One of Glasgow’s main shopping streets

Glasgow may have a reputation for being a bit scruffy, one it’s earned from decades as Scotland’s main industrial centre (and likely a few soccer squabbles as well),, but that has all changed in recent years. Glasgow has been transformed. Today the city is recognized as a European City of Culture, City of Sport, and a UNESCO City of Music – all of which have helped to elevate Glasgow to one of the most visited cities in the British Isles. During our time in Glasgow, we discovered a city crammed full of delicious eateries, intriguing cultural sights, and some of the best shopping north of London – as well as a city excessively passionate about it’s sporting rivalries.

The Big Wheel at George Square

While Edinburgh, and cities of the like (think Venice or Dubrovnik), may have wowed us with charm and beauty, at times they also felt somewhat contrived – a spotless facade of gimmicky tourist shops, overpriced organized tours, and an eerie lack of any actual locals, meant to shield us from the city itself. But not in Glasgow!

As a newly minted centre for tourism and culture, Glasgow doesn’t try to misrepresent itself in any way, instead allowing visitors the experience of a city that is one hundred percent authentic. The city is a hodgepodge of architectural styles, construction sites, and revitalization efforts – a feature only enhanced by the impending Commonwealth Games. However, for those able to look past Glasgow’s somewhat bland exterior, an appreciation for the city comes so easily. Glasgow, much like your favorite watering hole, is a place to be enjoyed from the inside. It’s a place focusing on what really matters in life – good food, good drink, good sport, and good music!

Strolling around downtown Glasgow

Visitors to Glasgow may be surprised to find a complete lack of Michelin Star restaurants lining the city’s streets, especially considering the array of celebrity chefs that call the city home – Gordon Ramsay being the most famous. But maybe this absence of pomp is for the best – what you can find there is so much better. Voted the Curry Capital of Britain in 2002, 2005, 2006, and most recently in 2010, Glasgow is full of incredible Indian Restaurants and is the disputed birthplace of the ever-popular curry dish Chicken Tikka Masala. The culinary delights don’t stop there. Those looking for a less exotic fare can enjoy traditional Scottish favorites and some of the best Fish and Chips at any of the countless homey restaurants throughout the city.

Filling our bellies at the aptly named Burger Meats Bun

Initiation into the world of soccer begins at a young age here

Although our time in Glasgow was short – only three days – we managed to take in not one but two soccer matches during our visit. Catching local teams Rangers and Celtic at their respective home stadiums, we were able to see both sides of Glasgow’s deep-rooted and passionate soccer rivalry, one that appears to be ingrained in the city’s inhabitants at birth.

To say our time in Glasgow was hectic would be an understatement, however even with all our running around and late nights spent cheering amongst a boisterous crowd at the soccer pitch, we weren’t able to see everything Glasgow has to offer. Perhaps the aspect we were most disappointed to have missed was the world-renowned music scene that Glasgow offers.  So many amazing bands have been discovered there – from Oasis to Kurt Cobain to the Fratellis, Chvrches, Franz Ferdinand, and Snow Patrol.

A charming store in the downtown core

When it came to choosing our accommodation in Glasgow, we opted to use Air B&B and found a wonderful couple that not only welcomed us into their home but also imparted upon us an incredible array of information about their beloved city. What we subsequently learned about Glasgow’s rough reputation (it’s not as abrasive as outsiders would have you believe) and its points of pride (it’s home to the region’s best dining and shopping), was incredibly eyeopening. While there may be plenty of preconceived notions about Glasgow floating around the travel community (and the UK in general) after spending some time in the city it’s clear to us that Glasgow simply is what it is. For better or worse Glasgow bears many labels – all of which are well-earned.

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Edinburgh’s stunning Royal Mile

The classic stone architecture one would expect with Edinburgh Castle in the background

As the third generation of my family born in Canada, I’ve never considered myself anything other than fully Canadian, and although the Duncan surname is still as Scottish as the day my great-grandfather Duncan immigrated from Scotland, I had never put much thought into my own genealogy (besides constructing a family tree in fifth grade). However strolling along Edinburgh’s cobblestone streets I couldn’t help but wonder about these ancestors for which I share a common bloodline. Who were they? What were their lives like? Did they too suffer from a nearly constant need for validation and prefer salty to sweet for their go-to movie theater snack?

Although I’m sure that the movie theater snacking dilemma is a relatively new struggle, delving into ones heritage, it feels impossible not to wonder what characteristics you share with the family members that came before. There is something deliciously enticing about discovering where you come from, of which I was far from immune.

Colourful storefronts add a cheerful feeling to the dark stone buildings

The view of Edinburgh Castle from the valley below

One of many vantage points in the city that offer spectacular views

One sunny afternoon, while walking through a cemetery at the foot of Edinburgh Castle, I stumbled onto a gravestone marked with the surname Duncan. Although I hadn’t been looking for it, the name jumped off the moss-covered slab and I couldn’t help but wonder if I’d found one of my own, with whom I perhaps shared a propensity for being near the water or a fondness for the smell of the Earth after a rainstorm.

Are you my ancestors?

More stunning views – looking out onto the city’s core

A storm rolling in while we look out over the city from the National Museum of Scotland

Walking around Edinburgh, marveling at the city around me, I felt myself began to swell with pride. Although not my hometown or birthplace, I immediately felt a deep connection with Edinburgh and I couldn’t help but gush with pride at how truly remarkable the city is. We’ve been fortunate to visit a lot of incredibly beautiful cities during our time in Europe, including many of the world’s most attractive and popular destinations (Copenhagen, Budapest, and Prague immediately come to mind) and after walking around Edinburgh for only a few hours we were already prepared to add it to this list.

It’s impossible to ignore Edinburgh’s beauty

One of the prettiest gravestones I’ve ever seen

Although I’m sure many visitors will find fault with certain aspects of the city. It is overly touristy (I can foresee the crowds being practically unbearable during the peak summer season) and as a result of all this tourism prices are ridiculously inflated, even compared to other parts of Scotland and the UK. Furthermore, the city isn’t known for it’s famous culinary scene like nearby Glasgow and can’t boast a mind-blowing cultural scene like Liverpool, another city we visited while in the UK. However I’m willing to accept these flaws as minor aspects of one hell of a great overall package – after all, that’s what you do when you fall in love with someone, something, or somewhere.

Until next time, Edinburgh

For me, Edinburgh felt in some ways like coming home after a long absence. After a few hours sleep and a good meal everything easily falls back into place and you can’t help but feel comfortable, a feeling that can be hard to replicate while traveling. Unfortunately our visit, like most, wasn’t nearly long enough. However leaving Edinburgh, I knew I was carrying a part of the city onwards with me, and now that we’ve returned home I have a little ember glowing on deep inside still wondering about my ancestors and their stories. While I may or may not share a bloodline with Anne Avery and Thomas Duncan from the tombstone I stumbled onto during our visit, I have roots in Edinburgh and I can’t wait to return one day and retrace them.

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