Gdansk – A City of History
Although we spent much of our time in Gdansk just wandering through the restored old town and along the waterfront, marveling at the beautifully detailed houses, halls, and churches, we made sure we were able to delve into the long and tumultuous history of the city as well. This turbulent history is highlighted by two major events, the first of which occurred on on September 1, 1939 when Hitler’s Germany broke their day-old non-aggression pact with the Soviet Union. By shelling the small military base at Westerplatte, a mere 9.5 kilometers from the old town of Gdansk, Germany officially started the Second World War.
Soldiers graves and memorial at Westerplatte today.
The city of Gdansk was completely devastated during the war torn years that followed. As we walked around the old town, a number of photos and information boards displayed how streets and buildings looked when the fighting finally stopped in 1945. As the Polish people began returning to the city after many were forced out by the Nazis, they were confronted with a city that lay in ruins.
Gdansk in 1945 after the fighting had stopped
Reconstruction is still going on today
The reconstructed areas of the city are stunning!
It took artisans and architects until the mid 1960s to get the city reconstructed to pre-war condition, a feat made harder by the new Soviet Communist domination. Gdansk rose to be one of the major shipping and industrial centers of the Communist People’s Republic of Poland. Unfortunately, turbulence returned to Gdansk as citizens, upset with the rising food costs and stagnant wages under the Communist regime, began to demand change. On August 31, 1980, the Gdansk Shipyard became the birthplace of the Solidarity trade union movement, whose efforts started the wave that ultimately led to the end of Communist Party rule in 1989. The beginning of the Solidarity movement put the first cracks in the Iron Curtain. From December 13, 1981 to July 22, 1983, the government imposed a period of martial law in an attempt to crush political opposition. It is estimated that as many as 100 people were killed, and thousands of activists were interned without charge. Many of these political prisoners were not released until the general amnesty in 1986.
The Solidarity movement and the actions of the workers and leaders that led to the eventual fall of Communism throughout Central and Eastern Europe is a point of extreme pride for the people of Gdansk. Any time we talked to a resident, they were sure to mention it with a visible sense of pride. Nowhere is this more evident than in the excellent “Roads to Freedom” Exhibition. 
Set underground near the docks, the Exhibition outlines the events that happened both in Poland, and throughout neighbouring countries undergoing similar events. From the moment you walk in and a voice on the speakers overhead shouts for you to present your papers, to the jail cell used to hold political prisoners, to the videos and photos of the people that sacrificed their health and happiness, the message is always one of hope and perseverance.
A prison cell set in the exhibit
It was one of those museums where you just wanted to read every bit of paper on the wall. The story was so moving and powerful, it was hard not to get emotional. As we left the exhibit, we decided to walk along the docks and through some “real” neighbourhoods on the way back rather than back through the old town. We saw people just getting on with their lives – no one looked like they felt something was owed to them. Little did we know that the resilience of the Polish people would be a theme that we would experience again and again during our time here…
Flowers and flags at one of the docks
Our walk through some residential areas…fortunately no huge soviet buildings here
Logistics: The area of Westerplatte can be visited via ferries leaving from the waterfront (tourist ones close to the bride, and regular ones further from it). Times and prices seemed to vary, but the journey makes a couple of stops and takes around 30-45 minutes. Be sure to note departure times, although you can get back easily by bus as well!
The “Roads to Freedom” Exhibition is located on ul. Wały Piastowskie 24 (just a 10 minute walk from the old town). It costs 6 zloty per person (less than 2 bucks) – so there’s no reason not to do it! The exhibit is CLOSED on Mondays!