating facts about the mysterious and storied history of the site.

A marker showing the location of one of the original wooden posts from the original henge

One of the many burial mounds scattered around the region

There’s just something about Stonehenge that lures people to it…not unlike the Pyramids or the Colosseum. It’s got the right combination of mystery, intrigue, and extravagant speculation that just make it a must see. The site itself is not what you’d expect (although I think that’s a good thing), but the aura of seeing something that people still don’t fully understand is definitely an uncommon experience and one that you won”t forget.

Logistics: While the site of Stonehenge is undoubtedly the main reason that people venture to England’s West Country, it should be noted that it is not the only neolithic site in the region. In fact, this particular region of the country is one of the most dense when it comes to neolithic sites. If Stonehenge managed to intrigue you, and you want to see something else, check out the henge at Avebury, Woodhenge, the Durrington Walls, or even Old Sarum.

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